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By Canadian Hot Rodder - 10 Years Ago
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Just curious, ready to put my new Y-Block back in and have been replacing as many bolts as possible. Noticed that my motor mount bolts have no markings on them (mount to block) and was just wondering if I should use grade 8 bolts or will grade 5 suffice? (I believe they are 7/16" x 1")
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By Brodie55 - 10 Years Ago
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In this case I think gravity is your friend and grade 5 will suffice.
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By Canadian Hot Rodder - 10 Years Ago
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LOL you may be right Brodie, but was just wondering about the extra torque my new motor puts out, whether it is possible to snap a bolt head off?
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By Brodie55 - 10 Years Ago
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I think the elastomer will shear lkng before the bolt gives up.
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By MoonShadow - 10 Years Ago
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After reading this yesterday I was thinking about it. I don't think I've ever seen the bolts to the block break or shear off unless there was another problem. Like loose bolts or crash. I think grade 5 or above would be fine. Chuck
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By Canadian Hot Rodder - 10 Years Ago
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thanks guys!
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By pegleg - 10 Years Ago
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Rob,
I put a nut and bolt thru the left side to act as a strap. Leave it out a 1/4 inch or so and use a lock nut. keeps the rubber from separating and letting the engine flop over. I'll try to get a phone shot of what I mean and send it to you.
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By MoonShadow - 10 Years Ago
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Frank I'd love to see that shot too. Can you upload it here or at least a sketch? Chuck
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By pegleg - 10 Years Ago
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I can give a definite "maybe" on that, Will try tomorrow.
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By Canadian Hot Rodder - 10 Years Ago
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Yes Frank please do! I was thinking of doing the old scrub chain trick from the head to the frame, but I have no threaded ports on the front of the left head. Also what you suggest sounds and will look a LOT better!
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By pegleg - 10 Years Ago
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Rob/Chuck,
I tried to get a photo of the mount onto the computer, but I must not have enough reception here at the house to send it from the phone.
The idea is to run a 3/8 0r 5/16 bolt thru the lower rubber steel to steel. I'm not certain of the shape of the '56 mount. However the 57 is shaped like a "C". I drill the lower portion, insert a bolt through and use a lock nut with about 3/16 or a 1/4 inch of clearance so the thing does not vibrate under nrmal street acceleration. I'll try get the photo to load tomorrow when I get closer to 4 bars on the phone away from the house. Hope this make sense!
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By PF Arcand - 10 Years Ago
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Rob: A side note. If the existing bolts have no markings, they're likely grade 2 or 3 bolts..
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By Canadian Hot Rodder - 10 Years Ago
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Frank,
Not sure if you can open my attached file, but you got me thinking about what you said. I got some grade 8 bolts for my motor mount, but just thought about doing this (attached pic) as a way of making a torque strap on my motor mount. Running a strap under the mount bolt (could use a stud and double nut) then running that strap under the frame mount and bolting it with a second nut on the frame stud. If that makes sense! lol Would work the same as chaining the left head to the frame, but would not be noticeable. Thoughts???
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By parklane - 10 Years Ago
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Canadian Hot Rodder (3/30/2015)
LOL you may be right Brodie, but was just wondering about the extra torque my new motor puts out, whether it is possible to snap a bolt head off?
Hey, you forget, you're talking Ford here, not Dodge. LOL ;-)
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By pegleg - 10 Years Ago
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Rob, Your mounts are different from the 57. I'll use my daughter's phone to get a shot. My El Cheapo won't cut it.
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By Canadian Hot Rodder - 10 Years Ago
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parklane (4/6/2015)
Canadian Hot Rodder (3/30/2015)
LOL you may be right Brodie, but was just wondering about the extra torque my new motor puts out, whether it is possible to snap a bolt head off? Hey, you forget, you're talking Ford here, not Dodge. LOL ;-)
Yeh I know I'm taking Ford, a Doge wouldn't have the power to break a motor mount! LOL And I wait and see what you mean Frank, but what did you think of my idea?
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By Y block Billy - 10 Years Ago
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Rob, sometimes a harder bolt is not the solution, a grade 2 will stretch and be forgiving, a harder bolt will pop the head off with any abnornal stress.
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By pegleg - 10 Years Ago
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That will work Rob, just limit the travel to something like a 1/4 inch or so.
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By 2721955meteor - 10 Years Ago
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this post is a touch silley,first a grade 8 bolt is far more elastic than grade 5, agrade10 is more britel than a 8 but stronger,it wont handel flexing situation.regarding the moter mounts ford used the same style of mount rigt up to 406 /427,just 1more bolt on the blockso i think we ar into over kill,new grad 5 will work fine ,grade 8 if they ar same price will never brake.
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By MoonShadow - 10 Years Ago
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Frank, Was your method to drill through the rubber and insert a loose bolt as a add on safety for the mount? Chuck
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By Canadian Hot Rodder - 10 Years Ago
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pegleg (4/7/2015)
That will work Rob, just limit the travel to something like a 1/4 inch or so.
Will do Frank. I have installed grade 8 bolts into the block and think I will fab up this strap method. Just some cheap insurance to prevent what happened to Bob Martin when he first raced his motor!
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By pegleg - 10 Years Ago
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Happened to me too. Luckily the RH mount held. tore the left in half!
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By John Mummert - 10 Years Ago
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Regarding Ford factory bolts, many were unmarked, regardless of strength. I'm guessing they bought bolt for specific applications, specified the grade and stored them for a particular use. Bellhousing to block, intake manifold, exhaust manifold, motor mount, timing cover, some rocker arm bolts, fan to water pump were unmarked. I doubt they were all grade 2.
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