Pertronix uses a hall-effect system, which is magnetic (kinda like a coil pickup).
Accel uses an infra-red diode with a shutter (basically a shutter-interrupted electric eye).

My question concerns longevity and failure.  Should I let the money speak for itself, or is the Pertronix system really worth twice as much?  I've always heard good things about these systems, but I would like to hear 'the other side'.

I'm shopping online at Amazon.com for my '59 Galaxie.
Pertronix 91281 Ignitor Ii Frd Dst 57-74 - Pertronix  $98.55
ACCEL 2020 Point Eliminator Kit - Accel  $48.07
- Dave

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Pertronix-Ignitor-1281-FORD-64-00-TO-YOUR-DOOR_W0QQitemZ110344220562QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item110344220562&_trksid=p4506.m20.l1116

TC

I've got a Ford DURASPARK II adapted to mine.

The stator/reluctor detector parts inside the dizzy literally never fail (mine spent 165,000 miles in an F-150 before I put it in the Bird).

The controller units are available anywhere anytime - cheap.

The controller unit is divorced from the dizzy - so you can hide it in an easily serviced location. Plug in connection takes seconds.

Controller has a starting retard built right in (-6°) when you connect the white trigger wire to the starter solenoid.

Power transistor will handle a coil with 1.2 OHMs internal resistance and no ballast resistor.

Can be built with all Ford parts.

Also can use the Ford detector directly with an MSD red box and MSD patch cord. Or...............

Can operate with Ford detector and GM style 4-pin modules (that have extended dwell as RPM increases).

Steve, you got me going now.  How is your distributor adapted?  Did you grind-off the octagon for the reluctor fitment?  Or, does someone sell a Duraspark II distributor for the Y-Block?

I really would like to stay with Ford products.  The day before yesterday, I called Pertronix in San Dimas, CA.  I got a canned voice-mail message saying they will get back.  So far, they never did.  Considering Pertronix's Customer Support, I will buy the Duraspark setup and feed my Y-Block spark plugs with real Ford power.

I've got a PDF file of the machining dimensions if you'll PM me an email address.

If you want a better "curve" in there this diagram shows a way to get a reduced mechanical advance if you have one with a bigger slot......

I've got a wiring schematic I used on the bird too if you want something to start with to base your own set-up.

The vacuum pot will need to match the later systems - one with the "dog leg" operating arm. You'll end up with this.......

I used the larger 80's cap and a "TFI" type coil to finish the job.....

The coil and bracket are from a Ford "Probe" - with the bracket inverted to offset the coil away from the carb.

The vacuum pot will need to match the later systems - one with the "dog leg" operating arm. You'll end up with this.......

I used the larger 80's cap and a "TFI" type coil to finish the job..... [quote]

Wow!  Thanks for the pictures and the info, Steve.  Just a few 'fuzzy' points left;
*   I understand a '57 and later distributor will work.  How much later?  Did they use Y-Block dizzys on 289's?  Or, did the Y have it's own unique dizzy?
*  What model years was the Duraspark II used (so I can order the right parts)?

Looks like I'm headed to the auto parts store for everything unless I can find a junk yard that still has 1980's Ford cars (none of ours do).

BTW, 'simplyconnected' is my screen name for:
AOL
Comcast.net
AACA (Antique site)
BAM (Mustang site)
eBay
(here and other places)

Use whichever name is convenient for you.  I'm listed in the phone book with the same number since 1971.
Dave Dare, Royal Oak, MI

     289's won't work. up to '62 292 trucks use the distributor you'll want. The adance slot will be wrong,you'll need to find or modify your slots as Steve said. The truck distributor will have more mechanical than you'll need. The reason being, you'll want more initial advance than factory specs, somewhere in the 10 to 12 degree area. And around 36 to 40 total mechanical will be close. If you have 10 initial and 13 distributor ( or 26 crank) you end up at 36 total. As far as h years or the plates. I'd look for an early 90's or late 80's unit. Pretty much any 5 liter from the 8o's will work      

Early Autolite version has concentric rings on the shaft housing just above the clamping flange...

Late Motorcraft version looks like the 289/302 (three lobed housing) above the clamping flange......... 

The late 70's - early 80's Motorcraft parts will fit onto the earlier Autolite version - after you modify the upper rotor shaft as shown previously. If you start with a later Motorcraft Y distributor you will want to find an upper rotor shaft like this one.......

The "13L" slot will set the total mechanical advance at 13° distributor/ 26° crank.