power to the electric choke

power to the electric choke

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By oldcarmark - 17 Years Ago

Hello All,I am almost finished installing my 390 cfm Holley and "B" manifold.To power the electric choke I am running a wire from the ignition switch.Should I use the "accessory" terminal which is "on" whenever the key is on or the terminal that feeds the ballast resistor which I believe is only "on" when the car is running?I got the "PCV" valley pan on with no trouble so tomorrow I will have it running.Thanks Mark

By John F - 17 Years Ago

use the accessory terminal, you really don't want anything tied to the ignition.

By ejstith - 17 Years Ago

I hooked mine to the + side of the coil. Haven't had any adverse effects yet. Works ok too .. ??

By oldcarmark - 17 Years Ago

Thanks Scott,

I got a copy faxed from Holley.Anyway instructions are for people who don't know what they are doing.Right?(LOL)I am not hooking it to coil.Just wasn't sure about where on the ignition switch.Hooked to the accessory post.Just got mine fired up.Sounds real strong.Got a leak in the stat housing so will try to fix today and go for a ride.Good luck on yours.Let me know how it works for you.Regards Mark

By webconst - 17 Years Ago

I currently have 2 cars, a 56 & a 57 t-bird, that I have converted to electric chokes. Both of my cars have a four lug starter solenoid on firewall. 2 large and 2 small wire connectors. The 2 small are marked "I" and "S", meaning ignition and switch. I have connected wire from the "I", which is only hot when the ignition switch is in the "on" or "run" position, not accessory; full 12 volts. It appears to be a black wire going to that terminal and a tan wire going to the "S" terminal which energizes the solenoid when in the start position. Been working fine on both of these cars for 30+ years. Charlie

By ejstith - 17 Years Ago

I just checked the voltage of my coil this morning with the engine idling and it was at battery voltage .. about 13.3 ...

By GREENBIRD56 - 17 Years Ago

This illustration shows the wiring scheme of the Ford 4 pole starter solenoid -

The "I" post referred to in one of the previous notes, is being back-fed from the (+) terminal of the coil when the engine is running and the ignition is on. It will be on the down side of the ballast resistor. The jumper from the "I" terminal to the coil gives full 12v+ ignition power to the coil at start - and is isolated after that - otherwise it would defeat the ballast resistor.

The lower voltage may slow the choke opening a bit and the alternate current path will certainly steal some coil power.

I've got my bird wired so that power from the ignition "on" terminal (that used to go to the ballast resistor) now goes to a 30 AMP x 2 pole Bosch "plug-in" relay - and the choke. Main power for the relay (the switched lead) comes from the starter soleniod battery post on a big wire - half goes to the electronic ignition box and the other half to the coil.

By oldcarmark - 17 Years Ago

Thanks for clarifying that Steve.Any ideas on my other thread with the problem with the carb?

By webconst - 17 Years Ago

Steve, I should realize what works for one is not necessarily the right way. I would like to thank you for your indulgence and technical information to all on this forum. I did not mean to mislead.

Thank you, Charlie

By GREENBIRD56 - 17 Years Ago

Thanks for being kind Charlie - I was sorta short of time this morning and just jabbed some buttons and ran. I sure didn't want you to feel thumped on. There must be way more than a few thousand vehicles (just in the past week) that have had all sorts of "auxillary" loads tied to the coil lead. And they all ran to suit their owners ..........just fine.

I did what I did to my outfit because I found that the main switch just didn't seem to want to carry all of the loads I could put on it. The 50 year old insulation started smelling and smoking......new circuit design needed.

Mark's carb trouble sounds like an accelerator pump problem to me. Maybe a touch of low idle speed......?