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By kansas - 11 Years Ago
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Some of you may remember I did a few posting on my 55 292 overheating last fall/I did all the things that a person should do new rad, fan shroud,6 blade fan,water pump, etc This has been going on sent I brought it
When I would do a temp check between top and bottom rad hose I would only have about a 10 to 15 degree drop well I finally got it fixed some one had put a 5 1/2 inch water pump pulley on the car when it should have been a 7 1/2 inch pulley Now I have a 35 to 40 degree drop between top and bottom hose So if your fighting overheating problems check that pulley some one may have put a small pulley on and that water is going through that rad way to fast
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By patm - 11 Years Ago
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Very interesting, an eye opener, thank you, Pat.
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By iowa fords - 11 Years Ago
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That's good feedback Thanks
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By yblock - 11 Years Ago
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verry good info,also the chance of cavitation is magnified when waterpump turned faster than it was desighned for,
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By Pete 55Tbird - 11 Years Ago
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I found an article that covers most of the overheating issues. This is all documented and actual data with no conjecture.
It covers a lot of ground. Pete
http://teae.org/cooling-the-tiger/
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By Meandean - 11 Years Ago
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Interesting read, Pete.
I particularly noted they showed no improvement by pinching off or reducing the bypass hose. This seems to be a favorite recommendation for Y-Blocks and I've done it too. Was wondering if anyone had significant improvements after doing that, and that alone.
I did not. Mine's a 55 Fairlane 272 Fordomatic.
I have purchased an aluminum radiator and 7 blade fan and will be installing them in the spring. Hoping for some improvement if not maybe a cure...
Mine gets quite hot, but not overheating on highway, but 10 minutes at idle and you're through the roof.
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By kansas - 11 Years Ago
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that test was a lot of work for them/lots of good info/I see that a 12 percent smaller fan pulley help a little bit/Im not sure what the percent would be going from a 7 1/4 to a 5 1/4 but I think it would be a lot more than 12 percent
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By rick55 - 11 Years Ago
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Thanks for taking the time to post that link, Pete.
It makes very good reading and offers solutions that would obviously work for our cars too.
It would suggest that the engine splash trays may also play a part in cooling by restricting airflow back to in front of the radiator at idle??
Thanks once again.
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By ian57tbird - 11 Years Ago
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Very interesting read!
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By lyonroad - 11 Years Ago
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kansas (3/17/2014)
that test was a lot of work for them/lots of good info/I see that a 12 percent smaller fan pulley help a little bit/Im not sure what the percent would be going from a 7 1/4 to a 5 1/4 but I think it would be a lot more than 12 percent
By my arithmetic a 2" reduction in pulley diameter would be almost 27%. (based o the 7.5 to 5.5 in your inital post). In this post you have specified 7.25 - 5.25. This would be over 28%.
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By Jimz Bird - 11 Years Ago
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License Plates and Hood Scoops.
Jack Jordan in Arizona put his 'Bird in a wind tunnel and found out the license plate deflected air over the hood and not into the engine compartment above 45 m.p.h. He also found that keeping the block off plate installed on the scoop allowed for better air flow in the engine compartment along with removing the R and L splash-guards from the lower rear of the engine compartment.
Just some more ideas while we are throwing them out.
http://www.arizonaclassicthunderbirds.org/files/Download/Keeping%20Thunderbirds%20Cool%20-%20Jordan.pdf
HTH
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By thundercat - 11 Years Ago
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So is the smaller pulley gain from the waterpump turning faster or is it the fan is turning faster or both ??
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By The Master Cylinder - 11 Years Ago
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Meandean (3/16/2014)
I particularly noted they showed no improvement by pinching off or reducing the bypass hose.
Maybe I missed something but the way I read it is they blocked the bypass off completely not just restricting it. "… eliminated the bypass hose from the thermostat housing to the water pump by squeezing the hose shut." I'm thinking that might be the difference. There's still quite a lot of water bypassing the thermostat when doing the Y-Block restricted bypass mod as suggested in these forums.
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By lyonroad - 11 Years Ago
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thundercat (3/17/2014)
So is the smaller pulley gain from the waterpump turning faster or is it the fan is turning faster or both ??
Both are turning faster, as the fan is mounted to the water pump pulley. According to the tests the faster turning fan more than compensates for the (sometimes) adverse affect of the faster turning pump; more air is better than more coolant flow. 12% faster seems to be the cutoff for their particular circumstance.
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By thundercat - 11 Years Ago
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So I take it then im running electric fan [322" Y block in 32 roadster] I should use the 7" [larger water pump pulley] ??
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By 2721955meteor - 11 Years Ago
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the lesson hear is by turning the water pump to fastand messing with the by pass is looking for a disaster. clean rad clean block good therm lots of air flow and proper shrouding no over heating. people should not try to re engineer a cooling system ,at least till they understand the dynamics. engine cold, water threw the bypass makes sure ther is proper flow threw block. as therm opens the combination of partial open therm and by pass sends some flow threw the rad buts ensures a constant flow threw the engine and No cavitation .when conditions arise that therm is wide openthe flowthrew the rad (clean rad) increases and air flow becomes the isue,pushing the water threw faster not a desired thing.with top tank and bottem ar within10degrees,you will still have a cool engine(to what the therm opens fulley) anycoser top to botem you will have over heating(aswell as acurate gauges, due to no cavitation) which renders temp gauges in acurate and hot spots in cylender heads
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By 56_Fairlane - 11 Years Ago
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I'm a little confused about this thread. The way I understand the OP is that he improved cooling by installing a larger pump pulley. Then I read the other posts and they say a smaller pulley is better. Which is correct?
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By lyonroad - 11 Years Ago
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I think the key finding with regard to pulley size is that a modest decrease is ok. 12% for the Sunbeam Tiger engine in the study. More than that and the decrease is a detriment.
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By GREENBIRD56 - 11 Years Ago
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I haven't visited much lately due to other concerns - and catching up has been a bit humorous. What I previously learned about cooling the 289 in my Cougar paid off with the 312 T-bird. T-birds have much too small of a radiator - and what I learned may or may not work for a '56 sedan but testing is easy and you learn a lot.............. If you don't believe the factory bypass flows a bit much for these Y engines - do a test - don't believe the talk here - do it yourself. Put a 5/8 line on the front of the intake from the bypass port - plug the hole to the water pump. Run the engine at idle, guide the output of the hose into the open radiator - and observe how much hot bypass water ordinarily short circuits the radiator and runs right back into the block. This simple test won't cause your engine to instantly destruct, believe me. This heat build-up is a constant thing - a nice warm-up function for Michigan - but it doesn't stop, it keeps adding heat back to the engine as long as the engine continues to operate. This raises the equilibrium temperature of the system. Changing the amount of constant bypass delays the warm-up - and adds flow through the radiator. Flow through the radiator always rejects heat so long as airflow is sufficient. If cold weather warm-up isn't a big issue.... it works fine, the thermostat still functions just as before, regulating the minimum temperature out of the block. If you have one of those tiny poppet style thermostats - this would be a good time to change it out.
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By 2721955meteor - 11 Years Ago
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the only isue with useing by pas water direct to the rad is no reserv in rad as water that is to circulat threw the engine goes to rad, and that over cooled water back to water punp. slow warmup in y is not good as lube to rockers is delayed,along with fuel econemy and performance. it also aproches running with no stat. the cooling system in the 1st y is no diferent than todays engines. the bypas helps keep the cylender heads cool, and eliminates cavitation. look at a 289-302 block 1/3 of the cylender has no watter. the main source of heat is the heads.again most over heating is pluged rad or eliminated fins ,re a leak. then air flow. then dirty block@ heads from lack of proper maintance. re the well done test, it looks to me air flow was the main isue,rvewing the larger pulley the same result would have bin larger fan placed corectly.2/3rds of fan should be in the shroud,deeper reduces eficencey, farther out the same. the tbird guy increased air flow .fan speed is crutal only at idel or low rpm,as in motion air flow is asisted with motion.flex fans are good ,but not original looking.most 55-57 birds had 4blade fans with auto trans, as air cooled auto trans needed helpand idel in gear did not help. if we studey the flat head ford we see a netorious heating problem in trafic,we also see no bypas. i did a test on a 47ford with overhault flat head,ran a coper line from rear of both heads to drain holes in water pumps. drilled and taped cyl heads at rear cured over heat. as therms wher in the rad hose at outlet and no circulation when closed. ys had a excelent cooling system when properly serviced. anothe of my boring rants. owned 2 55 birds, 1 with trans planted 312 2nb a warmed up 292 both newstyle holley 4vs and 57 distribs never got hot, 312 had 4blade fan 292 3 blade
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By DryLakesRacer - 11 Years Ago
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I went thru this with my '56 292 Victoria. Greenbirds suggestions have helped a lot. I put a plug in the bypass line and drilled a 1/8" hole in it. I used a Chrysler high flow thermostat (160*) . I found the factory plate which fit over the radiator which sealed to the hood; most all the air that went over it now all the air goes thru the radiator.(best thing I did)
30* difference from top to bottom on the rad. It actually takes a while for the thermostat to settle in and keep the temp needle still (10-15 miles). 3/4 on the gauge is right at 165 at the thermo neck. (heat sense gun). I try not to sit is traffic much even tho it has never gotten to the "H".
I read on this site or another one our worst enemy is this s--t they are calling gasoline. Here in SoCal probably has 10% ethanol so I add Stabil with every tank. I also installed a glass fuel filter just like the T-Birds so I see what the stuff looks like......Good Luck |