Engine paint


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By 2DRHRDTP57 - 17 Years Ago
Gents,

Some advice please on what in your experience gives the most durable and most aesthetic appearance paint wise for a Y block engine.

Do you guys etch prime and paint?  or what process / products do you believe gives the best result.

I wont be painting my Rebop parts though Frank did too gooda job on them to hide them with paint!!! Maybe some clear coat on these???

Any advice appreciated.

By charliemccraney - 17 Years Ago
I've used duplicolor with good results. I didn't etch but I took some time to degrease the engine, primed and painted. I used clear on the aluminum. Go easy with the clear, though. Too much and it will have a yellow tint to it. Painting isn't one of my better abilities - I have some yellow tint. One thing I don't like is that gasoline seems to strip it right off. I don't know if that will happen once it has been cured, after running the engine a few times. I've put about 10k miles on the paint. I've only used the clear for about 1000 so I don't know how well it will hold up. iT's doing well so far.
By paul2748 - 17 Years Ago
Judd Hirsch is the actor, Bill Hirsch is the paint guy (Newark, NJ). I have used some of his paint and it seems to hold up. Another one I like is VHT.
By John F - 17 Years Ago
I've used the dupli-color. It's been a year and has held up very well to this point.
By DANIEL TINDER - 17 Years Ago
What process is best for stripping old paint off cast iron? Will aluminum hold color coat well without primer (like iron?), or is the sand-cast surface what's important?
By rgrove - 17 Years Ago
Actually, Ive used the FOrd Red I got from T-Bird products before with really good results.  I think it is made by Seymour of Sycamore (real paint company).  Ive had it on my engine for about 12k miles and it still looks really good, and its from a rattle can no less.  Just a LOT of cleaning and degreasing first!
By suede57ford - 17 Years Ago
Epoxy prime everything including the Aluminum and the paint will really stick.  Let the epoxy dry 1/2 hour before applying the top coat.  Any brand of two part epoxy from an automotive paint store should work.   The green/gray has the most zinc for best adhesion.

I never use a spray can paint on my engines.   I use either Urethane single stage or Arcylic Enamel with Hardner over the epoxy. 

The catalized paint will not be affected by solvents or stain after dry.

For Y-Block red I use early 60's Ford truck "Rangoon Red" formula.   It is red with a orange tint and looks like the original, but is more vibrant and lasts better than any spray can stuff.

Using the automotive based paint and primer does add to the price, but it will last and look great.

By unibodyboy - 17 Years Ago
Pat is right on with the single stage urethane advice.  I used DP40 for my primer and single stage (concept) for color.  Expensive, but it isn't going anywhere.