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By cliffs 56 lincoln - 10 Years Ago
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i have a 56 lincoln with a stock 368 and my engine temp creeps up when i am idling i have had the rad checked and its good and correct for the car 160 thermstat . temp will easly go over 200 degrees .everything is stock .is it normal for old cars to get that hot in traffic?.
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By Cliff - 10 Years Ago
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Check for rust buildup in the block, open the drains on each side and see if they flow water and or pull the lowest freeze plugs (hard job)
Cliff
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By RB - 10 Years Ago
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What type gauge are you using to measure the temp? Has it ever boiled over? What pressure is the cap rated for?
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By Brodie55 - 10 Years Ago
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What is the rating of the radxiator cap? A 7psi cap will raise the boiling point of water to about 235 degrees F. Assuming you run a mixture of anti freeze, it would even be higher. I don't see a need to panic just yet, but a thorough cooling system inspection and tune-up couldn't hurt. Maybe a reverse flush, hose, belts and cap and fresh coolant. BTW, the thermostat rating is immaterial to engine cooling.
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By GREENBIRD56 - 10 Years Ago
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If you find the engine block has a lot of rust - try the white vinegar on it. Drain the water enough to put a gallon of vinegar in there as a temporary flush. It can loosen a lot of crud and let it be flushed out.
With a near cold engine, and cap off the radiator - run it at idle and wait for the thermostat to open. Hopefully started off warm enough that you aren't on fast idle. Is there a good sign of water moving into the upper tank of the rad? When the idle speed is low - if the engine isn't spinning the water pump fast enough, heat can begin to build quickly. My outfit is a 312 so NOT the same engine family - but when at low idle - auto trans in gear - water was barely stirring into my radiator. Shifting to neutral made a speed difference you could see in the tank, the water was moving. Water temp cooled a bit.
If you are idling the Lincoln in traffic - and the heat gets up on your gage - what happens when you pull over and shift to neutral? Does a small increase of pump speed help the situation?
Another situation to check out - what is your spark timing when the car is stopped and in gear. Takes a friend or wiff to help do this safely. Bumping the advance a couple of degrees can help a lot - the engines don't like to run at slow speed with little or no spark advance.
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By 2721955meteor - 10 Years Ago
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200 IS NOT HOT,WITH A GOOD RAD CAP AND ANTYFREEZE 210 IS NOT A ISUE,OF COARSE IN NUTRALAND ENGINE REVED MOR WATER WILL FLOW,THIS IS NO INDICATER OF A ISUE. PREV POST RE TEMPGAUGE,BOROW A HEAT GUN AND SEE WHAT TEMP IS. ELECT GUAGES AR NOT ACURATE
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By Baby Blue 57 - 10 Years Ago
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If all was ck'd with previous posts, here's another to look at. Is there any teflon tape around the temp sending unit? if car is not boiling over might be getting incorrect reading from sending unit. Here's another fix look for a smaller in diameter water pump pulley it will turn the water pump faster at an idle! plus make sure belt groves are same dimension and offset is same. Usually a six cylinder ford works well but ck a few out at swap meets. Worked for me on my 312 T-Bird awhile back
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By ponymare - 10 Years Ago
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It could be the fins are about rusted off the water pump too.
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By Ted - 10 Years Ago
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If it’s not boiling out coolant, then it’s not running hot ….yet. While 200° is not hot enough to be concerned about, the cooling system is obviously being compromised at low rpms. Assuming the engine temperature is lower when the car is at speed, any kind of heating problem while simply sitting in traffic would point me to the water pump rpm, fan, and/or fan shroud. As Steve brings up, the block itself could have some sediment in it thus contributing to the problem.
Not knowing much about the early Lincolns and any cooling problems related to those particular cars, I can’t say one way or another if you’re dealing with a design problem or an issue that has come about due to a natural degradation in the cooling system.
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By GREENBIRD56 - 10 Years Ago
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I went back looking at old "problem / solution" posts - and here is an illustration of an item that would impede low rpm cooling a bit:
A small thermostat poppet adapted to fit a large water passage by fitting it into a washer. You might have the proper opening temperature, but something like this reducing the "gallons per minute" actually going through the radiator.
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By 2721955meteor - 10 Years Ago
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Something that has not bin mentioned is the heat transfer of a rad is not as dependent on volum of water passing threw the rad,but the amount of air to enable proper heat transfer. Of coarce you need water threw the cores, but air flow going threw the rad, and not over or under,more importanley recirculating of hot air. this is info from cat product info in failure analisis book. this was also confermed on a group with a tbird who did a verry good brain storm and actual test and posted hear
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