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By joey - 10 Years Ago
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My '56 Bird, restored vehicle, has run strong and trouble-free for 20,000+ miles. Lately--happened 4 times now--it cuts out (really suddenly, as if someone has pulled the coil wire). Has happened hot or cold, at idle and under full load at 40 mph. When this occurs it will crank and crank, but won't restart.
Wait around for a minute or two, and it starts and runs perfect, like nothing was ever wrong.
I've cleaned the battery connections, replaced points, condenser, made sure distributor and coil wires are tight, performed visual check of other wires....just common sense stuff. I can tell you that it feels more electrical-oriented rather than fuel delivery, but that's just my opinion.
What should I check next? Ballast resistor? Any and all advice appreciated.
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By NoShortcuts - 10 Years Ago
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Hmmmm... My thinking on this is clouded by an isolated experience that sticks in my brain. However, this happened for me ONLY when the car was warmed up to normal operating temperature.
IF you have a spare ignition coil, try substituting it for the one currently installed.
For a component that has no moving parts, how the two transformer windings can short out is beyond me!
I'm sure that others on here will have suggestions, too. Let us know what you finally find, Joey.
Regards,
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By Pete 55Tbird - 10 Years Ago
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I had this happen on a car with points when the ground wire inside the distributor ( tiny braided wire) was loose? broken and it would run and cut out. Easy to lift the cap and check. Pete
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By Meandean - 10 Years Ago
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Might also try a different coil wire. I think my father had a similar situation and there was a break inside the wire that would alternately work, then not, then work again. Just a thought. Probably something else, but easy/cheap to do, and worth a try.
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By joey - 10 Years Ago
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Yeah, this is a car with points. In fact I replaced them a couple months ago. Maybe there's something amiss in there--worth a look. Will also replace coil and coil wire, as I have spares on hand. Thanks gents.
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By MoonShadow - 10 Years Ago
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Also check the condenser wire inside the distributor. They have been known to break but don't show it because of the braided cover. Chuck
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By joey - 10 Years Ago
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Yes, thanks. I did change one condenser for another, and the problem continues the same..
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By joey - 10 Years Ago
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One other thing to point out...often when this problem occurs, you turn the ignition key to start and you get no cranking, but instead hear only a single click. Return the key back and try again...it cranks like normal.
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By Pete 55Tbird - 10 Years Ago
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To trouble shoot this you could HOT WIRE your ignition. BUT BE CAREFUL. This by passes the neutral safety switch and the car will start in ANY GEAR not just park or neutral. Run a wire with a quick way to disconnect ( alligator clip ) from the coil + or _ depending on 12 volt positive or negative ground to the battery HOT side and eliminate the ignition switch and ballast from the ignition system. CAR IN PARK OR NEUTRAL use a remote starter to start the car. Take it for a short drive and see what happens. More info is on GOOGLE if you need it. Pete
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By pegleg - 10 Years Ago
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Can't help with the starting issue, bt as Charlie told you, try another coil. Often the coils will overheat, short out and cease to function. then as they cool off they will work again. I've also had it happen to me.
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By bayboy - 10 Years Ago
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had the same problem on a 73 bronco it would stop wait a bit then it would re start replaced the ignition switch end of problem
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By 56_Fairlane - 10 Years Ago
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I'm thinking it might be the ballast resistor.
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By joey - 10 Years Ago
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It was the coil to distributor wire. It had folded and made a bend right before the end connected to the coil. Although you couldn't see it, that's where the interruption was. Straighten it out, and it would fire up again. Replaced the wire (also a couple others) and we're good to go. Thank you all for your helpful advice.
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By petew - 10 Years Ago
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Is this by chance a 3 speed manual with overdrive ? If so there is a ignition interrupt feature when you floor the accelerator pedal. This allows the tranny to drop out of OD for a passing gear of sorts. This is controlled by the switch that is under the accelerator pedal , I have seen the switches go bad in the past.
Pete
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By CK - 10 Years Ago
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I was thinking along the lines of the resetable fuse. There are a few under the dash and pretty much all power flows through them.
If it's faulty then it will do exactly as your describing, especially considering the starting issue loosing all power and the lose of ignition etc.. how would a coil wire cut the power to the started solenoid?
So these fuses work like a relay yet when over heated by to much energy the contacts pri apart and wammo no more power and then they cool and magically the power returns. So even if you haven't overloaded it with extra goodies, it may just be needing replacement.
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By Y block Billy - 10 Years Ago
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Had a similar problem with my 82 F600 ramp truck with a duraspark ignition, would run great for weeks and then all of a sudden cut out at the most in oppertune time. Found it was a wire in the main harness had a slight chafe in it and would short out the wire to the distributor on a little sharp edge of the inner fender, drove me nuts till I found it.
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By jdwilker - 10 Years Ago
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Had this happen to me on a car that had the coil in a horizontal position. It was a oil filled coil and after about 5 years was doing exactly what you described. Went to a epoxy filled coil and haven't had this problem again.
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