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By Duck - 17 Years Ago
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I started tearing down a 312 today to hopefully rebuild it for my '57 T-bird. I had attempted to tear down the original motor from the Bird 3 yrs ago but was foiled by not being able to budge the rotating assembly. (couldn't access all the rod bolts) I'm afraid I'm looking at the same thing again. I filled the cylinders with PB Blast over 2 years ago, and of course it's still seized. I'm hoping someone here might have a trick or two for getting THIS Y-block apart they wouldn't mind sharing. I'm at a total loss for what to do next. Thank You In Advance
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By 52MERCURY - 17 Years Ago
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Pull the heads,put some ATF in the cylinders and try tapping on the pistons with a wood block and mallet as you try to turn the crank.If the engine had water in the cylinders you may have a SERIOUS problem getting the pistons loose! ROY .
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By timmy4 - 17 Years Ago
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I had the same problem when taking my 272 apart. I took the rod caps that I could get too off and I used a box wrench to unloosen the ones i could not get a socket on. You might want to try a distributor wrench like the type used on the older gm cars. I was able to tap a few pistons up a little bit so I could turn the crank shaft then I drove the pistons down enough so I could hone the cylinder then I drove them out that way. Another thing you can try is to heat the cylinder with a torch and then try moving the piston to free it up. Hope that helps a little.
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By Ted - 17 Years Ago
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Troy. Are the heads still on the engine? If so, then the ATF in the cylinders and pressurizing the cylinders with air can possibly help. I had a 352 years ago that this worked on. I let it sit overnight after pressurizing with air and it broke loose the following day.
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By Pete 55Tbird - 17 Years Ago
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You can also try some COKE in the cylinders. It contains a weak phosphoric acid and will dssolve rust, within reason.
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By Doug T - 17 Years Ago
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All of the above plus pull all the main caps. Remove the bearings except for the ends and be sure the ends are free or at least oiled then end caps back on but not too tight. Also pull the cam drive chain. Try to turn it with a big pry bar on the starter ring gear leveraged on the 1/2" bolt into the bell housing mount.
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By PWH42 - 17 Years Ago
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As Doug suggested,remove the timing chain.I had one of these engines stuck one time years ago and it wasn't the pistons stuck.It was the lifters stuck in their bores.After removing the timing chain,the engine freed up.
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By 2DRHRDTP57 - 17 Years Ago
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Hey, My 5 cents worth all ideas posted have credibility, I have had success with filling the block with boiling hot water, the expansion of the block with cool pistons/ rings can help break the rotating assembly free,
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By Duck - 17 Years Ago
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Thank you for all the suggestions, fellas. Alas, she's still stuck tight- sometimes you can't win for losing, I guess. Again, -Thank You-
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By 2DRHRDTP57 - 17 Years Ago
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O.K. One last suggestion in desperation, make an adadter for the spark plug hole on a cylinder on the down stroke and fit a grease nipple to the adapter and see if by filling the cavity with grease you can hydraulic the piston downward with a lever action grease gun, obviously you could do more than 1 piston providing they are all headed down ward. if its that stuck its worth a shot, you aint got much to loose.
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By 2DRHRDTP57 - 17 Years Ago
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1 last thing remove rocker gear first!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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By The Bat out of hell - 17 Years Ago
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BP blaster has worked good for me,at gitting down beside the piston,after pulling the heads,and cleaning as much as i can out and off walls,set block with one head side up and pull BP in them,let site over nite,add some next AM,turn to other side and repete,by 5;00 or so it should be ready to put a crow bar or very big screw driver from a bolt [were bell housing bolts too to the flywheel and work it back and forth tell you can get it all apart.
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By Pete 55Tbird - 17 Years Ago
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This is a second attempt to post so if duplicte, sorry. As a last resort try Google - rust removal by electrolysis. This WILL destroy aluminum pistons and copper bearings but it will remove all the rust from your 312. A large plastic tub, a battery charger and some wash soda and in one or two days NO RUST. If you do try this method please post the results.
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By Duck - 17 Years Ago
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ust an update- I spent a few afternoons doing the following; I found the biggest holesaw I had and used it to remove a 2 1/2" plug from all the pistons (4) that were "up" in the bores. I then sectioned the remainder of the tops of the pistons with a Sawzall, cutting towards the OD using care so as not to cut into the cylinder walls. Then with a hammer and a few sharp chisels and the drill and various size bits I carefully removed what remained of the pistons down to and including the rings. A cross section of a few pistons confirmed my suspicion, that being, a 2+ yr soak with PB BLASTER was a waste of time, money, and oil. The sides of the pistons that were rusted to the bores were completely dry. After I finished hammering on things (hands included) I was more than happy to walk away from it for a week. (I soaked everything down with Marvelous Mystery oil first.) This morning with a do or die trying attitude, I attacked what remained of the pistons. With much difficulty and many expletives (& some luck) I was able to "raise" the crank after removing all the bolts I could get to. Once I got the crank removed (FINALLY) I was able to beat the pistons out from the bottom. The tops broke off two in the process, but the main thing was ALL THOSE SEIZED PISTONS WERE FINALLY OUT! I'm not entirely sure how, but I didn't put a single mark on anything I need to save- EXCEPT The tool to pull the balancer off distorted the ID of the crank snout somewhat, as I couldn't get the crank bolt back in. I think the machine shop can iron it out, though. I want to say Thanks to everyone who offered suggestions, I really appreciated it. I hope you fellas won't mind answering a few more questions, as I know I'll have a few when I get to reassembly.... Thanks Again [Smile]
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By Reed P - 17 Years Ago
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The Duck Guy (4/6/2008)
ust an update- I spent a few afternoons doing the following; I found the biggest holesaw I had and used it to remove a 2 1/2" plug from all the pistons (4) that were "up" in the bores. I then sectioned the remainder of the tops of the pistons with a Sawzall, cutting towards the OD using care so as not to cut into the cylinder walls. Then with a hammer and a few sharp chisels and the drill and various size bits I carefully removed what remained of the pistons down to and including the rings. A cross section of a few pistons confirmed my suspicion, that being, a 2+ yr soak with PB BLASTER was a waste of time, money, and oil. The sides of the pistons that were rusted to the bores were completely dry. After I finished hammering on things (hands included) I was more than happy to walk away from it for a week. (I soaked everything down with Marvelous Mystery oil first.) This morning with a do or die trying attitude, I attacked what remained of the pistons. With much difficulty and many expletives (& some luck) I was able to "raise" the crank after removing all the bolts I could get to. Once I got the crank removed (FINALLY) I was able to beat the pistons out from the bottom. The tops broke off two in the process, but the main thing was ALL THOSE SEIZED PISTONS WERE FINALLY OUT! I'm not entirely sure how, but I didn't put a single mark on anything I need to save- EXCEPT The tool to pull the balancer off distorted the ID of the crank snout somewhat, as I couldn't get the crank bolt back in. I think the machine shop can iron it out, though. I want to say Thanks to everyone who offered suggestions, I really appreciated it. I hope you fellas won't mind answering a few more questions, as I know I'll have a few when I get to reassembly.... Thanks Again [Smile]
I worked up a sweat just reading this....I hope everything else in your re-build adventure, is....well, a little less work!
reed
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By charliemccraney - 17 Years Ago
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I had to do a similar thing when I got my engine from the scrap yard. I spent about a month being patient but I needed to get it apart. I think I wound up spliting 4 pistons in two before I got it to budge. Now on to the fun stuff!
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By Redmagne - 15 Years Ago
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Hey guys, I'm having the same problem. I've tried everything, including an air chisel. I'm try electrolysis now, I've cut the top off a 55 gallon drum, put a couple of 2x4 on the bottom, set the block in w/ the hoist up just enough to tension the chain(not enough for the block to move). Here is a link that explains the process:
http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp
I've modified it a bit, but it is bubbling and a rust foam has covered the surface. Hope it works, I would really like to have the 312 crank and rods....
Moderator edit: link fixed by adding a space directly behind it.
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By Glen Henderson - 15 Years Ago
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I've had to cut rod into that I could not reach the nuts on, once you get the crank out, a BFH and solid bar (last time I used a piece of 1/2 X 2 flat bar) on the bottom of the piston will bring them out.
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By Duck - 15 Years Ago
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I don't like being the harbinger of bad news, but I put the original 292 out of my car in a electrolysis bath for 6 weeks- bubbled like hell for a while, but in the end, no cigar. I acquired a 312 in a parts car that was seized tight, I decided to bust the pistons out in pieces (and did) only to find 6 cylinders that needed to be sleeved. I hope you have better luck than I did. /Duck
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