By langy - 19 Years Ago
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Hi need some advice for choosing a good Cam & Heads for my 292 (from a 55 F100), I'm using it for the strreet so don't need anything too wild, the engine i have came from a friends F100 and was running like a watch. Havn't pulled the engine apart yet but wanted to scource parts first. the car will have a C4 auto in it. Opinions ??? Cheers Steve.
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By speedpro56 - 19 Years Ago
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A cam rated at 224 @ .050 with a rated duration of 270 with a 110 degrees
a little hotter cam would up the degree @ .050 to 235 and keep the rated or running the same(270 degrees)
These cams are very streetable and are much better than stock.
The 113 head is my favorite,the G posted would be my second choice.>GB
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By langy - 19 Years Ago
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That's pretty much along the lines i was thinking Gary, Could you suggest any good suppliers ??? Is the 113 Head a stock Ford item ??? Steve.
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By Pete 55Tbird - 19 Years Ago
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Hi; Can you give some more info about your ride. Car, truck heavy or lite ? What is the final drive ratio ( rear end gear ) ? Try to get as close to a true 9.0 to 1 compression ratio as you can. With an automatic, manifold vacume at idle in drive is a factor. If you idle at 1000 RPM it will creep. If you only produce 13 inches of manifold vacume at idle it will be a slug. Consider keeping your 55 heads and going with 57 intake valves. Try it as is with a four barrel and dual exhaust then go from there. Let us know what you decide and how it works. Pete
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By DANIEL TINDER - 19 Years Ago
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I know posted heads are supposed to be best, but Mummert says he often finds cracks in them around the center exhausts. I have a very fresh set of early "G" heads I was going to build for a little C/R boost over my 113's. Would they be alright I wonder for a stock motor that wouldn't get flogged too hard?
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By Hoosier Hurricane - 19 Years Ago
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Langy: Before you buy a lot of parts, first determine what engine you have. If you have an original engine from a '55 F100, it should be a 239. This is not to say someone didn't install a 292 which you later received, it's a bolt-in swap. There would be no need to put big valves in a 239, and the compression would be very low with G or 113 heads. Yes, the 113s are factory heads, the complete casting number is 5752113. John
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By RB - 19 Years Ago
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If you really do have a 292 and not a smaller engine, the non posted G heads would be perfect. You need as much compression as you can get, and the G's help plus have the big valves. When you assemble the engine make sure you have close to a 0 deck height. With a .040 head gasket and 0 deck you will be close to 9:1 compression
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By langy - 19 Years Ago
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Thanks for that John, Will check numbers and let you know. It came from a good friend but i guess anyone can make a mistake. Steve.
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By langy - 19 Years Ago
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John checked engine number today and your right its a 239, Number is EBU, Should have checked instead of trusting someone i guess. I may as well use it as i have got it now, Any advice in pepping it up would be appreciated. Cheers Steve.
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By Hoosier Hurricane - 19 Years Ago
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Steve: EBU was '54 passenger car, EBV '55 truck. If you have an EBU, there some things to consider. First, pistons are very hard to find. Second, this is the only Y that used larger cam journals and a 13 tooth distributor gear, so aftermarket cams are in the same boat as pistons. The original distributor was vacuum advance only, but can be changed to later style. Also, I hear that later heads have some differences in water passages, so are not a bolt on as such. Ford once offered a special head gasket to put later heads on '54s, so I would assume that by studying the heads, blocks, and gaskets, you could probably make them work. All is not lost. If you bore the block 1/8", you can make it a 256. 256 pistons are probably hard to find also, but 272 pistons will work. You could also use a 272/292 crank and make it a 272. A cam grinder could probably regrind your original cam to a better performance grind, but an all-out race grind could probably not be done. If you decide to stick with that block, let me know and we'll map out a plan. Personally, I think you would be happier with a 292, it can be bored to 302, and better heads and cams are available. Speed costs money, how fast can you afford to go?
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By speedpro56 - 19 Years Ago
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I agree with John, I think you would be better off getting a 292 block which are still reasonable in cost and build from there. A lot more parts are available and more affordable and the 292 will lend itself with more performance upgrades as compared to the 239 and 256 c.i. As for cam grinders I've had good luck with compcams. The reason I like 113 heads is that they are all posted, firing chambers are slightly larger due to unshrouding the intake valves and is rated at 9.0 cr as to the G heads with a smaller combustion chamber rated at 9.7 cr. They are all good heads to use including the unposted G heads and the G heads will be a little cheaper in some cases. As far as the cams go the factory cams were too small from my experience. These engines can handle one or two size upgrades with no real problems and I didn't see any gas mileage drop but performance did go up. >Gary
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By langy - 19 Years Ago
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John i'm in the Uk so Y blocks are not very readily available, I could probably move the 239 on to a restorer in the U.k. I had it destined to go in a 31A Roadster pickup i'm building as a nice shop truck and to be a sort of showcase for my Rodshop, i've built lot's of 302's in the past and i also own a 289 powered T Bucket that runs 12.6 quarters, i like my Ford's to run Ford engines and choose the Y block as they are fairly unusual over here. There are so many car's here fitted with with SBC that it's boring, I'm also currently building a 32 roadster with a 1959 394 Olds in it also. I'm not looking for a street screamer just a realible small engine with a bit of power, Gas is currently $8.60 per gallon and climbing so need to be a bit sensible. Your thoughts & advice is always appreciated as usual. Cheers Steve.
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By Hoosier Hurricane - 19 Years Ago
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Steve: A 239 may power your light street rod very acceptably, unless you want to challenge some of those gm powered rods. Depending on the block's condition, you might get by OK with a re-ring, some port work and larger intake valves (you wouldn't need the 1 15/16 G head valves), and a reground cam to give it that "hot rod sound". And it would be easy on gas. Intake manifold selections are limited, the only factory 4 barrel that fits properly is the '54 Merc one. There were quite a few tripower manifolds for it in their day, some are still around. Later manifolds have very poor port match with the early heads, and gasket seal is iffy. So, maybe later heads are worth the trouble. You don't need the large valve versions, the '55-'56 heads would work well. They can be milled for increased compression. When I said 272 pistons would work, I forgot about compression height, they would be too far down the bore. They would work with a 272 crank however. Are engine parts available in the UK for Y Blocks, or do they have to be shipped from another country? John
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By langy - 19 Years Ago
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John i have to get anything i need from the U.S., Nobody holds Y parts in the U.K. I will be on the lookout for a 292 now as i advertised the 239 this morning and sold it in 1 hour !!! Result i think You wouldn't know of one for sale would you ??? Cheers Steve.
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By DANIEL TINDER - 19 Years Ago
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Gary;
Re: "G" head CR, calculations by Bruce at YBM demonstrate you would have to bore & stroke to 330 c.i. to get 9.7 (flat-top pistons) and that's with 0 deck height.
I was thinking about a little grinding around the intakes for better breathing (to match the "113" chamber) when I build the "G" heads. If Bruces' math is right, I should end up around 9:1 with a .060 over 292.
I'm running 113's now with a steel gasket and can't get my standard bore 292 to ping on regular no matter how much advance I use. If I stay with the stock carb/manifolds, I might be better off with the original "G" chamber, even if a bit shrouded?
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By speedpro56 - 19 Years Ago
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I believe bruce (YBM) would be more accurate on the compression ratios than what ford advertised.I think ford fudged a little on their crs.Your G heads will work just fine for your application,the 113s I believe are better suited for more performance buildups.You lose a little compression when using newer composite thicker head gaskets as the originals were steel and thinner.Resurfacing the heads ten to twenty thousands should get you close to the cr you originaly had if using the new composite instead of the steel shim, and unshrouding will help if you're trying to up the performance some.>Gary
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By langy - 19 Years Ago
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Just to keep you up to speed i had a bit of luck yesterday and found a 58 292 (B9AE-F) just 100 miles from me in England, Paid £200 ($371) for it which i think is real good as it has a reground crank and good bores. Also the guy had a set of polished Thunderbird Aluminium Valve covers for £100 ($185). Some cloud's have a silver lining eh !!! Steve.
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By speedpro56 - 19 Years Ago
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Steve,YOU did GREAT!!! if the engine's in good shape.I would pay that in a New York minute if I needed one.Good luck.>Gary
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By bird55 - 19 Years Ago
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good snag on the aluminum valve covers too!
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By langy - 19 Years Ago
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For sure, i've been looking for Thunderbird covers for a while but had gave up hope of finding some at a reasonable price/condition. I just gave them a polish and they are perfect. Thanks Steve.
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By PF Arcand - 19 Years Ago
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Steve; As John has said, & has been discussed in YBM., hopping up that engine would be difficult. If it runs like a "watch" & you don't have alot of money & expertise with these motors, a later 272-292 would be the better route.. or just install and drive it. If it's in nice shape you could try running an Ad in the Crown Victoria Assoc. newsletter. Somebody restoring a 54 Ford might be interested in it.. - Paul
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By langy - 19 Years Ago
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Thanks Paul but i've sold it now and got myself a nice 292. Cheers Steve.
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