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By Ryan New Mexico - 10 Years Ago
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Guys,
Well I need to run something past the resident experts here.
1. I have a 1956 272, with 3x2 Edelbrock 553 Intake, Ford 94's. The motor starts and idles great. Once I begin to accelerate the motor bogs down, almost dies, I lift off the gas a little then it starts again strong and then all three carbs can open and it runs fine. All the carbs have just been professionally rebuilt with new gaskets, so I don't think it is the carbs (or setup).
2. I am running a Petronix 2, with a reman Cardon Distributor 57+ style.
3. My vacuum to the distributor is coming off of a tee from the intake, one going to the distributor the other going to the trans (TH350).
I am going to buy a timing gun as well as a vacuum tester, to set it properly because of now I am only in the ball park. I think I have the idle process down, where you pull the vacuum and set at 8-12 degrees depending on motor, then reconnect and run up to 2.5k rpms and set vacuum advance setting. My question is how do you change that setting (Vacuum advance)? I have read where you can stick an allen key in the canister, but I have no hex to adjust in my distributor, and I have read where you add Mr. Gasket springs (925D I think???), but I see no springs in my distributor.
Also, should I be pulling vacuum from the carb? I do not see anywhere on my carbs where I would hook a line up to.
Sorry for the questions, but I want to get this thing dialed in proper.
Thanks,
Ryan
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By steinauge - 10 Years Ago
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I would back the stops for the end carbs off until they either dont open at all or open as little as possible.Then drive the car on the center carb and see if it runs normally.If it does you are likely just getting into the end carbs too soon and need to adjust.If not leave the carbs alone and disconnect the vac adv and trans vac line and run the car without it.If the car runs Ok without it then your vac setup is your problem.the advance and try it,if it runs OK then the other one is the problem.HTH
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By DryLakesRacer - 10 Years Ago
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I agree with Steinauge. You did not say if you are running progressive linkage but that is a must for a daily/cruiser.
Not that you should do this, but I would remove the outside carbs, install plates, block the the 2 fuel lines and drive the car setting up everything for center carb running just like the car was stock. The vacuum advance should come off the venturii (I'm not that familiar with a 94) and the trans off the manifold or base vacuum; once everything works good add the 2 outer carbs. Your your manifold vacuum should be in the 15+ range and smooth depending on your cam.Then install the outside carb, and progessive linkage. I built progressive linkage for 3 Rochester 4GC's to work with stock 56 Ford throttle linkage and it was a pain in the a--.
If correct the mixture screws should be all the was closed and so should the idle butterflies on the end carbs. Stock GM fifties cars (scrubs, Pontiacs, Olds) were all this way.. . . . . .Good Luck
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By Ryan New Mexico - 10 Years Ago
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Thanks guys. Yes I have a progressive linkage on, and the bogging happens on just the center carb. I have to advance the throttle very slowly and sometimes it still stutters. I am running 1.75 ~2.00 lbs of fuel pressure (These carbs do not like more than 2lbs), so I have messed with that and it had little to no effect of the issue.
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By steinauge - 10 Years Ago
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If you can make it work by "walking into it" slowly I would look at the accelerator pump first.If that seems to be working I would take the center carb off and find out what the rebuilder did wrong.I have seen a LOT of commercialy rebuilt carbs that didnt work very well.Also-I always thought 94-97-A3 type carbs took about 3-4 pounds of fuel pressure? Been a long time-could be wrong.
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By miker - 10 Years Ago
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If the accel pump looks OK, check the main jets in the center carb. That can also be a lean mixture bog. It's been too long since I ran 94's, but someone here will get you in the ballpark for jet sizes.
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By paul2748 - 10 Years Ago
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I have heard that most of the accelerator pumps used for 94 rebuilds are too short. I know a guy in Connecticut that has the correct ones. I don't know if this is your problem, just a suggestion.
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By Ryan New Mexico - 10 Years Ago
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Thanks Paul and everyone for the suggestions!
Dick York from Dicks Hot Rod Carbs http://dickshotrodcarbs.com/home.html did the entire rebuild, and I just got it back last week so I have not ran much fuel threw it yet, only cruising up and down the road a few times. I will reach out to him, he's a great guy to see what he used, but I am thinking the rebuild is spot on as I know several hot rodders that have used his stuff with only good results. I built the car from scratch, kind of Rat Rod style (but safe with new or really quality used parts) so I have only taken baby steps as I am trying to make sure everything is functioning properly on the truck.
Here is a video of my turd wagon running for the first time up and down the road out front, but I didn't really get into it because I was testing the waters of my brakes, haha.
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By Talkwrench - 10 Years Ago
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Im going to say power valves straight up. forget about your vacuum advance block it all off for now. You will need to find out what your jets are and the power valves are, start there . AND the standard holley power valves don't fit the 94's they are particular to the 94's.
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By Ryan New Mexico - 10 Years Ago
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Thanks Talkwrench, I will do that.
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By CK - 10 Years Ago
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Awesome truck.
Have you checked the timing mark, to be actual TDC.
The balances can turn on itself and give a false reading.
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By Ryan New Mexico - 10 Years Ago
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Thanks CK
Well I managed to get it to TDC then once I was close I found the mark. I bought some of the timing stickers from MSD and found the closest one to the Dia and stuck it on. Should be close enough to get me in the ball field.
Take it easy!
~Ryan
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