You've got a newbie here that could use some help. I'm gathering parts with the idea of trying to put a motor together this winter.  I have a '55 2dr Customline v8 stick w/od that's been in the family since '56.  I'm going to put in a 292 (C2AE), with 471 heads, topped with a tripower.  Haven't decided on a cam and  that's another big question mark.

  The real problem.....I'm looking for a machine shop in the midwest (preferably around St Louis) that has a clue about Y blocks.

  If anyone has had any experience with any shops here in flyover land I would be most grateful.  Would also appreciate any suggestions as to what I might need to tell a shop with no Y block experience.

     Thanks

     Missouri Mike

I can't help you with a good Y-Block shop in the eastern part of Missouri,but if you can't find one any closer,there is a shop in Atchison Kansas that pretty much specializes in mid fifties Fords.They are as knowledgable about Y-Blocks as anyone.Atchison is about 30 miles north of Kansas City.If you need his info let me know and I'll get it from my brother-in law,who has had them do a lot of work to his 56.

Would a 10cc dome (like the Mummert pistons) squeeze 471 heads to 9:1 or would 10cc take the cr too high for the street?????? 

I'd like to get 250+ hp out of this combination. Am I on the right track with something like Isky's 270 cam or one of JM's smaller cams??  I'm not looking for so much high end HP, as I am low and mid range torque.

     This is a great website, THANKS

     Missouri Mike

A 292 bored 0.030 with flattops sitting 0.005” in the hole and with 82cc 471 heads will net you 7½:1 CR.  Putting a 10cc dome on the piston while maintaining the same 0.005” in the hole will bring the compression ratio up to 8.3:1.  Bringing the piston to a zero deck at this point will up CR to 8.4:1.  Then milling the heads 0.025” each (assuming the heads are starting out at 82cc and end up at 78.2cc) will further raise the compression ratio up to 8.8:1.  This all figured with composition head gaskets being used.

Take  Ted's advice on the heads  & CR .I built a 272  a few  years ago ,used the wrong heads and had no bottom end whatsoever . To make things worse I put in big valves and over cammed the motor . After making all these mistakes ,then I studied up on the different heads used on Y -Blocks . I sure wish I had done my homework first .Wasted about $2k on that motor .

Regards Lon

John F- Yes, I'm out in Washington, Mo. Ballwin is just a hop, skip and a jump.

Thanks for the head/piston info, any thoughts on a cam????????

   Missouri Mike

636-227-5532

Missouri Mike

Here's the info on the shop in Atchison,KS.

Wayne Keinig

913-367-0184

If you call him,tell him Fred Gardner recommended him.Maybe that'll get you a better deal..

 Thanks a lot!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

  Missouri Mike

I once again need input from those with more experience than myself in the Y block world.

My '55 2dr Customline project will not get the C2AE 292 with 471 heads, but will use the original 272 with less than 30,000 on the clock (been in the family since '56 so I know that's right mileage). As Ted suggested I want to use the Isky E4 cam and I have a tripower for it. Backing it I have a 5 speed.

Now the "Question".  What are the minimal mods I need to make to this motor? I have a 53 year old piece with less than 30,000 on it.  Leaks oil didn't use any, started and ran good but has been sitting for the last 2 years. Would G heads be worthwhile,what about a distributor, Etc? ????

Thanks in Advance, Missouri Mike

                                                                           Michael 

 314-773-3333, 3360 Roger place, St Louis, Mo. 63116..  WWW.Hollywoodautomotive.com

The G heads on the 57 model 272's worked well so this is a valid consideration.  Also go with a '57 and up distributor and insure that the vacuum advance for the distributor is plumbed to a ported vacuum port at the carburetor.  Using a '57 and up carb is the easy out for this.  If using the 3X2 setup, then this may require some circuitry changes in the center carb to get the vacuum signal right for the distributor.