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By Y-Block Y-not - 11 Years Ago
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Greetings - I have just sent the heads off my 256 out for rebuild - Blocks (short) all done and back together
Unfortunately after cleaning the 25years of build up off them one is cracked beyond repair (coming out of a head bolt hole??)
Casting mark on the head shows its a "EBZ-M" with 54E stamped - What heads can I interchange this with?? - Y's are hard to come by down under so any help is appreciated
Gordon
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By steinauge - 11 Years Ago
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Not having any experience with a 256 I dont have a pat answer.If I were in your place I would cc a combustion chamber and see if it was in the 292 ballpark-74cc or so.If so I would try and find a set of 272-292 stock heads.I would also want to see(in the event the new heads had significantly larger valves) that the valves were clear of the top of the bore.I reckon you would likely need a large port intake manifold too.All we ever did with 239-256 engines when I was a young feller was take them out to make room for a 312..Sort of reminds me of the literal tons of stock HD parts we tossed out
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By Y-Block Y-not - 11 Years Ago
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Hi Thanks for the advise - I now recall reading somewhere that the inlet manifold will need to be Cx'd as well - thanks again for prompt - I'll start reading again
If anyone else could chip in I would appreciate it
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By pegleg - 11 Years Ago
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Check John Mummert's site for your info.
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By PF Arcand - 11 Years Ago
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According to James Eickman's Ford Y-Block book (1984) your heads, for 1954-55 H.D. trucks, should be from the Cleveland foundary. It's a grey area, but it's possible that later heads will fit properly, where they apparently won't fit earler Dearborn blocks. Maybe someone else here can clear that up. Unfortunately, the book is very vague on 256" truck engines... Good luck
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By NoShortcuts - 11 Years Ago
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Like Paul, I'm unclear on the interchangeability of heads on the early 239 and 256 y-block.
IF you can't locate a replacement cylinder head, I would consider metal stitching or metalocking as a repair method. Old timers swear by it for getting the job done and saving things...
Here's a web site with some info. http://www.locknstitch.com/metal_stitching.htm
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By 2721955meteor - 11 Years Ago
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no shortcuts, the proces you showed is excellent,we use to sows up cracks in early (2u,13a series d8 dozers trans cases,as well as engine blocks). the only aria it did not work was combustion aria of cylender heads. but water jacket and oil eras it is as strong as the original casting.Problem hear is getting some one to do it. hear it was called harmen chain lock. i would recommend that proses if you could find a shop that is experienced
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By Dobie - 11 Years Ago
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I had luck in finding a shop that specializes in industrial casting repair when I had my flathead fixed. He didn't use the Lock'nStitch method, though. He used the Irontite method. I had a crack in one combustion chamber from the exhaust valve seat, across the chamber and down about 3/8" into the cylinder. He sewed that one up plus the "part number" cracks in the deck between water holes, all for $150. Then my machinist pal sleeved the cylinder. I have driven the car many thousands of miles since with no problems. I do suggest backing up the repair with water glass; it's cheap insurance.
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By pintoplumber - 11 Years Ago
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Gordon, here's a picture of a 239 early block. The picture is of cylinder #4. Does your block look like this ?
If you have a water passage where the black magic marker circle is, you have a later block and the newer heads will fit. If you have the water passage to the right of cylinder #4 , you have an early block. Later heads can be put on an early block with a little work. I can post how I did it.
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By Y-Block Y-not - 11 Years Ago
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Hi Gordon here - thanks for the help with the weld repair info - even if I find another head I think I'll be getting this one repaired - they are just too hard to find here
Dobie - Sorry for the ignorance but what's "Water Glass" - I've never heard that name or term before
Dennis - Mate thank you I think that's the piece of the puzzle I needed - I should be matching heads to the block rather than trying to find an alternate for the heads I have - I'll check the block tonight and let you know if I need your wisdom
A photo of the old girl when I found her
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By Dobie - 11 Years Ago
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Water glass is sodium silicate, a common ingredient in most liquid block sealers. If done properly it's a permanent repair but it's not for the fainthearted, so if you use it be sure to follow the directions to the letter.
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By Y-Block Y-not - 11 Years Ago
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Hi Dennis
Confirmed that there is a water passage as required to fit the newer heads - thanks that's a ray of sunshine - now to find a pair of heads (and probably a new inlet manifold to match)
Cheers
 .
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By 314 - 11 Years Ago
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if its a 55 truck head all later parts fit.the block is the same as 272.i had one .
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By NoShortcuts - 11 Years Ago
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pintoplumber (12/4/2014)
Gordon, here's a picture of a 239 early block. The picture is of cylinder #4. Does your block look like this ? If you have a water passage where the black magic marker circle is, you have a later block and the newer heads will fit. If you have the water passage to the right of cylinder #4 , you have an early block. Later heads can be put on an early block with a little work. I can post how I did it.
THANKS for the info. and the corresponding picture, Dennis. I've never been clear on how to differentiate between the early and late '54 blocks. From what Paul mentioned, am I understanding that determining which iron foundry made the block, will tell the story, too?
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By pegleg - 11 Years Ago
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Dobie/Dennis;
If you don't want to use the Sodium Silicate at home there will be a commercial company somewhere near you that can do it. they also can use a vacuum process (Autoclave) that pulls a vacuum on the casting, then introduces the sealant. That method will then allow atmospheric pressure to force the sealant into the crack. Works pretty well.
Most foundries now use an epoxy sealer now which is better but will not stand combustion temperatures. Sodium silicate will.
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By Dobie - 11 Years Ago
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Thanks Pegleg. I've used it several times on different engines. The secret is to follow the directions, a lot of people don't do that and get into big trouble with it. I take the extra step of rinsing it out of the radiator before it can dry. Never had a problem with it.
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