By Outlaw56 - 11 Years Ago
|
I now I asked this question several years ago but a search has not brought it back up for me. I have a 272 with manual transmission I would like to lift and put back in the truck. It will go in and out half a dozen times before Im finished. I have always removed two of the intake manifold bolts and hooked a chain to some grade 8 bolts (longer) and then lifted the motor in or out. I would like to make a couple brackets that hook to the intake thru the carb holes on the intake, but they are pretty small bolts. If I remember correctly, a lot of pre made brackets for removing engines bolt to the intake where the carb mounts (using four bolts). It just seems those bolts are a little on the small side to lift the entire engine and transmission using an engine hoist. I would appreciate some advise once again.
|
By pegleg - 11 Years Ago
|
Using all four bolts seems to work. Make sure all of the manifold to head bolts are in and tight. I usually pull the tranny first, it's easier to wiggle the engine out without damage to the vehicle.
|
By Hoosier Hurricane - 11 Years Ago
|
Hooking a chain in the center of the carb flange will leave the engine/trans assembly badly off balance, the trans end will be heavy. It works well if the engine alone is lifted.
|
By Rono - 11 Years Ago
|
Darrell;
My personal preference is to use an engine leveler at the end of your engine hoist chain. I bought a lifting plate, but never used it. If you are going to taking the engine in and out quite a bit, the leveler lets you position the motor (and tranny) at any angle you want. The leveler uses 4 mounting points, 2 up front and 2 at the back of the intake. I think it's an investment well worth the money.
Rono
|
By 2721955meteor - 11 Years Ago
|
use grade 8bolts and make sure they go in 1.5 tmes ther length and ar tight, then bolt a bracket on the bell housing to block on 1 of the upper bolts and get your comalong and a metal cable. this way you can tip the engine as you go in and out,keep the job cheap a you will need the cash down the road, with a truck you have more room than a car.
|
By paul2748 - 11 Years Ago
|
Using the four 5/16 bolts and a lift plate is safe. If you really want the job to go easy, there is a lift plate that has a tilt mechanism built in that makes the job much easier. If you are going in and out a few time with the trans, this unit is perfect. A little on the pricey side, but the time and aggravation it saves is worth it.
I just helped a guy that is installing a AOD behind a yblock in his early Bird with the trans attached and it had to go in and out a few times for fitting. He had one of these units and boy did it make it easier.
Those tilt devices on chains is like a model T ford compared to this unit.
Problem is, I can't remember the manufacturer. Try Google, engine tilt device, or something like that.
|
By miker - 11 Years Ago
|
I've used a tool like this many times, welding in motor mounts, new trans cross members, etc. If you doing it more than once, it's more than worth it. I think mine came from Eastwood, but this was the best picture.
http://www.ntxtools.com/network-tool-warehouse/SUN-5208.html
Even better with an air wrench on the lead screw.
|
By Rono - 11 Years Ago
|
That's the one I'm using.
Rono
|
By Outlaw56 - 11 Years Ago
|
Lots of good options. Thanks for all the good advise.
|
By paul2748 - 11 Years Ago
|
The one I mentioned is Mac's Pivot Engine Lift #701001. Amazon's got then listed. Great tool. Once you used it, you'll never use those chain ones again
|
By paul2748 - 11 Years Ago
|
The tool I mentioned above is Mac's Pivot Engine lift # 701001. Amazon has them listed. Once you used this, you never go back to the ones with chains.
|
By charliemccraney - 11 Years Ago
|
I added that to my wishlist. Looks useful and Made in the USA.
|