One problem has surfaced with viton tipped float needles and modern alcohol laced fuels.  The alcohol softens the viton and it will then stick in the seat.  The teapot is supposed to have a little clip that attaches to the needle and the float, so the weight of the float will help pull the needle off the seat if fuel pressure alone can't do it.  That little clip is not always installed, I heard recently of a nationally acclaimed carb rebuilder that says they don't bother installing those clips.  If you can easily deform the viton tip with your fingernail, it's too soft.  Replace it, and use the clip.

John

I have been known to dig the viton out of the needle and placing a small check ball in it's place.  Gives me a steel ball needle very similar to the originals on teapots.  Take a small hammer and a punch and tap the ball into the seat a few times before you assemble it.

With the top of the carb off, you can see two pairs of D shaped cavities, back to back.  Look closely, there is a very small hole drilled between each of the pair of cavities.  This is actually the fuel mixture orifice for the idle circuit.  Air is mixed with the fuel there, and the idle screws actually only control the volume of air/fuel mixture to the idle passage.  Open that small hole to .027, and the flat spot off idle will disappear.  Don't make it bigger than that, or it will be too rich at idle.

John in Selma, IN

My other question regarding this suggestion is about the distributor.I assume you must have gone with the 57-up distributor with both vacuum and centrifugal advance?I dont think the original dist. can be used correct?Thanks for your input.Mark

other than that there is a place in Arizona that rebuilds carbs. I think its called Arizona carburetor or carburetor rebuilders. That place has millions of carburetors and sell fairly inexpensively. They do want an exchange carb but it odesnt have to be the same carb. I paid 245.00 for my carb. I wil let you have it for 125.00 including shipping.