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By F100Jay - 9 Years Ago
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Hi Guys, wondering if you can help. I've got a Y Block in my F100. Its not the original engine, it was fitted some point later in its life. I was told its a 272cu, but if im right looking at the casting it number its actually a 292cu. Am i right? It appears to be B9AE
I have an issue with it where it hesitates now and then and back fires. Feels like the advance isnt working correctly, also the points need changing. I did order some which i thought were correct but they werent.
I've decided to go with an electronic distrubutor, but i need to know which to order. Im unsure if my dizzy is Load-o-Matic or not. Can you tell from this picture?
Any help is appreciated.
Kind Regards,
Jay
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By Y block Billy - 9 Years Ago
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your dizzy is not the loadomatic, the loadomatics you can see the two advance springs on top of the points plate. As far as points go, I think all points 57 up through the seventies were the same for Y's, FE's and small block fords so finding points shouldn't be an issue. I have used the first series petronics for years on one of my cars without issue if you want to go the least expensive electronic conversion.
B9AE would be a 292.
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By F100Jay - 9 Years Ago
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Brilliant. Thanks for the help. Also a little bonus discovering its a 292cu.
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By Y block Billy - 9 Years Ago
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B9AE could even be a 312 if from Merc but would need to check Main bearing caps for ECZ!
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By oldcarmark - 9 Years Ago
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If You decide to go with Pertronix make sure You get at least Pertronix 2. The original Pertronix will burn out quickly if you leave the Key turned to "run" position and its not running. I.E You are working on it but not running. Pertronix 2 addressed this Issue. Check the copper colored braided ground Wire under the breaker plate to be sure its intact. As the breaker plate moves it can separate the grounding if that wire is not in good shape.
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By charliemccraney - 9 Years Ago
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Before throwing parts at it, find the cause of the problem.
You think it has to do with the advance so:
Observe the advance with a timing light and graph it every 100rpm or so to see if there is an issue in the way it advances.
Take a look at the advance mechanism to make sure everything is good, no broken springs, no excessive wear.
Test the vacuum advance with a vacuum pump.
You can also test the vacuum advance by simply disconnecting it and plugging the vacuum line. If the problem goes away, it's probably the vacuum advance.
It could also be a carb problem and new ignition components won't fix that.
That said, if the distributor is original to either the truck or engine, then it is time for a rebuild or replacement of the distributor. It very well could be the issue but if you don't troubleshoot, don't expect a new distributor to solve the problem and be prepared to spend more money before it is fixed.
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By NoShortcuts - 9 Years Ago
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Charlie. Is there the possibility of the timing marks having moved on the crankshaft pulley?
Thanks for the help on this. I'm unclear what engine applications that was an issue with. 
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By F100Jay - 9 Years Ago
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I've rebuilt the carb a when i got it the floats were sticking. Its much better since. It runs well in general, but its not quite there. The dizzy is very worn, points corroded and pitted, its definitely in need of a refresh. May aswell take the oppertunity to convert it over to electronic. I appreciate the help.
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By Outlaw56 - 9 Years Ago
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Can anyone tell me how to tell the difference between the Original Pertronix and the Pertronix 2?
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By charliemccraney - 9 Years Ago
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Look for the label on it.
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By Outlaw56 - 9 Years Ago
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I thought it was a Pertronix but its a MSD 8383. Thats in a stock 292 with an Edelbrock 500 Thunder Series. I have never started the engine due to the project still in progress. Meanwhile I am working on another project. Its a stock 272 that ran good when I last started it. I have converted it over from a two barrell to a four barrell and am looking at options for electronic distributer and carberator. I would like to consider something that will not only run the stock 272, but also would be a good fit if I ever rebuild the 272 to a 292. Is there an advantage to the Pertronix I, II, III, over the MSD 8383? I was a little surprised to see what I paid for the MSD 8383 and am considering other alternatives for the 272/292 in the future.
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By Outlaw56 - 9 Years Ago
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I see some rebuilt durasparks on Ebay in the $225 range but they are not electronic.
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By oldcarmark - 9 Years Ago
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I just ran across this listing on Ebay. Item # 301870694314, Seller has reconditioned and re-curved Y-Block Distributors. Some converted to Dura-Spark, original Spec re-conditioned Dizzy's, and original with re-curved Advance. Seems to know what He is talking about. Has them for other Ford Engines also.
Worth having a look at his Products.
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By charliemccraney - 9 Years Ago
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The MSD 8383 is an entire, brand new distributor, which is much more user friendly to tune, compared to a stock distributor. That is apples and oranges as far as cost goes, compared only to an electonic convesion.
Duraspark is electronic. The difference is that you must use an external box with a duraspark distributor. The MSD 8383 and conversions like Pertronix do not require a box.
Again, as far as advantages, it's an apples and oranges thing, complete distributor vs only a conversion.
When I had the Ignitor II, in a freshly rebuilt distributor, with matching coil and wires, I noticed no difference at all over points. So with the Ignitors, the III is probably what you want to have a chance that it is better than points. Assuming everything else is in tip top shape, I don't think you will notice any difference at all with only the 8383 or only a pertronix conversion - you'll need some sort of box as well.
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By Outlaw56 - 9 Years Ago
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Is the Ignitor I, II, and III the same as the Pertronix I, II, and III? All just converstion kits to change over stock distributers?
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By charliemccraney - 9 Years Ago
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They are the Pertronix Ignitor. They are available 3 different ways, I, II, III. They are just conversions.
MSD, Mallory, and those Chinese MSD copies on eBay are the only companies that produce a complete distributor for a Y
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By Outlaw56 - 9 Years Ago
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Ill have to check my MSD. Hopefully it was not a Chinese version. It looks to me like I can pick up another MSD 8383 for less than it would cost me to get a rebuilt Duraspark ($225), wire harness Duraspark to MMS Box ($17), and a MMS Box with Mag Pickup ($240).
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By charliemccraney - 9 Years Ago
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I don't know what MMS is so I may be out of line here.
Now we are not talking apples to apples about hardware. Duraspark with an aftermarket box will be better than MSD 8383 without a box, so even though the Duraspark arrangement may cost a little more, it should be better and get the most for your money.
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By 2721955meteor - 9 Years Ago
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I have had a duraspark 2 on my ranchero for 2years now,works great, it was easey to convert the original to dura spark,went to the wrecker and picked up 3 ditributors with dura,useing the pickup and reluctor in the old dist, and a used ford box.,increased plug gap as wellThere was some good info on conversion at this site. ther is a provision on the later boxes to retard the timeing at crank. milage beter,more responsive,will be converting to the newer coil shortley.
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By oldcarmark - 9 Years Ago
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Hopefully Steve Metzger -Greenbird will see this Topic and give his Expertise. He's done Duraspark Conversions and other interesting Ignition Setups. If you go back to some of his Postings You will see what He has done.
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By Outlaw56 - 9 Years Ago
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charliemccraney (3/6/2016)
I don't know what MMS is so I may be out of line here. Now we are not talking apples to apples about hardware. Duraspark with an aftermarket box will be better than MSD 8383 without a box, so even though the Duraspark arrangement may cost a little more, it should be better and get the most for your money.
My fault, meant MSD, not MMS.
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By Outlaw56 - 9 Years Ago
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Is there a big difference in cost between the MSD box compatible with the Duraspark and a stock ford box for the Durabox? Not sure what options I have for a box if I go with the rebuilt duraspark distributer available on Ebay.
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By charliemccraney - 9 Years Ago
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Yes, there is a big difference in cost, probably at least double but you get something better with an aftermarket box.
You can use just about any aftermarket box there is with a Duraspark distributor so your options are many.
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By 2721955meteor - 9 Years Ago
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wher i live in western canada there are lots of dura spark 2 boxes in the wreckers for 25 to 30 cn dollers.,includeing a distributor from 302 with all the other spare parts. have several frends that have much grief with msd electronic systems, but we in canada and our low $ look for a inexpensive solution that work.
the real test will come from ted and his dyno. I am convinced the duraspark solution makes most sense for every day street ride.
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By F100Jay - 9 Years Ago
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Has anyone bought one of these off ebay? Or am i wasting my money?
Ebay - Dizzy
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By GREENBIRD56 - 9 Years Ago
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Just stumbled in ..........other projects have seriously impeded my Y-block experiences....
Jay -
Remove your distributor - first mark the rotor direction and housing direction - take a few pictures of the alignment as you go. Disassemble and carefully clean it up so it all works freely - advance mechanisms and all. The ground wire mentioned earlier is easy to overlook - don't. High temp silicone caliper grease works well down inside the advance mechanism - just don't overdo it.
Get a new set of points and condenser and install them to spec - easy to set the points cold on a bench. As someone mentioned - there is a huge year spread where the parts will fit.
Put the distributor back in the engine - in time, with the correct firing order. Verify the firing order again, the distributor rotates counter clockwise.
Make sure the coil connections are correct and the coil itself appears in good shape.
Start the engine and set the initial idle timing. Specs usually say otherwise - but these engines - stock - "like" about 10º.
This is basic stuff - but the electricals should now be in good enough shape to tune the carb. When the engine will start quickly and runs nicely - then its time to consider modifying the spark system.................
I am way in favor of using the Ford Duraspark II distributor as a basis for building an electronic system. In my mind, reliability is key - and parts must be readily available.
(1) They utilize simple and rugged factory Ford spark advance systems. Can be tuned to suit your own use with a little knowhow.
(2) The trigger system is absolutely bulletproof - even makes its own electrical power for the output signal.
(3) When you have a reliable trigger / advance mechanism - they can be used with any number of factory or commercial controllers. Because Ford used a modular system, the chosen control box can be located in a cooler, convenient service location - not inside a distributor on the backside of a hot engine.
Rebuilders have used two different distributor bodies for constructing replacement Y-block distributors. The Autolite - and the Motorcraft. The base stems of the housings differ for a quick identification - the Autolites have some round concentric rings and grooves just above the block fit - and the Motorcraft version has a three lobed "cam" sort of shape. If you find a Motorcraft based rebuild - with a Y-block lower shaft and drive gear - the conversion is a breeze. The parts for a Duraspark II distributor (say for a 1975 302 Maverick) will transfer and install directly into the housing. If the housing is an Autolite - the upper rotor shaft must be modified by removing the point cam - and machining it to fit a "reluctor" - the 8 bladed timing armature of the Duraspark II. Once you have the modified part in hand - the rest of the conversion is pretty straight forward.
Once you have an electronic trigger equipped distributor - all sorts of things are possible. The mechanical spark advance curved may be changed - the behavior of the vacuum advance can be altered - and so on. The coil controllers may be changed - the regular old Ford box can be used - or a GM or Chrysler if you want - many options are available. My own choice has been to use reliable parts from the "BIG 3" - with some judicious substitutions from the aftermarket. I have more specific detailed information I can give you by email if you send me a PM with an address.
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By F100Jay - 9 Years Ago
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Thank you for that. That was really in depth. Im on a learning curve here with it all. All my tuning experience comes from modern race cars, all with ECU's. When i got my truck i literally knew nothing about carbs and distributors.
I have order'd a new electronic distributor as posted above. I've also bought a new carb, My y-block came with a 600cfm Holley and its using silly amounts of fuel and i feel its too big for the engine and spec. So i've purchased a 500cfm Edelbrock.
Will be a case now of fitting and tuning it all to work. Hoping it runs alot better and uses a little less fuel. At the moment it doesnt seem to want to rev past 3500'sh rpm..
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By Pete 55Tbird - 9 Years Ago
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If you fool around with old cars with carbs you will find that " most carburetor problems are electrical" Pete
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By Talkwrench - 9 Years Ago
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Get a reconditioned dizzy for staters [or if you can do it yourself] before even thinking of putting the electronic unit in . As what Charlie said. Try a Pertronix 3 and matching coil, if you shop around its not that expensive and you get multi spark throughout the rev range and a rev limiter. Make sure your getting the full 12 volts to it when installed.
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