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By Apache - 17 Years Ago
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I'm curious for anyone who's done a rebuild or has done one themselves..around how much it will cost for a rebuild...nothing crazy or radical..more than likely the only thing none stock will be some .30 pistons...i doubt i need forged etc bc it's not gonna be a speed demon. are there any particualr things i should do during a rebuild...like something tney shoudl have done from teh factory? i'm shooting for good gas milage here...
and also.. what weght oil shoudl i be using?
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By charliemccraney - 17 Years Ago
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I think I would have had about $2500 in it if had had done a rebuild and used much of my old stuff. But don't take my word for it. I had a lot done and its hard to separate the need from the want.
It depends largely on what you have done and the machining cost in your area. Decking, line honing, resizing rods, turning the crank, fitting the pins, boring, new guides, valve job, gaping rings, it all adds up. All of this does not have to be done. It just depends how far you want to go. A blueprint, while more expensive, will make the engine more efficient and help with your fuel economy goal. For fuel mileage you will want to get the compression into the mid to low 9s. You may want to consider forged pistons. They can be designed in such a way so that they are lighter than the stock pistons and they can be made to use thin rings. The reduced weight and friction should help economy. Rods with a smaller journal diameter will reduce friction but this starts getting into the custom machining area which can be expensive. Perhaps even a mild cam to optimize low-mid range torque. To a point, you can increase performance and economy but it relies on your ability to keep the lead out of your foot. I'm sure you can see that it can add up quick.
The oil you need to use will depend on the clearances you choose to run. For the type of build you are planning, you'll probably need something like 10w30 but discuss this with the person who does the machining.
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By mctim64 - 17 Years Ago
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I just built a 292 for a '57 Fairlane and the final price was $3200+ (it came to 4K with one ECZ-G head core, Petronix ign. and other extras). Of course that was with a performance cam, HD pushrods, stainless valves with HP springs, and balanced. A stocker can easely run $2500+ these days. Tim
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By Tom Compton - 17 Years Ago
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Depends on where you are located. Costs a lot to ship that much iron to someone who knows what he's doing. Joe Blow who does scrubs can do it for $2K and it might last a year or two. Better to get done right for 2500 or so. Even if need to add freight. After that, Speed costs money, How fast do you want to go? It's been mentioned often on here that we should include some general idea of where we are located. Soooooooo, where are you? TC
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By bird55 - 17 Years Ago
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If I did a pure stock motor today I think I would still consider a complete balance job, for for bonus horsepower and gas milege.
Still not cheap though. You could buy a lot of gas for what machining can cost you. (make that some gas )
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By Doug T - 17 Years Ago
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Again a judgement call but my recent truck engine which was not performance rebuild was done for about $2500. This was about $1000 for complete head work (springs, retainers, SS valves, hardened seats, and surfacing). $1000 for the short block (new pistons, rings, boring .060, grinding the crank 010 - 010 rods crank rod and cam bearings timing chain and gears and assembly) and maybe $500 for incidentals such as coolent, filters, oil, trany fluid, carb kit, etc etc etc. I think you can find a good machine shop in any medium sized city but you have to look around for them and talk directly to the shop personal. Get into the shop. If you see them doing a lot of odd ball stuff like boat engines flatheads inline eights and the like it is pretty sure that they can handle a Y block. If they wont let you into the shop then you might not want to deal with them. The shop I used in Maryland was pretty much one guy that I got to know and he obviously knew more about Y's than I did. Since I moved to Ky I have found at least one shop here to take an engine to when that time comes again.
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By Apache - 17 Years Ago
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i'm in FL..The only reason i'm wanting to rebuild bc......well......#7 wasn't workin.....opened her up and found teh pushrod was disconnected...reconnected it and threw it again after the first turn..so idk if it's a cam thing, or what?? so, thinkin of findin someone to do it for me..someone who knows the y-block better...
would be better in the long run, better mpgs, etc etc...to throw in a fuelie 5.0..but..i just love the rumble so :-(
idk..again, found a longblock rebuilt from 1800 on another thread i started..just don't know if i shoudl trust them so..
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By Hoosier Hurricane - 17 Years Ago
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Probably not a cam thing causing the pushrod to jump off. If it's bent, probably a stuck valve. If it's not bent, the adjuster is probably backed off. John in Selma, IN
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By Apache - 17 Years Ago
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definitley not a bent pushrod or stuck valve...i just don't know what else it could be....
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By MoonShadow - 17 Years Ago
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Put the pushrod back in, adjust it to spec, and have a friend turn the engine over while you watch. See if everything goes up and down like it should. Check the cup on the rocker arm for wear or chipping. If not there look at the lifter for the same. Chuck in NH
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By Apache - 17 Years Ago
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MoonShadow (10/13/2008)
Put the pushrod back in, adjust it to spec,and have a friend turn the engine over while you watch. See if everything goes up and down like it should. Check the cup on the rocker arm for wear or chipping. If not there look at the lifter for the same. Chuck in NH
first thing i did after i saw the prob..and still threw it again..idky
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By mctim64 - 17 Years Ago
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OK Guys, I took this question to heart and decided to put together a REAL price for a complete engine, assuming we all want the best, this engine will be close to stock with premium parts. This is for a 292, 312 would be more because of the main bearings and pistons. Block; Hot tank, bore and hone, deck, and align hone Crank and Rods; grind to whatever the core will bear, resize rods with ARP bolts, new pin bushings. Heads; (Big valve heads ECZ-G, 113, EDB, ect) new guides (not liners) all the way trough, hard steel Ex. seats, Stainless 1.94" In and 1.6" Ex, Comp. springs and one piece retainers (7*) Parts; Cast pistons with chrome rings, Clevite Rods, Mains, and cam bearings, New stock cam or regrind performance cam (I have the Guys at Oregon Cams do all my performance cams and am very happy with the results) double roller timing set, rebuilt rocker assemblies with new shafts converted to full pressure oiling, new tube push rods, new oilpump, and Fel Pro gaskets. Did I forget anything? This would include complete assembly, with pan and valve covers, and Balanced. Rebuilding a good core would cost $3700 for every thing listed above. The price could go up or down from there depending on what changes a person wanted, but this is the way I would want mine. Tim
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By Tom Compton - 17 Years Ago
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Quite thorough, Tim, thanks. Now if really doing a stock rebuild and trying to keep costs down, subtract the replacement heads (will use the stock ones on hand), other "performance" stuff and assembly. I would think it would be getting pretty close to the $2500 previously mentioned. As you presumably have a spreadsheet, should be quite an easy thing to do. Thx, TC
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By mctim64 - 17 Years Ago
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I think if a person wants just a stock "everyday" driver, and is willing to do most of the work themselves, it is possible to build an engine for considerably less than that price. Valves don't always have to be replaced, crankshafts don't always need to be ground. As for the block if you have little or no wear you may be able to re-ring, and if you do need to bore the block, decks and line bores for the most part stay in pretty good shape. I would recommend if the engine is apart that hard Ex. seats are installed, it will make the engine go a lot longer and might be as little as $100 on the final price. I came up with that kind of rebuild because that's the stuff I like,  Truth is the price can vary quite a bit, but for the most part I think the $2500 number can get you a good reliable long lasting stock engine at most good shops. Tim
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By Apache - 17 Years Ago
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thanks to all..that was a great little list you put up there...gonna be great for anyone with the same question down the road..
THANKS A BUNCH!!!
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By Tom Compton - 17 Years Ago
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Thanks, Tim. And just to be honest, I did everything you listed plus some.  TC
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By Professor Longroof - 17 Years Ago
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I am currently in the process of having a stock 272 professionally rebuilt in Cleveland, Ohio. Other than replacing all the obvious stuff, I opted to up-grade the cam and lifters.It will probably be in the neighborhood of $2k when done. But, at least I'll know what's going back in the car. Of course, this does not include any peripherals. (i.e. fuel pump, starter, rebuilding carb,wiring, etc.) It seems to be the going price.
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By 46yblock - 17 Years Ago
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Professor Longroof (10/31/2008)
I am currently in the process of having a stock 272 professionally rebuilt in Cleveland, Ohio. Other than replacing all the obvious stuff, I opted to up-grade the cam and lifters.It will probably be in the neighborhood of $2k when done. But, at least I'll know what's going back in the car. Of course, this does not include any peripherals. (i.e. fuel pump, starter, rebuilding carb,wiring, etc.) It seems to be the going price.One question, will you really know what is going back in the car? Guys here are no doubt tired of hearing it, but I had a "professionally" rebuilt 292 done, which the guy didnt get ANYTHING right on, except the $3000 bill in 1993. The point here is to learn everyting you can, do all that is feasable, to double check the end product and guide during the process.
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By mctim64 - 17 Years Ago
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46yblock (10/31/2008)
Professor Longroof (10/31/2008)
I am currently in the process of having a stock 272 professionally rebuilt in Cleveland, Ohio. Other than replacing all the obvious stuff, I opted to up-grade the cam and lifters.It will probably be in the neighborhood of $2k when done. But, at least I'll know what's going back in the car. Of course, this does not include any peripherals. (i.e. fuel pump, starter, rebuilding carb,wiring, etc.) It seems to be the going price. One question, will you really know what is going back in the car? Guys here are no doubt tired of hearing it, but I had a "professionally" rebuilt 292 done, which the guy didnt get ANYTHING right on, except the $3000 bill in 1993. The point here is to learn everyting you can, do all that is feasable, to double check the end product and guide during the process. I know this has been said before, but look at the shop you are going to have do your work and if they are a high production shop that dose mostly popular stuff (chevies) then they probably aren't going to know much about, or have the proper respect for your fine old "Y"
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By Pete 55Tbird - 17 Years Ago
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Tim; On your cost estimate to rebuild a 292 can you break it down a little further? How much are you going to have to spend on the machine shop and how much for the various steps. IE bore and hone the cylinders, turn the crank, re-size the rods etc. It has been a while since I have done an engine and I know things have got crazy expensive so can you give some ballpark figures? Thanks Pete
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By 2DRHRDTP57 - 17 Years Ago
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Parts; Cast pistons with chrome rings, Clevite Rods, Mains, and cam bearings, New stock cam or regrind performance cam (I have the Guys at Oregon Cams do all my performance cams and am very happy with the results) double roller timing set, rebuilt rocker assemblies with new shafts converted to full pressure oiling, new tube push rods, new oilpump, and Fel Pro gaskets. Hi tim, Curious about the above statement, I know you have built some wild Y's and know what your talking about. Can you explain to me what the full presssure conversion entails? I am rebuilding a 272 from a 56 F100 for my friend and it has suffered severely from low camshaft and above oil presssure as we all know can happen, if there is a mod would be keen to learn about it. Thanks
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By mctim64 - 17 Years Ago
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2DRHRDTP57 (11/1/2008)
Parts; Cast pistons with chrome rings, Clevite Rods, Mains, and cam bearings, New stock cam or regrind performance cam (I have the Guys at Oregon Cams do all my performance cams and am very happy with the results) double roller timing set, rebuilt rocker assemblies with new shafts converted to full pressure oiling, new tube push rods, new oilpump, and Fel Pro gaskets. Hi tim, Curious about the above statement, I know you have built some wild Y's and know what your talking about. Can you explain to me what the full presssure conversion entails? I am rebuilding a 272 from a 56 F100 for my friend and it has suffered severely from low camshaft and above oil presssure as we all know can happen, if there is a mod would be keen to learn about it. Thanks Well, it all starts with a full grooved center main journal on the camshaft. The next step is, when rebuilding the rocker assemblies I delete the return tube on the top and put a sholdered bolt in it's place to locate the shaft. I have a video on YouTube showing the process http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q7ZjObWyRJU
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By 2DRHRDTP57 - 17 Years Ago
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Thanks tim I have sent you a PM,
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By mctim64 - 17 Years Ago
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Pete 55Tbird (11/1/2008)
Tim; On your cost estimate to rebuild a 292 can you break it down a little further? How much are you going to have to spend on the machine shop and how much for the various steps. IE bore and hone the cylinders, turn the crank, re-size the rods etc. It has been a while since I have done an engine and I know things have got crazy expensive so can you give some ballpark figures? Thanks Pete Pete, I had a list all figured out, but now have misplaced it. I think about $1800 of that was labor (bore $20 a hole, crank grind $85, align hone $180, V8 valve job $180, installing guides and seats are extra, deck block $60 etc.) different shops have different prices. Ours have gone up dramatically in the last two years because overhead has gone up too. As I said earlier if you do a lot of the work yourself and have only the machine work that is truly necessary done, you can save a lot of money. The $3700 figure was if you brought in your core complete and picked it up a week or two later as if it were better than new.
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