The electric pump at the tank is the best final answer for a persistent vapor lock situation (my personal opinion). It pressurizes the long (now) suction line to the tank - and that pressure drives down the fuel percolation possibilities by a huge amount. If the pressure line goes clear to the carb inlet - that avoids the mechanical fuel pump becoming a heater. This is how the bird has ended up for now - rubber jumper from the frame and steel everywhere else, right to the carb bowl. The big GF62 fuel filter makes everything slow down and cook (or should) I know, but the temp doesn't seem to rise from "in" to "out" so....
According to my infared temp gun -the big jump in fuel temperature occurs at the mechanical fuel pump and then doesn't change much (at least on the exterior of the steel lines) all the way to the carb. Once at the carb, the fuel seems to cool down to match the throttle body/bowl temperature - the intake air drives this temp down and the isolator tends to help it out. In any case the equilibrium running temperature of the carburetor is quite a bit lower than the rest of the engine. I remember some (yesteryear) guys that used to put multiple gaskets and aluminum foil under the fuel pump to isolate it from the block a bit. If the pump temp went down a few degrees (maybe even cover it with a radiator air shield too) there might be some progress. I am trying to maintain the use of a mechanical pump on my outfit - easier to fix on the road.
I'm thinking that a better intake air set-up (like a pan that seals the air cleaner to the hood) or maybe a ducted dual snorkel set-up like SpeedPro56 - would drive the carb body temperature down a bit more. Cold air and fuel makes a good stiff torque band - even with the stocker cam. This is a driver car - and I plan to take it for a considerable drive some day.