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By Half-dude - 9 Years Ago
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Hey guys,
So I've decided to break down and buy a whole new radiator for my 55' after the consistent hot running I've been getting. After trying everything else, a radiator flush, installing a new temp gauge so see if the original gauge was just off, adjusting the timing ect.
My thing is, I'm wanting to stay as original, or original in appearance as I can. There are some nice radiators out there like Champion makes one, but they're so darn ugly I think! Flat sharp angles, ugly weld marks everywhere.. looks really cheap to me compared to the rounded pressed metal look of the original that came with the car. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1955-1956-Ford-Fairlane-V8-Champion-3-Row-Aluminum-Radiator-CC5456-/181664018557?hash=item2a4c04f07d:g:xloAAOSwrklU2lcq&vxp=mtr
Thing is I don't know anything about radiators, the performance difference between 2 or 3 cores, if there's a performance difference between brass or aluminum, ect. I'm curious, would any modern 'remake' radiator be better performing then the original 55' radiator? Not because of being cleaner, but just because of modern engineering chances since the 50s.
This is the only OEM style radiator I've managed to find and it's on auction so I don't know if I can get it. Are there any other sites for getting original looking radiators? http://www.ebay.com/itm/1954-1955-1956-Ford-Fairlane-3-Row-Radiator-SA/401201467998?_trksid=p2045573.c100033.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131017132637%26meid%3Dde87bde6cc5e46658cce2e4c1bf49529%26pid%3D100033%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D8%26sd%3D401198977061
For a stock engine would a standard radiator do the job? Or do you think because of possible corrosion in the engine channels I'd need to get a higher performance radiator to alleviate my overheating issues?
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By Ted - 9 Years Ago
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I finally broke down last April and put a Champion radiator in my ’55 Customline. The original radiator had been recored a couple of different times and the soldered seal on the top tank has been problematic over the years. Prompting the change this time was a flute (vertical core) that was seeping and looked to be simply rotting again which was going to require another recore. While the aluminum radiator doesn’t look stock anymore, some black paint on the top of the tank would help in that department. I ran the car at the Big Bend Open Road Race immediately after installing the radiator and there were zero issues with the cooling. Temperature stayed in the 165-170°F range the whole length of the race (118 miles) with the car hitting 110 mph in some of the straights.
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By Half-dude - 9 Years Ago
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Good to know, and where you having bad overheating problems with your old radiator too?
I kinda figured that smooth aluminum wouldn't take paint very well, maybe I was wrong.
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By Kahuna - 9 Years Ago
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Half Dude
Aluminum paints up real good
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By paul2748 - 9 Years Ago
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I have a U S Radiator 3 row (copper) in my 64 Fairlane and am happy with it. I didn't have any prior heating problems though. I bought it because I replaced the six with a 302.
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By Ted - 9 Years Ago
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Half-dude (10/9/2016)
Good to know, and where you having bad overheating problems with your old radiator too?
I kinda figured that smooth aluminum wouldn't take paint very well, maybe I was wrong.
A little sanding and some primer before shooting the black should suffice for deterring any paint adhesion problems.
I really wasn’t having any overheating issues before changing out the radiator other than some temperature rise in slow or stopped traffic. I attributed that to the original three bladed fan and no fan shroud.
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By Half-dude - 9 Years Ago
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Well I know somethings wrong, because my car goes hot just about as fast or FASTER when going on the highway.
Going just 30 miles away to a car-show turned into a nightmare a couple weeks ago. My non-stock temp gauge started reading up around 215 degrees on the highway. We had to pull off halfway there and sit about an hour to cool down just so we could continue.. <: /
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By charliemccraney - 9 Years Ago
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If the problem exists at highway speed, then we know it is not related to airflow or pump speed.
My first thought in that situation is that the thermostat is not functioning correctly; it is not opening completely or possibly not at all. This is easy to check by observing a known good thermostat and then observing your current thermostat. You can boil them in a pot of water or use a heat gun.to make the observation.
Another is that the water pump impeller has rusted sufficiently to make it practically ineffective.
If the radiator is quite old or even original, it could be clogged and therefore not functioning at maximum capacity.
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By petew - 9 Years Ago
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Griffin Radiators , expensive but made in America , aluminum ,well built , tanks look very close to original and they cool wonderfully . I have Griffin Radiators in my 55 Tbird, 56 Mercury and my 27 Ford hot rod.
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By Ted - 9 Years Ago
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Half-dude (10/11/2016)
Well I know somethings wrong, because my car goes hot just about as fast or FASTER when going on the highway.
Going just 30 miles away to a car-show turned into a nightmare a couple weeks ago. My non-stock temp gauge started reading up around 215 degrees on the highway. We had to pull off halfway there and sit about an hour to cool down just so we could continue.. <: /
If the engine is not puking water, then question the actual termperature.
Add these items to the list that Charlie started.
Slipping fan belt
Lower radiator hose is collapsing when rpms are up (Got a spring in it?)
You have a fan that’s actually stopping the air flow thru the radiator at speed
Head gaskets installed backwards
Block is full of sediment
Inaccurate temperature gauge
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By Shaggy - 9 Years Ago
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Something is really wrong IF you are overheating at speed. Try the stuff already mentioned. You should be loosing a lot of water due to not having a puke can with these extreme heat cycles. Is the system even pressurizing?(dont pop the cap, squeeze a hose instead) If not then you arent hot. If you overheat at idle, try idleing with a garden hose running in the radiator.
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By Half-dude - 9 Years Ago
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charliemccraney (10/11/2016)
My first thought in that situation is that the thermostat is not functioning correctly; it is not opening completely or possibly not at all. This is easy to check by observing a known good thermostat and then observing your current thermostat. You can boil them in a pot of water or use a heat gun.to make the observation. Another is that the water pump impeller has rusted sufficiently to make it practically ineffective. If the radiator is quite old or even original, it could be clogged and therefore not functioning at maximum capacity.
Thanks for the advice Charlie,
Here's what I know. I've actually changed the thermostat twice, the first time because I was a bit ignorant on the workings and thought getting a lower temp thermostat would make my car run cooler.. also I wanted to make sure I installed it correctly that first time. The one I have in now is a 180 degree thermostat I believe and yes.. before I put it in I did the boiling water on a stove trick to see if it opened properly which it did.
On the water-pump, it's actually a brand new water pump. A while back I posted a picture of the original which had a scale covered impeller and the guys on here said to change it.
: )
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By Half-dude - 9 Years Ago
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Ted (10/12/2016)
If the engine is not puking water, then question the actual termperature. Add these items to the list that Charlie started. Slipping fan belt Lower radiator hose is collapsing when rpms are up (Got a spring in it?) You have a fan that’s actually stopping the air flow thru the radiator at speed Head gaskets installed backwards Block is full of sediment Inaccurate temperature gauge
Well that's quite a thing isn't it? When we got off the highway where it was reading 215 degrees, I was looking at the radiator and there definitely wasn't anything I would refer to as 'puking.' By the time I'd got out and got the hood open there was just about half a glass of fluid on the ground and no more was coming out.. if so just drips. But we TESTED the gauge and thermo on a stove with water before we installed it! Bad heat pocket in the engine around where the termostat is perhaps????
-Fan belt? Maybe, I tightened it to the flex limit the original manual shows and I've never heard it squeal while driving.
-Yes the lower radiator hose has a spring in it.
-Fan stopping? You mean like having it installed backwards? I guess I could check, I did take the fan off to change the pump.. pretty dang sure it's on right though but I'll check again.
-I've only taken off one head while I've owned the car, the head on the passenger-side. I was incredibly careful every step of the way though, took pictures too that I could post if you want to make sure it got put on right.
-That's going to be my second guess if this doesn't fix it. I'm really hoping, are there shops that will deep clean your engine block if it IS full of sediment??
-I don't see how, we tested the temp gauge and sending unit on the stove with boiling water.. and it was accurate then.
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By Half-dude - 9 Years Ago
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Shaggy (10/12/2016)
Something is really wrong IF you are overheating at speed. Try the stuff already mentioned. You should be loosing a lot of water due to not having a puke can with these extreme heat cycles. Is the system even pressurizing?(dont pop the cap, squeeze a hose instead) If not then you arent hot. If you overheat at idle, try idleing with a garden hose running in the radiator.
I'll check the fluid level again, but I don't think I've lost a lot of fluid. The original cap was busted and wasn't pressurizing, but we've since put a 7lb cap on there.
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By charliemccraney - 9 Years Ago
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It does sound like you have checked most items.
RE the passenger side head gasket, where is the square corner of the gasket positioned? Even though you didn't change the other, how is it positioned?
You could take the radiator to a radiator shop for assessment before spending money on a new radiator.
If it comes to having the block cleaned, you can probably take care of that at home. With the block upside down, on an engine stand, use a coat hanger wire, poke around, flush with a hose, and repeat until no more debris comes out. This is something you would probably need to do even if you sent the block out for cleaning. Hot tanking won't remove all of that and you probably don't want to pay a shop hourly to do it.
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By Meandean - 9 Years Ago
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petew (10/11/2016)
Griffin Radiators , expensive but made in America , aluminum ,well built , tanks look very close to original and they cool wonderfully . I have Griffin Radiators in my 55 Tbird, 56 Mercury and my 27 Ford hot rod.
They don't appear to make stock-appearing radiators for '55 full size cars. Only T-Bird and trucks.
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By Half-dude - 9 Years Ago
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The little tab, if we're talking about the same tab, is sticking out of the top front corner on the passenger-side head. I took quite a while looking at and comparing the old and the new gasket to see if the holes matched up and if any holes in the old gasket were covered in the new gasket. I put some pictures up of the bare block with no gasket, and it with the gasket put on. Something kind of that stands out to me looking at it now, there are two channels on the bottom corners near the bolt holes that look like water passages. But on ever gasket I can find online and on mine I have installed, they're covered up. Man I really wish I had the old gasket still or a picture of it to double check. But surely that can't be a design flaw in the gasket!
Unfortunately I don't have the equipment to lift the engine out of the car at home. : /
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By Half-dude - 9 Years Ago
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Meandean (10/12/2016)
They don't appear to make stock-appearing radiators for '55 full size cars. Only T-Bird and trucks.
??
http://www.usradiator.com/radiators/ford/fairlane.html
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By charliemccraney - 9 Years Ago
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That gasket is installed correctly. What about the driver's side? The corner should be in a similar position, front, intake side.
Tool rental places often rent engine hoists and stands. Could be a cheaper option than paying someone to do it.
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By Half-dude - 9 Years Ago
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The gaskets that were on the engine when I took the head off (I'm assuming it's the same on the other head) are metal gaskets, they were completely metal I wouldn't be surprised if they were the originals from the 50s. There is no tab for those.
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By Meandean - 9 Years Ago
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Griffin Radiators was recommended.
http://www.griffinrad.com/exact_fit.php
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By Half-dude - 9 Years Ago
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Well looks like I might hold off on a new radiator. Are there any ways to do an at-home do it yourself sort of radiator clean with the radiator out and face down on the ground? Like maybe fill it with some kind of cleaning break-down solution and letting it sit in there for a day or so then flush it out?
I was also looking at the service manual last night and saw this in the overheating section, under note: in the book. I have it marked. I'm not exactly sure what it's meaning though, that if you have a sender that's too long and touching the bottom of the coolant passage it'll read hotter then it should be?
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By slumlord444 - 9 Years Ago
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It says insufficient clearance, not touching. Factory gauges are notoriously inaccurate. Just fired up my rebuilt 312 in my T Bird today. I went to the trouble of installing a second temperature gauge in addition to the stock gauge. Stewart Warner electric gauge with the sending unit installed in the passenger side head. It read 190-200 degrees while the stock gauge was on the low end of cool.
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By PF Arcand - 9 Years Ago
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As mentioned, installing an overflow container would be a good idea, to avoid losing (poisonous) coolent. It should have a hose in it to near the bottom, which will allow the coolent to syphon back when the rad cools. Also check that the rad cap is suitable & in good shape. If the rad is old, I'd suggest not using a cap over 13 lbs. Really old & suspect? Use a 7 lb.. Hope you solve the over heating problem..
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By Half-dude - 9 Years Ago
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slumlord444 (10/19/2016)
It read 190-200 degrees while the stock gauge was on the low end of cool.
Oh now? Sounds like you've got a bit of a cooling problem yourself then huh? I know the T-birds run a bit hotter though.
Is there a spot to put a second sender unit in the car? I noticed there's a plug in the side of the water-pump, would you be able to put one in there?
I finally picked up an inferred temperature gun also today. I'm also going to check my heat riser, I'm wondering if it's opening all the way when it's hot like it should. How much do you guys think a bad heat-riser would.. heh.. rise the heat?
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By charliemccraney - 9 Years Ago
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190 - 200 is no cooling problem. That is just about right and if it is stable withing that range, there is no problem at all.
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By slumlord444 - 9 Years Ago
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I put the second sender in the passenger side head. There is a hole there since the heads are interchangeable from right to left. May have had to get a threaded bushing to install in the head. Been over a year since I did that part. Yes I have had heating problems in the past. Now have a 6 blade clutch fan and a 16" electric fan in front of the radiator. Just got it running yesterday and weather is cool so won't know for sure until next summer if I finally have it licked. T Birds tend to run hot.
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By Half-dude - 9 Years Ago
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charliemccraney (10/19/2016)
190 - 200 is no cooling problem. That is just about right and if it is stable withing that range, there is no problem at all.
I thought normal operating temperature was 180.
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By charliemccraney - 9 Years Ago
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180 is usual for a thermostat rating. However, the thermostat controls the minimum operating temperature. The actual operating temperature should be a little higher.
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By Half-dude - 9 Years Ago
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Well I finally got some time to work on the car today.
I tried jamming the heat-riser open and then went on a drive. I went quite a distance in a big ol' circle, the car actually stayed right about at a solid 180! It got up to 200 while sitting in the driveway when I got back for about 5 minutes which is understandable. It was a cool day today though, like 60, so I'll still have to test more to be sure. But I took my wedge out and the heat-riser may have been my problem. Because at a 180 degrees the heat-riser was still closed and being repeatedly pushed open and closed somewhat by the exhaust stream. The spring must be bad because it apparently isn't opening up the riser when the engine is hot.
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By Dave Doll - 9 Years Ago
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Most thermostats rated at 180 160 195 only start to open at that temp. They are not fully operational until they climb somewhere around 10 degrees higher. So a 195 isn't fully opened until you reach 205.. Also remember that for every extra pound on your cap will usually add 3 more degrees to your boiling point. My family has been in the Radiator Repair Business for close to 75 years.would be happy to look your rad over and give you some advise make sure your problem is not in the core. We work on classic stuff from all the country. Would be happy to help you rule out the most probable part,. You can send me a personal message 406-698-0489 not trying to hustle you just want to help eliminate one part of the puzzle this forum has been very good to me sometimes you need to pay it forward, Dave
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By Kahuna - 9 Years Ago
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What a wonderful offer, Dave
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By Half-dude - 9 Years Ago
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Thank you Dave, it's very nice to know you guys have my back like that. 
So far though my heating problem seems to be under control. I've since forced the heat-riser permanently open and the car seems to sit right where it should be at 180-185. Though it's also been cooler since last time it over-heated and probably wont be warm again like that till summer comes back around.
If my heating problem comes back I'll definitely give you a PM. Thanks again for the offer brother.
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