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By RayCarter18 - 11 Years Ago
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I just my 292 back together new rod and mains new piston a total redo. Had the entire top end together. Put oil in and tried priming it up. I am getting about 40psi which is good and I can see the oil coming out of the rockers on the left side however on the right side nothing. So I pulled the rocker assembly off to verify that the hole was in the right spot. It was. So I pulled the head off to verify that the head gasket was on right. I was sure it was since the square tab was in front. Well the gasket was correct. So I spun the oil pump with the head off and still nothing out of that hole. This block has been taken to a machine shop and baked to clean it. Everything came back clean.
Does it just take longer to get oil to the right side since the oil pump is on the left side. I am guess it has nothing to do with the bearing since I am getting good oil flow out the left side rocker arms. Any suggestion or advice. This is my first y block rebuild and now I am frustrated.
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By Daniel Jessup - 11 Years Ago
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Do you have a cross-drilled camshaft? if so, you will never get the oil to the other side unless YOU TURN THE CAMSHAFT so that the oil holes line up. Cross-drilled cams were standard fare in the early Y blocks in 54/55 and the late Y blocks in the 60's.
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By RayCarter18 - 11 Years Ago
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Originally I did, but replaced it with a groved cam, however I have the cam bearing for a cross drilled cam installed. I was told they would work ,by guys on this site. Was I told correctly? I made sure that they were lined up in the block as well.
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By Bob's 55 - 11 Years Ago
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Sounds to me like the cam bearing was installed incorrectly. The bearing is positioned so it is covering the hole to the right side. Little late for you now but I always check the center cam bearing after installation by dropping a welding rod in the hole in the block deck to insure it is correct and clear before installing the cam.
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By RayCarter18 - 11 Years Ago
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Is there any way to check to know if it's installed correctly without pulling the cam? Also if it was installed wrong how is it getting oil to the left side?
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By Talkwrench - 11 Years Ago
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It will take some time to get to the other side at idle, Sure Ive waited minutes before it flowed.. ; (
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By RayCarter18 - 11 Years Ago
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I have spun it a while I am just spinning it with a drill
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By PF Arcand - 11 Years Ago
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Are you spinning it counter clockwise?..
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By RayCarter18 - 11 Years Ago
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Yeah I am spinning it the right way like I said earlier in the post I am getting 40psi but it is only coming out the left side.
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By Ted - 11 Years Ago
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When there is a 'soft' center cam bearing problem, the right bank does starve for oil first. Soft babbit cam bearings typically go at least 200 miles before pinching off the oil supply to the right bank first. If the right bank did not oil from the git go, then the other possibility is that the cam bearing was not clocked correctly in the center location meaning only two of the holes in the cam bearing are aligned with the holes in the block.
In your case where you get no oil from the deck with the head off, I suspect the cam bearing is clocked wrong. There’s still a chance that the hole in the block itself was not cleaned adequately which can be verified by simply taking a drill bit or long rod pushed into the oil hole and seeing if ‘crud’comes back out. If this is the case, then the possibility is there that this stoppage can be cleared out without completely disassembling the engine.
For those of you that are in the process of doing a Y rebuild, there are some different modifications that help to insure adequate oil flow to both banks. Any of the following will work.
- Machine the cam journal groove deeper. This mod does require that all three holes in the cam bearing still align with the holes in the block.
- Use an outer grooved cam bearing set. Schumann sells these.
- Machine the center cam hole in the block so that all three holes are interconnected. The stock cam bearing simply presses in place over this modifation.
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By NoShortcuts - 11 Years Ago
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To follow-up on what Ted said, while you have the camshaft out, check the depth of the center groove, Ray. Just a few weeks ago one of our members asked the following question...
steinauge (8/6/2014)
I am building a fresh 292 for my 55 Ford sedan. The engine is lightly modified-zero decked, pocket ported, etc. I am using an Isky cam. When inspecting the new cam I noted that the oil groove in the center journal was only about .010" deep. I checked 2 stock cams and got .028" & .030" depth. I stuck the cam in the lathe and made the groove stock depth. Question is, I wonder if I needed to do that? I used this same type Isky cam in a 312 some 40 years ago and didn't do that. I don't recall any top end oiling issues. Anyone have any ideas?
The answer to his question was, "You did the right thing!"______________________________
From John Mummerts website:NEW CAMS: ground on NEW cores NOTE: All new cam cores for Y-Blocks are manufactured with insufficient oil groove in center journal resulting in reduced oil flow to rocker arms. WE CORRECT THIS PROBLEM ON ALL NEW CAMS WE SELL!!! |
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By Bob's 55 - 11 Years Ago
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RayCarter18 (8/24/2014)
Also if it was installed wrong how is it getting oil to the left side?
Ray, The center cam bearing has three holes in it as does the block, oil feed and to right and left banks. If the bearing is not installed correctly one (or more) of the holes can be covered up. Only way to confirm (after checking everything else first) is to yank the cam, which means pulling the engine, etc...
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By Y block Billy - 11 Years Ago
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Tried inserting picture but I get a message that could not find instance of the editor??? whats that all about. Anyway, I install the center cam bearing in a tool and put it in my lathe and grove the outside of the cam bearing before installation.
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By Y block Billy - 11 Years Ago
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Forgot to mention without the luxury of a lathe I have groved the outside of the cam bearings with a small round file, chainsaw file etc.
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By 2721955meteor - 11 Years Ago
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I would buy a long drill bit1/8th and drill the outer shell with cam in place,then fish out the cuttings with a magnet and the drill bit.when you have cleaned the metal out ,put the clospegs on all the lifters(be sure push rods are all out.then move the camout2/3rds of the cam bearing. finish the drilling very cairfulley,with heavey greas on drill bit as babet wont catch re a magnet.with patience you will make it .soon as you get finished with the drill slide cam back and prelube catching the oil with a rag to be sure hole is clean. ihave drilled both holes when cam bearings first installed as the so called universal bearings did not linup frome the start. only other choice is to remove engine and tear it down. good luck
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By NoShortcuts - 11 Years Ago
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Cliff, you've shared a repair method that would be employed in a reputable garage.
Even if the engine has not been installed in the vehicle, the time to tear down an engine to remedy an improperly installed cam bearing for a commercial shop is prohibitive.
Hobbyists do things that commercial shops can't afford to do. As a hobbyist, I would tear the whole engine back apart to make it right. Having worked in a commercial shop, I've been guided by others to successfully perform 'make-do' procedures like what you have step-by-step described.
Actually, after reading your description, I think I've seen it suggested somewhere else, but I'd forgotten it because I haven't done it myself. Your procedural description was more complete though, too! Thanks for sharing. 
Regards, |
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By RayCarter18 - 11 Years Ago
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Thanks for all the advice. I hate to have to tear apart the engine but it the only thing to do. Can I disconnect the piston rods and push the piston to the top of the cylinder and pull the crank and than the cam. Will that give me enough room or am I gonna have to pull the pistons all the way out of the cylinder?
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By Hoosier Hurricane - 11 Years Ago
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You can do it that way. Be sure to put some plastic or rubber sleeves on the rod bolts to keep from nicking the crank, especially when putting it back in.
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