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By charliemccraney - 17 Years Ago
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Can someone send a picture of the lower rear of the front fender where it bolts to the cab and possibly the area on the cab to which the fender bolts? It looks like mine has rusted away. 
Mine has been welded, poorly, at some time in the past - both sides. I need to correct it. I also need to know the measurements from the cab floor to the bottom of the frame rail, just behind the front and rear cab support pieces.  
It's a 61 unibody. I think a 61-64? solid axle will be the same. Don't know if th frames changed in that area for a twin I beam.
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By unibodyboy - 17 Years Ago
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Charlie, I'm out on a wine tour right now, should be able to get you some measurments and some pictures this evening or tomorrow. If you need it quicker, go to www.slick60s.org and make the same post, you'll find mucho help.
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By charliemccraney - 17 Years Ago
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Greg, I appreciate it. Tonight or tomorrow will be fine. While your at it, if you can put a straight edge on the floor to check the flatness. I cut out the floor pan without checking, thinking the new replacement would be trim, drop in and weld. Boy was I wrong. Add one more to the experience bucket. The replacement has a curve to it that obviously is not right so I have to straighten it some. The old piece of the floor pan is straight but I want to make sure that it did not happen after cutting. The passenger side is pretty flat. This is the area I speak of. 
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By charliemccraney - 17 Years Ago
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Thanks Sam. You have a nice looking truck. Going to bring it to Columbus? I have new cab mounting rubbers and 14 gauge sheet metal mounts. I'm curious what the height of the floor should be because it looks like I'm going to have to jack up the cab considerably to get the sheet metal mount in. It has me wondering if they are correct. I have replaced much of the stuff near the lower area of the cowl. Don't know the technical terms but they were mostly gone. Check out the old floor. 
The passenger side mount is alright but there's a big hole next to the cowl and, I'm sure, much more.
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By unibodyboy - 17 Years Ago
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Charlie, can't figure out how to post pictures up here. Email me @ drummerboy57@hotmail.com I think i've got what you need.
Sorry it took me so long, trucks in storage and just stupid busy.
Greg
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By charliemccraney - 17 Years Ago
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E-mail sent. Coming from charliemccraney at yahoo dot com. Thank you.
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By Greg D - 17 Years Ago
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There are pics of the patching I did to my lower cowl here;
http://www.fordtruk.com/forums/album.php?cat_id=103&sort_method=pic_time&sort_order=DESC&user_id=292&start=40
I made patches for my floor too but I can get you some pics of it also, most of the stock floor is there.
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By charliemccraney - 17 Years Ago
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Thanks Sam for the measurements and other info. Thanks Greg and Greg D for the pictures. Greg D, I like the primer and red. I'm tempted to do mine similarly but my goal with this one is to create something more along the lines of a sleeper and the turquoise and white has grown on me.
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By charliemccraney - 17 Years Ago
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Can someone tell me if carriage bolts should be in the approximate location of the red ovals in the photos?
 
Ok. No red ovals. Weird. The ones I uploaded have them. Oh, well. Are there suppose to be carriage bolts at the very front of the bed of a unibody? There is some sort of bolt in that location but it just spinned when I tried to loosen the nut. I had to use a nut cracker and vice-grips to get the nut off and the bolt loose. Extensive amounts of filler was used by a previous owner. I'm thinking the carriage bolts fell through the bed and were covered by filler.
Edit 07/08 The red ovals have appeared. Computers are weird.
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By Unibodyguy - 17 Years Ago
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Charlie, on both of my Uni's they are something like a carriage bolt. I've never had mine off, but I know from the bottom side I was surprised to see that the spacer between the frame and the bed floor was accually wood! My old 52 F100 was the same way. I guess if it worked back then, it was good enough for the Uni's also. I wonder how many years they continued to do that. Michael
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By charliemccraney - 17 Years Ago
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The very front of the bed on mine has a boxed steel structure under the floor that is 1 1/2 to 2" thick. I haven't measured it yet. I've heard it refered to as the torque box. From what I understand it is notorious for rusting out and that is exactly what mine has done. The corner where the cab wall meets the bed floor will also need a lot of work. There are wood blocks on the 4 center bed mounts. The rubbers go between these blocks and the frame.
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By charliemccraney - 17 Years Ago
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What should the angle indicated by the red lines be?
I was thinking it should be 90 degrees or larger but the repro mounts I have are smaller. I haven't measured but I put a square on it and it looks like it's about 85 degrees. It looks like the floor pan is sloped from the middle to the outside of the cab; higher in the middle and lower at the sides. The repro mounts being less than 90 degrees just doesn't seem right. Wouldn't that cause it to slope to the inside? My originals are not in good enough shape to trust the measurements.
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By charliemccraney - 17 Years Ago
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I need another measurement. This is the bottom of the flange to the bottom of the mount. I get 2" on the passenger side. Should it be the same on the driver side? 
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By charliemccraney - 17 Years Ago
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The cab is twisted some. The driver side door has been difficult to shut sometimes. I have the body jacked on that side now and the door closes very easily. Hopefully it will still close easily when it's all back together. I also suspect that this rotten body mount has a lot to do with the clutch chatter that I have not yet been able to solve. The best I can tell, each of the mounts is angle about 2 degrees forward and 2 degrees up.
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By pegleg - 17 Years Ago
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Charlie, If you search the manuals on ebay you may find a Body Assembly manual. It won't give you things like those angles, but it will show drawings and or photos of what and how. I got them for my 57 and it has been a major help.
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By charliemccraney - 17 Years Ago
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I've been thinking about getting a body manual. I guess I should bite the bullet.
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By comrade-paul - 17 Years Ago
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Bodywork !! My favourite. Keep posting pics of the progress. Had loads of rust in my Mercury once. I feel your pain brother ! 
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By charliemccraney - 17 Years Ago
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Paul, I'm flying you over here. I'm not particularly fond of the body repair. Here's a link to more pics. http://s121.photobucket.com/albums/o214/cmccraney/F100/Rust%20Repair/
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By bird55 - 17 Years Ago
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Charlie, Im impressed-the little bit of fab and floor pan work I've done is enough for me to know this is no easy feat. you are doing a great job-hang in there it will be worth it.
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By PF Arcand - 17 Years Ago
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Charlie: I don't know if this helps but are you aware of the recent Ads run in YBM, for the fledgling- Ford-Mercury Unibody Club of America, o/o rick Nelson, PO. Box 3011, Fairfield CA 94533-0311. Ph.707-864-6829. Might be worth checking into?
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By charliemccraney - 17 Years Ago
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I had not noticed the Unibody Club. I'll look into it.
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By charliemccraney - 17 Years Ago
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I got a lot of work done this weekend. One thing concerning the floor pan. I had to make a spacer to prevent the floor pan from crushing in when the cab mounting bolts are tightened. The stock floor pan has this built in. Not so on the repro parts. The reproductions seem to be a heavier gauge but I'm concerned that it is not enough. This is what I came up with.  
I think it should do the same job. I mad a new post about the cab mounting rubbers. Since it's an involved subject I figured a new post is best: http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic15335-3-1.aspx
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By charliemccraney - 17 Years Ago
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Finally, driver side finished!  
So the passenger side should go together faster, theoretically.... right? I'm not going to put the rubber matt back down until all my leaks are fixed. It just prevents the moisture from evaporating. I have one leak that must be in the cowl. The other is along the lower cab/bed joint thing.
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