|
By Baby Blue 57 - 10 Years Ago
|
Hey Guys,
I know this always comes up once in a while what is the best oil on the market today to use in our Y-Block flat tappet engines? It gets confussing with the amount of ZDDP, synthetic vs standard etc. My question is my 292 is bone stock and was rebuilt 8,000 miles ago bought it and changed oil 6,000 miles ago used Valvoline Syn Tec runs fine great oil pressure etc. Want to change oil and continue to use a Synthetic grade but who's? Most guys I talk to say to use oil with Zinc and an oil with the most in it.
Amsoil, Mobil 1, Shell Rotella or Royal Purple? Any thoughts or help appreciated.
|
|
By Small block - 10 Years Ago
|
The latest standard is a Oil that meets the API SN certification any oil in this category has extreme load Carrying and ware protection! the brand you pick is up to you!
I use Pennzoil High Mileage because it is good Quality and is easy for me to get! Experts Say a Spark fired engine should not use a API C classified Engine oil that is made to be used in a Compression fired Engine meaning
a diesel!
|
|
By Dobie - 10 Years Ago
|
|
I know a lot of guys run diesel oil for the zinc, but I have concerns about the detergent package in them being too harsh for a gas engine over time. I run the PennZoil high mileage oil.
|
|
By 62bigwindow - 10 Years Ago
|
|
I am using Valvoline VR1 racing oil. Has high levels of zddp. Higher the even Brad Penn has. Plus you can get it locally so that's an added bonus.
|
|
By steinauge - 10 Years Ago
|
|
I am(and have been) using Castrol 20-50 with 4 oz of Redline additive each oil change.I change oil every 2 thousand miles.
|
|
By PF Arcand - 10 Years Ago
|
What oil to use in our Y-Blocks always brings up 100 opinions on what is suitable.. Our moderator Ted has reservations about the regular use of Diesel rated oils, and Racing oils are just that, intended for that purpose, not for long term use on the street. For flat tappet engines, the use of modern oils with the "pin wheel gear" logo on the container, is likely not the best choice, because all those oils are intended for late model "roller valve train" engines with full emission controls. Those oils have reduced anti - scuff additives, apparently to avoid damaging emission control parts.(government required) Flat tappet engines need the anti scuff additives. So, generally speaking, most 10-40 & up oils (without the"pinwheel" on the label) will have adequate anti-scuff additives... As for the use of Synthetics vs regular oils in flat tappet engines, I won't venture an uninformed opinion on that subject..
|
|
By 57RancheroJim - 10 Years Ago
|
There has been so much information and misinformation and myths about oils it's enough to make your head spin.
I have recently read about the not to use diesel oils in gas engines. I was given a huge amount of Delo 10-40 conventional oil about 10 years ago and have been using it in my 223 six ever since with no problems so far..
After rebuilding my 292 I've been using Joe Gibbs HR 10-30 conventional, I'm just not crazy about using synthetics, just a personal choice. BUT! I have been using Valvoline VR1 in my 390FE that has a solid lifter cam for the past three years without any issues.
Here is something to read if you have some extra time.
https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/
|
|
By Small block - 10 Years Ago
|
When We were rebuilding my engine OI contacted Pennzoil to find out what They recommended for a oil for 1950's engines, What they told me was, The best lubrication I could get for my old engine was a API SN grade oil!
I asked about using an oil rated for the older cars I was told those oils are obsolete and do not have adequate protection for any engine! The latest grade of oil has the best load holding and anti scuff protection than any oil made before! One more thing I forgot to add was they were adamant do not use any additive of any type, Some additives have chemicals that will work against the property's of the oil and will decrease the protection!
|
|
By HT32BSX115 - 10 Years Ago
|
57RancheroJim (9/12/2015)
Guys,
The above article is actually worth taking the time to read.!!!
Many of us have WRONGLY selected higher viscosity oils thinking they're "better" for break-in and for older engines for many years.
Nothing could be further from the truth. (As evidenced by the fact that MANY new engine manufacturers use 5W-30 as a factory fill on zero-time engines) Also the myth of "higher ZDDP" means better wear protection is still alive, but completely DEBUNKED by the above article.
It's LONG and somewhat boring. But I strongly suggest anyone wanting to know what oil to use, read it in it's entirety.
Cheers,
Rick
|
|
By Small block - 10 Years Ago
|
I have to agree with you on that there is some good information there , I have also seen some guys on speed talk shoot this down but they have no proof of what there saying,
just lots of talk
|
|
By lovefordgalaxie - 10 Years Ago
|
I use Havolite 20W50 API SJ oil, that has enough ZDDP to a flat tappet engine.
Recently the Ipiranga oil company also re launched it's 20W40 and 20W50 SJ oils that the labeled "antique car oil"
Since my engine required MS oil from the factory, the good old SJ is kind of a overkill, hahahahahaha.
I also use the Havoline on my S10 with a 4,3 V6, and on my 2001 Ford Focus, with a Zetec 16V 1.8 liter engine. The Focus has 175.000 kilometers on it, what is just above 100K miles, and the engine is like new. Had to replace the catalytic converter once, but that's about all. When you tale the oil filler off, you can see one of the two camshafts, and it's like new. The engine has the same compression Ford lists for a new engine, burns no oil, and has lot's of power (for a tiny 1.8 liter it is).
My '82 Galaxie with a Windsor 302 also uses only Havoline 20W50 SJ. When I bought the car back in 1997, she had 32.000 Kms from new, and today she has 87.000. No change in compression, the engine is very clean, and runs like new.
|
|
By Rusty_S85 - 10 Years Ago
|
|
I run Valvoline VR1 Racing oil 20w50 conventional. On the back it states it has high ZDDP levels for use in antique/classic vehicles as well as all flat tappet engines.
|
|
By Ted - 10 Years Ago
|
The oil is only part of the equation when eliminating the potential for cam lobe and/or lifter failure. Here’s the link to a list of items that can contribute to cam and lifter wear/failure and the oil is simply only one of them.
http://www.eatonbalancing.com/blog/2012/11/06/camshaft-and-lifter-failure-causes-2/
As a general rule, a flat tappet camshaft will require an oil with at least a 30 viscosity rating (ie: 30W, 5W-30, 10W-30, etc.) for break-in. The heavier weight oils have a higher film strength which in turn allows the lifter to rotate easier against the action of the camshaft lobes. While a reduced weight oil may flow better when cold within the confines of a new engine, the shear properties associated with a heavier weight oil are needed where high pressure contact is taking place (lobes/tappets). That’s the simplified explanation but the brand of oil and its properties have to be at the top of the list.
Almost all cam lobe and/or tappet failures start within the first few seconds of an engine firing off but it may take as much as twenty minutes of running for this to come to the forefront if the wear problem is bad enough. If you can get past that initial fail point, then all is going to be well for many miles.
|
|
By Canadian Hot Rodder - 10 Years Ago
|
I use Amsoil 10W-30 as it states specifically on the bottle for use on motors with flat tappet cams. A little expensive, but at one oil change a season, it is worth it on my Y-Block!
|