Intake Manifold


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By Outlaw56 - 16 Years Ago
I am installing a stock intake manifold (ECZ-9425-B) on my 292 Y Block. I have an Edelbrock Thunder Series 500 carb with electric choke. There is a tube running from one side of the manifold to the other. It runs thru the bottom inside of the manifold and has a small dish fitting on one side hooked to the tube. There is nothing on the side it exits (opposite side of the manifold) except the open end of the tube flush with the manifold. This is located in approximately the center of the manifold. I assume this has something to do with operation of a manual choke. If I have no need for it, can I remove the dish fitting on one side and plug the holes on both sides?  When I removed the manifold, I also noticed a variety of flat washers and lock washers holding both the intake and exhaust manifolds to the engine. Were the original manifolds held on with lock washers, flat washers, or a combination?  Thanks for any information provided.
By Hoosier Hurricane - 16 Years Ago
Outlaw:

The tube you are referring to is the heat source for the original automatic choke.  You don't need it with the electric choke.  You can leave it open, but if it is rusted out, as many of them are, you will have exhaust leaking from the holes.  You can plug the holes if they leak.

By crenwelge - 16 Years Ago
You are probably talking about the heater for the automatic choke which you won't use. Originally the cap screws that went through the manifold had lock washers only and the clamps were held by cap screws only. However, it was quite common to put flat washers on them too. If you have flat washers, it probably means the heads have been off before.
By Outlaw56 - 16 Years Ago
Thanks for the help with this. I think I will remove the fitting on the one side and braize both holes shut before I paint it. Smile
By bird55 - 16 Years Ago
The passageway you speak is not needed for your app. It is the choke stove passageway and can be plugged.



Not sure of your car application but on tbirds the intakes were fastened with a flat washer under each nut or bolt, no lock washers. The torque specs are 23-28lbs, center to ends.

I only use sealer, rtv/red at the front both sides of the gasket material around the water jacket opening, sometimes a light coating of grease on the rest of the gasket.



Try to check to see if you have good alignment/angle first with your existing heads, by sighting down the length of the head in case the manifold or the heads have been perviously milled at one time. This is an area for potential vacuum or water leaks, but usually I have found it to be pretty forgiving.



Just an additional thought. while you're at it you may want to block or constrict the heat riser passageway in the gasket if you don't have the restricted type gaskets to prevent the paint on the intake from burning off. You don't need them as much since you have an electric choke, unless you are in unusually cold climate.

If you do a search on here there is a discussion about that topic.