Different Carburetor


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By kthomas62 - 11 Years Ago
Hello all,

Newbie here with a question. My 56 Vicky / 292 has a Holley Teapot on it. I am wondering (if I was to decide to do this), what carb and intake could I use if I wanted to get away from the teapot? I also believe I would need to go to a 57 dizzy with single vacuum advance too?

Thanks!!

Kevin
By paul2748 - 11 Years Ago
Yes - you would have to go with a later (57 and up) distributor if you go with a later carb.

You can use your stock intake.  Jegs, Summitt sell adapters to go from the old  bolt pattern to the newer one.  Or you could go with a 57 or later intake.  If your engine is stock, stick with a 500 or smaller CFM carb.
By kthomas62 - 11 Years Ago
Thank you! I appreciate the information!

Kevin
By slick56 - 11 Years Ago
Here is the adapter you will need. They are on eBay fairly often.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NOS-Offenhauser-WCFB-Rochestor-4-jet-4-barrel-to-modern-holley-edelbrock-adaptor-/181417883536?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a3d593790

A 465 Holley works well on a fairly standard engine.
By Canadian Hot Rodder - 11 Years Ago
It may be more money, but I will tell you to go with a Mummert aluminum manifold! It is twice the intake manifold, even over the stock 57 intake! (not to mention HUGE weight savings!!!) http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/cd9f5d66-7e94-4798-be6f-5643.jpg
By PF Arcand - 11 Years Ago
Kevin: You didn't indicate if there is a problem with the original Holley teapot. Is there?
By petew - 11 Years Ago
I ditched the teapots on my 312's in favor of a Holley 600 for each car. Took stock jetting down from 65's to 62's , the cars are responsive, idle clean and with electric chokes start immediately when cold. By removing the teapot and the Load O Matic distributor the car will feel like it picked some horse power too.
Do an eBay search for "Holley factory refurbished carburetors   " and you will find some great deals on 600's direct from Holley. In most cases $100.00 cheaper than summit prices.
By kthomas62 - 11 Years Ago
PF Arcand (12/26/2014)
Kevin: You didn't indicate if there is a problem with the original Holley teapot. Is there?


Hi Paul,

Sorry for the delay, I am just now getting on the forum today. Well yes and no, and let me explain. Once we got some other things lined out it seems to be doing better. The teapot was rebuilt by Mike Suter a few months back (the PO sent it to Mike), and now that I am getting more familiar with my car (just bought it in September and got it picked up and brought home in October). this whole thing with my car has turned out to be quite a fiasco.

 Here's the deal. I bought this car from a guy in Virginia Beach named Charlie Dawson, goes by pungion on eBay. The engine had "supposedly" just been rebuilt at Magnum Machine shop in Chesapeake, VA and had been driven 250 miles. I am not quite sure what engine the invoice he gave me goes to, but I am fairly certain it didn't go with my 292. When I got the car home it had a hesitation and several oil leaks, one of which was the rear main. When we pulled the pan, there was still sludge in the bottom!

Well, this Charlie has his own mechanic that pulled the engine for the rebuilt and then reienstalled it in the car and apparently had several things jacked up.

The car had a hesitation when taking off from a stop and got to where it was backfiring in the carburetor. Come to find out, the timing was really retarded. There was a taping coming from the right head and as it turns out, the valve lash was wrong so my mechanic (JT) re-ran the valves and set them at .21 My mechanic told me that there was old carbon build up around the rear valve and it was not getting oil and was starting to gauld, so I am sure glad I didn't drive the car much more.

JT used a pic and removed the carbon and the valve is getting adequate oil now. He also set the mixture screws using the vacuum gauge and with car in drive as Mike Suter suggested, and he got the timing straightened out as well where it is around .10 or .11 initial and .36 overall. 

The 56 ran so good on the way home a week ago Thursday that I didn't think it was the same car!  I drove it about 120 miles a week ago today and then after it seemed to be flooding in fact when I went to start it last Sunday, I had gas coming out the top of the carburetor and it made a sizable puddle on my shop floor under my car which I quickly mopped up.

I took needle / seat plug out and blew that area out with air, and noticed some rust particles lying in the float bowl which I cleaned out and I am suspecting are coming from the gas tank. Once cleaned out and put back together, the carburetor did not flood again and seems to be running pretty well. I believe a piece of rust got under the needle and wouldn't allow it to shut the gas off.

I am going to replace the fuel tank and stop that issue. My car has a Ford-o-matic tranny but there is no dash pot on it and now that things are getting lined out with the car, it seems that it almost wants to die when I put the car in drive or reverse.

The car still has a little hesitation but I have another dual vacuum advance coming that I am going to trade out with the one that is currently on the car and see if that cures the rest of the hesitation issue.
So, I apologize for the editorial, but I am just tossing around the idea of going to a different set up so the car is reliable and dependable but I may not need to once everything is lined out.

Kevin


By PF Arcand - 11 Years Ago
First if you haven't done so.. install a new fuel filter. Check your idle speed, it may be to slow when in gear, but I doubt that the  dash pot has any effect there. My car doesn't even have one, and it hasn't been a problem.
By DryLakesRacer - 11 Years Ago
My 56 Vic came with the stock Holley also and it too was "overhauled". (engine too but that was true) I did not want to keep the old carb as our family had problems with them in the 50's. I installed a 1953 Cadillac Carter WCFB which was a bolt on.   Minor work was needed for the linkage, a fuel line, choke heater tube and the vacuum line for the distributor. I installed a 57-up distributor at that time too. I even made the stock air cleaner work. I can e-mail you photos if you like. None of this was difficult. The car performs flawless. I installed a 1/4" phenolic plate under it.

The carb was bought from a reputable local carb shop who seems to have a few of these older units. It was for a 331" engine of lower compression so it was a good fit. A 1953 Oldsmobile would be better as it's a 303". Carter small base WCFB's were used on Cads,  Buicks,  Olds,  Packards,  Plymouths, Dodges, Studebakers, and some 1956 Mercury's if you want one for the Loadmatic distributor. All these flow between 350 and 400 CFM according to the "experts" on stuff like that.

I've now installed dual quads using matched WCFB's from the 53 Olds and they work great. A lot more work however. Good Luck..
PS: Good looking 56 Vic.... 


By kthomas62 - 11 Years Ago
Thanks guys! I appreciate your insight!! 

Paul, I actually thought about a fuel filter today and wondered why my car didn't have one. Where in the line is yours?

Thanks!

Kevin
By dbird - 11 Years Ago
While I can't speak to a 56, in 55 I believe there was a filter bowl under the pump.

Don
By kthomas62 - 11 Years Ago
Thanks Don.

I will look at mine tomorrow.

Kevin
By kthomas62 - 11 Years Ago
Not sure my fuel pump has a filter however, it looks like I could possibly put an in-line one before the pump on the rubber hose. 
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/2ecc4a3d-eaa1-4f37-af57-e73a.jpg
By Doug T - 11 Years Ago
I notice 3 things from this pic:
The road draft tube is similar to the T bird set up, the pass car ones are straight down with an angle cut off
The Fuel pump does not have a filter on it,  it is for some other application possibly a FE engine
The Xmission cooling lines are hose while the stock ones were definitely steel tube.  Some hose might be OK for ATF but ATF is a pretty good solvent and it would attack heater hose pretty quickly and this looks like heater hose
By kthomas62 - 11 Years Ago
Good eye Doug!

I am not surprised about the rubber tranny cooler lines if you look up in my earlier reply about this car. I will also get those traded out for the correct lines.

Kevin
By PF Arcand - 11 Years Ago
Kevin: my fuel filter is a regular in line one, above the fuel pump. Several companies make them, mine happens to be a plastic see thru type, but most are metal. 
By kthomas62 - 11 Years Ago
Thanks Paul,

Yeah that is what I have used most commonly on other vehicles as well. I have been thinking about the particles I found in my float bowl though. 2 weeks ago when I decided to go for my 100+ mile drive, I drove from home to the gas station to fill up the car, keeping in mind they have like a 17 or 17.5 gal tank, and my gas gauge was showing about 1/2 a tank.

On the way I was going up a small incline and ran out of gas so I called my wife who brought the gas can from the shop which had about 1 gallon of gas in it. I put that in and the car started and I proceeded to the gas station where I put in 15 gallons of gas.

So I believe I picked up some trash from the gas tank that I would not have normally done, just because it got ran down so low.

Kevin
By DryLakesRacer - 11 Years Ago
If you want to look in the tank or make your gas gauge closer to correct I did it all in the trunk. I removed the cover under the mat and the 6 or so screws and pulled out the float; tank was spotless. I measured the tank depth with a wooden ruler, mounted the sender on a 2x4 sideways, set the float where the it would be hitting the top of the tank, turned the key switch to ACC and looked where the gauge settled. Did that at 1/2 the tank at the bottom of the float, and finally where the tank would be with 3/4" from the bottom and set that at empty on the gauge. Had the put a little "z" in the float holder to make it come out where I liked it.

If you don't want to put one of those plastic filters in the line between the pump and carb, consider how the T-birds did it with a glass one you can change. I bought an AC one off E-bay and a 5/16" line and three 5/16" to 1/8" pipe adapters from an autoparts store. I had a 3 size bender, tubing cutter and flaring tool already. (all are available for Harbor Freight pretty cheap) I made a copy of the bends and angles I wanted from a coat hanger and then copied that. I used two 5/16" lines from the parts store so I wouldn't need to by any other fittings. Remember to tape the fittings on the tubing near where they go before you bend and they don't go around 90*'s and 180*'s very well. I've enclosed a couple of photos.http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/d234ee9c-3ece-4183-9e56-468a.jpghttp://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/b7cc7a7e-7acd-4e16-bd3a-6855.jpg   
By kthomas62 - 11 Years Ago
Wow,

Thanks for posting the photos and the info on the sending unit and fuel filter!

Kevin
By 56_Fairlane - 10 Years Ago
A 56 should have the glass bowl at the bottom of the fuel pump. Mine was like yours when I got it with an inline filter before the pump. I converted the existing pump with a bowl from another pump that needed a rebuild. It was essentially a one bolt job that took only a few minutes to change.


By kthomas62 - 10 Years Ago
Howdy DJ,

Yeah I was thinking I would change the pump out to one like you have now. They don't cost a lot and at least they have the glass bowl. I pulled the top on the carburetor today and no more rust particles. I think it was because I ran down so low on gas.

Kevin
By GREENBIRD56 - 10 Years Ago
Ford FE big block trucks - like the 360 / 390 cid for instance - also had a fuel pump that incorporated a canister filter on the bottom. Easier to service than the glass type if you ask me (which I realize you didn't!). Changing the pleated paper filter and cleaning out the can makes for a pretty clean service procedure tho. they fit on the y-blocks and work well. 
By kthomas62 - 10 Years Ago
GREENBIRD56 (1/5/2015)
Ford FE big block trucks - like the 360 / 390 cid for instance - also had a fuel pump that incorporated a canister filter on the bottom. Easier to service than the glass type if you ask me (which I realize you didn't!). Changing the pleated paper filter and cleaning out the can makes for a pretty clean service procedure tho. they fit on the y-blocks and work well. 


I appreciate the input Steve! I will check into that option as well.

Kevin
By 56_Fairlane - 10 Years Ago
The glass bowl is better in some ways. You can see if have any gas coming into the pump and it's easy to see if you have any crud in your fuel.
I've never had a canister filter for fuel but the glass bowl is very easy to service.
By PF Arcand - 10 Years Ago
I'm under the impression that the glass under bowl on those pumps, originally contained a filter, possible a ceramic one?  Yes or no?  If yes, where could one be obtained? 
By 56_Fairlane - 10 Years Ago
The one I have has a paper or some kind of fiber filter in addition to a brass screen in the top section of the bowl.