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By Barnabasmc - 8 Years Ago
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I have a 272 in my 55 Fairlane Victoria that I recently changed from a 2 barrel carb to a 500 cfm 4 barrel from Edelbrock. The car idles great and seems to run ok at slow speeds but is very non responsive if you give it any gas. It bogs down when you put any load on it. I have checked all the fuel lines for blockage, adjusted the timing back and forth, adjusted the idle screws and nothing seems to fix it. Any ideas what the problem could be? The car is stock but was rebuilt a couple of years ago before I obtained it. The data code on the car says it came from the factory with a 4 barrel but somewhere along the line someone converted it to a 2 barrel. I put a correct 4 barrel manifold from a 56.
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By oldcarmark - 8 Years Ago
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What Distributor is on it? Original Loadomatic or the later 57+ Style?
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By Barnabasmc - 8 Years Ago
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original
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By GREENBIRD56 - 8 Years Ago
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The new carb you installed doesn't have the same vacuum signal that was provided by the original carb. The original has a port in the venturi of the carb that provides a signal proportional to the AIR FLOW through the venturi. That then attempts to match the spark advance to the intake volume - engine speed. If you open the distributor cap, are there a pair of visible springs up on the point plate?
Your new style carb has two vacuum ports - but neither of them provides venturi vacuum. One is manifold vacuum - the other is "ported" manifold vacuum. Neither one can work with the old distributor. If you floor it - this carb gives a very low vacuum signal to the old distributor, retarding spark advance severely.
Best option is to find a '57 or newer - up to 1964 Y-block distributor that will work with the carb's vacuum signal. Many get theirs from a rebuilder - ask for the unit for a 1964 F-100 truck with a 292 engine. Cardone has a useful rebuilt unit - you will also need to get the cap to match.
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By oldcarmark - 8 Years Ago
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Cardone 30-2808. Many on Ebay. Check with any Auto Parts Store for Price. Just give them that Information. You need Cap AND Rotor. Use 1968 Mustang 302 for Application. Your existing Wires will work with replacement cap.
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By Barnabasmc - 8 Years Ago
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Thanks for the info, I will open the distributor cap and look as soon as I get home to the car.
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By oldcarmark - 8 Years Ago
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This is a Picture of the original 55-56 Loadomatic Distributor which won't work with the new Carb. Springs are visible when the Cap is removed. 57+ are hidden by Breaker Plate.
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By Barnabasmc - 8 Years Ago
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Thanks for the picture. If I order the Cardone 30-2808 for a 1957 will it just swap out with the old loadomatic?
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By charliemccraney - 8 Years Ago
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Yes and it should run better than ever.
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By oldcarmark - 8 Years Ago
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Yes. Just order by Part #. The Counter Guy will get confused if You tell him its for a 57. Check around for Price because there seems to be quite a variance in Price for the same Item.Don't turn your old One in as a "Core". Worth it to hold onto it.
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By paul2748 - 8 Years Ago
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Look on ebay - there always seems to be a lot of them on there. I just checked ebay - there are 18 listed.
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By Barnabasmc - 8 Years Ago
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Thanks everyone, the new distrubutor just arrived. Can't wait to put it on a see how it does.
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By DryLakesRacer - 8 Years Ago
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Take your time removing your dist. Mark the spot where the rotor is pointing or crank over the engine with the cap off and get it to a spot you like, place the new rotor aim as close as you can and will be real close when starting. Best thing I ever did to my 56... Are you still 6 volts? If so the electric choke will work but it will take longer to heat up. I would set it just enough "on" to raise the idle cam and not shut the choke butterfly. Have fun you will enjoy it.
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By Barnabasmc - 8 Years Ago
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The car was changed to 12 volt before I got it. Thanks for the info, planning on working on it today.
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By Barnabasmc - 8 Years Ago
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Anybody know what I should gap the points at?
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By oldcarmark - 8 Years Ago
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.014-.016. 28 Degrees of Dwell. They should be close as installed at Rebiulders.
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By Barnabasmc - 8 Years Ago
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I thought it had an original distributor but here's what I found. Looks like someone put a newer electronic dist. in with no points. Is this better or worse for the carb I put on?
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By Gene Purser - 8 Years Ago
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That looks like a Pertronix unit. I really like them, but you must have the correct coil or you could burn it up. It should have a coil that reads no less than 1.5 ohms between the "+" and "-" terminals. And it should be rated for the same voltage as your car. Seeing as it is in a distributor from a 12V car originally, chances are it is a 12V unit. The red wire goes to the "+" side of the coil and the black wire goes to the "-" terminal of the coil if your system is 12V negative ground. If there is a ballast resister ahead of the coil it should be bypassed. The points and condenser can be reinstalled if you prefer, but the Pertronix unit keeps the correct dwell indefinitely and is maintenance free. The downside is when/if it fails it is instantaneous. I keep a points/condenser set in my car.
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By GREENBIRD56 - 8 Years Ago
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Some odds and ends about the Pertronix ignition -
(1) The firing unit is designed to operate on the full 13.5 volts of the "12v" ignition. If there is a ballast resistor in there, it shouldn't be in the red power lead to the controller/firing unit.
(2) I can see in the photo - that the ground to the distributor is NOT jumpered to the moving point plate. If you look at the usual point ignitions, they have a braided connection between the moving point plate and the body of the distributor. The Perrtronix requires this same ground. I usually make sure a set-up like this is grounded clear back to the block. Many times it has been found that as the point plate moves - the ground changes - and it reduces the voltage to the controller.
(3) Many have found that conventional coils don't like full voltage - and they overheat and fail when exposed to such a current load. Best to retain a ballast resistor - if you don't have a high temp resistant coil.
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By Barnabasmc - 8 Years Ago
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Thanks for the info. I think I'm going to take it out and replace with the Cardona one everyone suggested.
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By yknot - 8 Years Ago
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I have the same problem that Barnabasmc stated. My config is a 57 292 with b manifold, original distributor, 575 cfm holley. Any help would be great.
Buz
Dallas, TX
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By Barnabasmc - 8 Years Ago
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I put in the new distributor but it only has one black wire instead of a 2 wire system like the Petronix. We connected the wire to the positive side of the coil and it started smoking when we tried to start it. What did we do wrong?
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By Sandbird - 8 Years Ago
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Seems to me that 500+ cfm carburetors are awful big to be put on a 272 cid with the small runner '56 intake and smaller valves. A 245hp '57 312 is happy with 390cfm Holley and even that has larger intake runners.
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By oldcarmark - 8 Years Ago
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yknot (7/11/2017)
I have the same problem that Barnabasmc stated. My config is a 57 292 with b manifold, original distributor, 575 cfm holley. Any help would be great. Buz Dallas, TX
What Distributor are You using? 57+ or the original Loadomatic?
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By oldcarmark - 8 Years Ago
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Barnabasmc (7/11/2017)
I put in the new distributor but it only has one black wire instead of a 2 wire system like the Petronix. We connected the wire to the positive side of the coil and it started smoking when we tried to start it. What did we do wrong?
The Wire to Distributor goes on the - or "distributor" Terminal on Coil. There should already be 2 Wires going to + Terminal on Coil. You can try it hooked up correctly but You may have burned out the Points and Condensor trying it on wrong Terminal.
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By Barnabasmc - 8 Years Ago
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Would this still be true since this car was rewired to 12 volt and now has negative ground?
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By oldcarmark - 8 Years Ago
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Yes that setup is for 12 Volt - Ground. If it was 6 Volt + Ground it would be the reverse. Distributor to + side of Coil.
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By Gene Purser - 8 Years Ago
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Your points ARE the ground to the coil circuit and should be connected the "-" side of the coil. The winding in the coil reduces the voltage to the points so they can close and allow the coil to "saturate". The instructions that came with the distributor should give you the information to connect it correctly.
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By paul2748 - 8 Years Ago
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Are you running resisitor?
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By Barnabasmc - 8 Years Ago
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UPDATE.... After frying the points and condenser because my mechanic friend hooked the black wire to the wrong side of coil (after I said I think it's backwards) we bought new points and condenser and installed them. We put on a new coil with a built in resistor and set the timing to 6 degrees b t d c. We took a test drive and it runs great! We still have a little fine tuning but the problem has been fixed. The distributor we took out was from a 57 (it had writing on the bottom and a price so someone had put it in to replace the original) but converted to electronic ignition and it looks like the vacuum advance was not working right. Thanks everyone for the advice it was extremely helpful.
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By oldcarmark - 8 Years Ago
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Glad to hear its working for You. If the Electronic Ignition Conversion was working You can install that in your new Distributor . As long as its a later style Distributor like the One U purchased. Don't discard it.
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By oldcarmark - 8 Years Ago
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quote]Barnabasmc (7/12/2017)
UPDATE.... After frying the points and condenser because my mechanic friend hooked the black wire to the wrong side of coil (after I said I think it's backwards) we bought new points and condenser and installed them. We put on a new coil with a built in resistor and set the timing to 6 degrees b t d c. We took a test drive and it runs great! We still have a little fine tuning but the problem has been fixed. The distributor we took out was from a 57 (it had writing on the bottom and a price so someone had put it in to replace the original) but converted to electronic ignition and it looks like the vacuum advance was not working right. Thanks everyone for the advice it was extremely helpful.
You can bump the Timing to about 8 BTDC. The stock timing recomendations are conservative. The vacuum Advance is adjustable using a 3/32 Allen Key through the opening in the end of the vacuum Can. Clockwise increases the amount of Advance and CC decreases it. You should be setting it for about 8 degrees of available Advance. Overall available Advance including Initial,.Vacuum, and Centrifugal should be 42 Degrees Maximum. You can swap the Advance Springs for lighter Ones so that the Advance is all in by 2500 or so RPM. Get it running properly 1st and then U can fine Tune it then by changing the Springs.
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By Barnabasmc - 8 Years Ago
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A local mechanic I bought the points and condenser from suggested the same thing so I think I will try it tomorrow. I had it out today and it is running better than it ever has since I got it. Thanks for all the help.
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By Barnabasmc - 8 Years Ago
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The car is running pretty darn good now but still a little sluggish at the low end. Once up to speed it runs really good. The timings correct, brand new plugs, wires are good, compression is great in all cylinders,points are set right. Someone suggested that I might need to change the metering rods in the carburetor. Any thoughts?
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By Ted - 8 Years Ago
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Barnabasmc (8/21/2017)
The car is running pretty darn good now but still a little sluggish at the low end. Once up to speed it runs really good. The timings correct, brand new plugs, wires are good, compression is great in all cylinders,points are set right. Someone suggested that I might need to change the metering rods in the carburetor. Any thoughts?
I’ll suggest adding some more initial advance timing to the engine before tackling the carburetor. 12°-14° initial at idle with the vacuum advance unplugged would be a good starting point.
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