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By JohnR - 11 Years Ago
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Getting ready to install the reworked heads on my 1959 Edsel 292.
I read the factory service manual and it says:
"Coat the head bolt threads with water resistant sealant" and
"After the bolts have been tightened to specifications, the bolts should not be disturbed"
The head bolt holes do not open to the water jacket or oil galley so why would I need to use a sealant on the bolt threads? I was planning to just lightly oil the threads.
I also understand the manual was written for the metal head gaskets. I'm using the blue FelPro fiber gaskets. I've read that the cylinder power rings will seal better if the heads are torqued and backed off and re-torqued 3 times. Any opinion on this from guys who have done it?
A couple other questions. I got the FelPro full engine gasket kit. It contains a 1 1/8" copper o-ring and a slightly larger copper flat washer (bent to provide spring?). I took a flat copper washer off the oil sump tube (inside pan) so I assume the flat one goes there. Where does the copper o-ring go?
My new oil pump came with a 1/2" rubber cylinder to seal the sump tube in the pump. The FelPro kit has the rubber cylinder also but it has a metal end on each side. Which is better? I'm leaning to using the all rubber one - it came with the pump so it should be the right one. Plus the one with the metal ends would put a metal end against the metal of the jam nut - seems like that could leak to me. The rubber would seal in the opening but couldn't oil get around the tube itself and out at the jam nut/metal end joint.
Thanks - this is a very helpful site!
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By Ted - 11 Years Ago
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I suspect the extra copper gasket is for the oil drain plug. The earlier engines used a large drain plug versus the smaller plug on the later model engines.
The head bolt holes are blind so all you should need is some kind of lubricant on the head bolt threads to facilitate torquing of the bolts. Water sealant is not required at the head bolt locations for the Y-Blocks. As far as re-torquing goes, I never back the bolts back off to re-torque. If re-torque does occur, it’s to simply to insure the bolts have not backed off. With most composition head gaskets and good quality head bolts, re-torquing is typically nor required.
For the oil pump tube, I use the non-metalized rubber seal such as comes in the Best Gasket sets or with a new oil pump. These tend to not damage the tube if the oil pump flange nut is overtightened. Regardless of the type of seal being used, I do liberally coat that rubber seal with white grease to aid in the initial seal.
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By JohnR - 11 Years Ago
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Thanks Ted, just want I needed to know.
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By 2721955meteor - 11 Years Ago
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i agree with ted,tho i always run a bottem tap down all the threads,with todays gaskets no need to retorqe,but do it in stages,i torqu mine to 312 # with lubed threads
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By NoShortcuts - 11 Years Ago
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Jumping ahead a bit, John... some of the y-block front timing chain cover bolt holes are not blind and open into the water jacket. Watch for them in case the repair manual leaves the info out.
Best wishes,
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By JohnR - 11 Years Ago
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Thanks for the info, I did see some of the timing cover/water pump holes go into the jackets and I will use sealant on them. This is my first y-block rebuild but I do have experience with smaller engines and even larger tractor diesels... Just have to ask when the manual says something I think is wrong...
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By NoShortcuts - 11 Years Ago
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Our interest is in your success with your y-block, John. We're glad to have you as a Forum member! 
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By charliemccraney - 11 Years Ago
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It could be for anti-seize properties or lubrication for torquing the bolt.
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