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By jecklhyde - 7 Years Ago
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Can a
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By charliemccraney - 7 Years Ago
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They are Chinese copies of MSD. I haven't heard of any problems with them and you usually hear when things are junk. If the actually are reliable, then they are potentially a good deal. My biggest concern with Chinese products is support. If there are problems, will you get help? Are consumables available, cap, rotor, etc. or will you have to get an entire new distributor when it comes time to replace those? If the latter, then it is not a good deal in the long run.
That said, I have heard of problems with the MSD ready to run distributors, which would be the direct comparison. There is, I think a pro billet which is better but it is not "ready to run" meaning that an external box is required, not optional.
I would go with rebuilt and if you want electronic ignition, get a conversion for it. I don't know that I would go with Cardone or any "off-the-shelf" rebuild, which is probably Cardone no matter the brand on the box, at the moment. They seem to have problems with the shaft length lately. Try to find a place that can actually perform a rebuild in house.
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By 2721955meteor - 7 Years Ago
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i was told the pickup coil is bad, but a gm 1 will fit. the 1 i bought i resold at a swap meet. I have converted 3 57 and late r block diist. to ford dura spark with great success. you need patience and some teck smarts. only issue is i can't find a source for cent force weight plastick bushings. any help would be great. if any 1 wants i have a wiring diagram. for best results you need a dura spark coil as well
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By charliemccraney - 7 Years Ago
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That is a Load-O-Matic distributor, which will only work with the carburetor it was designed for. If you do not have an original or if you want to use a modern carb, you must use a distributor for '57 or newer.
Even if you do have the original carb and no plan to upgrade, the newer distributor is a better choice.
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By 62bigwindow - 7 Years Ago
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http://www.4secondsflat.com/Ford%20Y-Block%20Distributors.htm
These are a little pricey but the guy knows his stuff. Ive been thinking about ditching my MSD for one of these.
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By charliemccraney - 7 Years Ago
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If more or less stock is what you are after, then that will do it.
When you say little 2-barrel, you want a ;57-'64 2-barrel intake which will have the modern, larger 4 bolt flange. You do not want an earlier, smaller 3-bolt flange manifold.
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By 2721955meteor - 7 Years Ago
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where do you live. if in the west frt is cheap, my friend and i convert 57-60 y distributors to dura spark for250 us and can supply new dura spark module for 100cnd. our issues hear is the y 57-60 dist.as the brain dead gov hear squashes everything. cores impose. to find.
and will supply inst to wire. inst paper. cliff at ct1940@shaw.ca. have a mail address in blain wa.
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By charliemccraney - 7 Years Ago
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That is not ideal, but it will work. If you use the newer distributor then you have two options regarding the vacuum advance. Option one is not to use it. It is only an economy feature for the newer distributors and is not mandatory for the basic operation of the distributor. Option two is to use manifold vacuum. This will require a vacuum port located as centrally as possible in the intake or incorporated into a carburetor spacer. Ideally, that vacuum signal must come from both planes of the intake.
Another issue with that intake and later heads is the port mismatch. That intake will have smaller ports than the newer heads.
The '57 on 2-barrel intakes are pretty cheap and a carb to go with it can probably be found pretty reasonably. There are several of those intakes on eBay right now at $92 and free shipping. Search for y block intake. Also check here in the classifieds.
Be aware that swapping to different components may require modifications to fuel lines, linkage, different air filters, etc. If you are not comfortable with all of that then I would not recommend the swap.
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By 62bigwindow - 7 Years Ago
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I have a 2 barrel intake off a 61 F600 if your interested. I'll let it go cheap.
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By charliemccraney - 7 Years Ago
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Y intakes are easy to swap. Since you already have that, try it. If it does not satisfy you, then you know of other options.
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By paul2748 - 7 Years Ago
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If you decide to use that carb in the picture with a later distributor, you should get a plug for the valve thay sticks out from the back of the carb (I forget just what it is called -spark control???). It is a Holley part. The vacuum hole on the back also needs to be plugged if using a later distributor.
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By 62bigwindow - 7 Years Ago
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Email sent.
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By 1960fordf350 - 7 Years Ago
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I replaced my distributor about 4 years ago with an Autozone unit. Probably Chinese. It was $60 no core charge. Listed as rebuilt, but no way. It had the o ring on it like a 302. Fit right in and go. I did put a pertronix in it after changing the coil last year. Never dealt with the 3 bolt 2 barrel. My truck has a holley on it. Good luck with your project
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By GREENBIRD56 - 7 Years Ago
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I was faced with finding a good distributor system 10-12 years ago and finally came up with the following: I found a nice tight '59 model distributor - an AUTOLITE. it has this sort of flyweight system below the point plate...
It is then possible to machine the point cam off the upper rotor shaft - in order to fit the trigger "reluctor" of the Duraspark II. Ford lit calls it an "armature". With the modified part in hand, you can assemble the earlier Autolite - with the advance deck of the later Duraspark II. With that trigger on there - many options exist - it can run a Duraspark II controller - a GM HEI module - or an MSD "red box".
  
If you want to try this set-up, I can send you some simple electrical schemes that work to operate the coil. I have tried several versions over the years. One big advantage of the Duraspark II triggered version is that the controller electronics (which is the most commonly serviced part) is not in the hot distributor. By simple exchange of parts (never opening the distributor) the controller can be exchanged in minutes. The Ford Duraspark II controllers were never too reliable - and not high performance by any means (they have the same "dwell" as single points).
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By 2721955meteor - 7 Years Ago
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i converted 1 from your info and it worked well,tho machining the cam of is difficult and requires a carbide too. the vacuum advance on your picture is not the best ,i used the ford controller on 3 conversions no issues also there is a provision to retard timing on crank for those with
high comp., I was told the dist you show is a early 57,later ones with the smaller weights require no machining,and the parts from 302s with electronic ign. will bolt right in.pickup coils endplate etc..i found your info excellent and with a drawing from motors manual showed easy way to wire. it covered the fact that some gin switches have to power while on start cold,swell how easy to utilize the retard often.
again your info was great. have 2 ys using ford dura spark 2. big improvement.
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By Ted - 7 Years Ago
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jecklhyde (1/17/2018)
Haven't received the HEI from Oregon yet but it should be here soon.
Charlie said to vacuum from center of manifold ; both planes. Paul said plug the 94. Ted revealed a demonstration of the 94 plug process on another thread. Thank yous.
Here's what I'm asking today. Since I have my original 94 that I can kit and plug I'm thinking of making a 1" or so aluminum spacer to go, along with gaskets, between the carb and manifold.....and pull the vacuum from there. Good or no good? Work or won't work? Thank you. Never made one but I'll have no problem with the machining processes and suppose I can scan the nets for design on vacuum channel/channels configuration, size, etc...
Pulling the distributor vacuum from under the butterflies will result in ‘direct’ vacuum which is the same as pulling from the center vacuum port on the 3X2 intake. The tune up (read that as the ignition advance curve) is simply different with direct vacuum as opposed to using ‘ported’ vacuum. Ported vacuum is where the vacuum signal is zero at idle, vacuum at part throttle, and then back to no or a very reduced vacuum at ½ throttle and greater. The factory tune up for the Fords starting in 1957 used ported vacuum which necessitates unhooking the distributor vacuum advance to set the initial and total timing.
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By Talkwrench - 7 Years Ago
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Now change the module and coil for a genuine Bosch ones. In Australia the 4 pin module is BIM024 and the coil is HEC 716. Strongly advise to check the curve as well.
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By martyk98 - 7 Years Ago
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I bought one last month for my small block ford 302. The only issue I have found is the vacuum advance needed to be tweaked. So far so good.
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By charliemccraney - 7 Years Ago
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I think Talkwrench might be thinking that it is one of the Chinese MSD copies but the FBO is a Pertronix distributor for another Ford V8 which has been modified to fit a Y-Block.
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By Talkwrench - 7 Years Ago
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Yes a Chinese one is what I was referring too, the referral is to HEI because you said this "Well, I got the HEI in " If its another type [not HEI] as Charlie said then disregard ...
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