|
By Deyomatic - Last Week
|
As I slowly MAYBE make progress diagnosing the stumble in my 292, I am wondering about that old adage that says “90% of fuel problems are ignition problems.”
I have a Pertronix Ignitor (first series) now but a long time ago had a bad experience with an Ignitor 2. Conversely, I have run the cheapest imported HEI dizzy in the past and never had a problem…
Looking at maybe trying out one if the CRT units. They don’t look obnoxious- they look like they belong, and HEI has always worked for me. Anyone here have real world experience? I can never get the search feature to work.
Thanks.
|
|
By 55blacktie - Last Week
|
Ted Eaton tested one 2-3 years ago and posted the results; the outcome was favorable. I later asked him if he were to choose between the 57 Ford Thunderbird tach-drive distributor and the CRT, which would he choose; he replied, "the CRT". If you go back 2-3 years, you should find Ted's post. See, also Florida_Phil post "New Thunderbird Tach-Drive Distributor Questions" from three years ago. There are two links for Ted's original posts.
The CRT comes with several different advance springs and adjustable vacuum advance. Their tach-drive distributor will accommodate either mechanical or electric tach.
Make sure that there will not be any clearance issues for your application.
Although CRT sells on eBay, you can buy directly from CRT; I did, paid no sales tax, and shipping was free. I haven't installed mine yet; my 55 Tbird is undergoing a slow restoration.
|
|
By Deyomatic - Last Week
|
Another question, not having really gotten to inspect the Y block, spark plug rating looms, will an 8 mm plug fit inside of them? I bought new plugs but when they showed up, they look significantly larger than what’s on the engine. I don’t think they will fit Inside those rubber blocks. Is it an optical illusion?
Well, enough silicone spray get them to go through? Should I just use thinner stick replacement wires?
|
|
By KULTULZ - Last Week
|
No, the insulator blocks are meant for 7MM IGN WIRES. You will have to modify for 8MM.
There are quality 7MM wires available.
|
|
By Joe-JDC - Last Week
|
I use the MSD plug wires in the factory style looms and the CRT/TSP/MSD distributors as well as MSD caps on the CRT distributor. 
|
|
By FORD DEARBORN - 7 days ago
|
|
It may be a matter of personal preference. If you prefer the wires to be neatly tucked away and threaded through the proper grommets there is, as stated above, quality 7mm wires available. I purchased a complete tailored set from Magnecor wires many years ago and for several years ran an MSD and other ignition boxes with no problems and they are still in excellent condition. They are on the pricey side though....
|
|
By Deyomatic - 7 days ago
|
|
Good to know...I still think my current problem is fuel related but this is good stuff. Any recommendations on the 7mm wires, or where to find the Magnecore wires? The Magnecore site is terrible! LOL.
|
|
By Ted - 7 days ago
|
There are soft rubber and hard rubber wire separators for the Y depending upon where they are sourced from. I get most of mine from Carpenters and they are of the soft variety. I have good results using the soft rubber separators for the 8mm wires but the wires must be installed in those supports where you want them before clamping them down. The wires are not going to slide in them once bolted in place. The hard rubber separators tend to work only with the 7mm wires.
Here are some pics of Y’s with 8mm wires as being used with the factory style wire looms.
Here are links to past threads regarding the CRT and TSP distributors. My preference is to use the caps that have the HEI terminals and not the older ‘push in wire’ conventional caps.
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/FindPost163002.aspx
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/FindPost160254.aspx
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/FindPost156530.aspx
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/FindPost164128.aspx
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/FindPost165943.aspx
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/FindPost166227.aspx
|
|
By Deyomatic - 2 days ago
|
Thanks all…
Ted- do you have a photo of the type of cap you prefer?
A couple more questions…
The CRT website says that they are only replacements for hex drive shafts. I was not aware Y blocks ever had anything different. I was thinking of ordering one of these, any reason to believe that the Mallory distributor that is currently in mine would not have the hex drive?
Also, I’ve only ever replaced one Y block distributor. I remember there being some kind of a trick, either you use two gaskets or you don’t use one at all, under the distributor. Am I imagining that? If not, which is the one I’m supposed to do?
Thanks
|
|
By Ted - 2 days ago
|
The 1954 engines (239 FYB, 256 FYB, 317 LYB) used a slotted end on the distributor with a corresponding slotted oil drive and slotted oil pump. There was also a different distributor drive gear for the 1954 FYB engines. 1955 and up went with the hex drive at the distributor end.
The HEI style caps are available in different colors. The spark plug wires for the HEI caps do snap in place versus just being pushed in which eliminates that problem of the pushed in wires working themselves loose. The installed HEI wire ends also have a lower profile at the top of the HEI cap versus using a cap with push in wires. I lean towards black when I can get them.
|
|
By Ted - 2 days ago
|
|
Deyomatic (5/17/2025)
Also, I’ve only ever replaced one Y block distributor. I remember there being some kind of a trick, either you use two gaskets or you don’t use one at all, under the distributor. Am I imagining that? If not, which is the one I’m supposed to do?
By design, no gasket is used for the Ford distributors. Adding a gasket raises the distributor housing and can cause internal distributor damage due to the gear trying to get back down to where it belongs.
|
|
By Deyomatic - 2 days ago
|
|
Thanks x 2.
|