good results. They're a lot easier to "get at" and a lot more

              heat ranges also.They even include a cross-over chart for you

              on the different brands of plugs.

                  R.E.A.M. Corp  P.O.Box 311   New Lothrop MI. 48460

           Look these over   they cost about $45 a set

                               See Ya

                                Bill

Bill.  Thanks for posting that information on the R.E.A.M. sparkplug adapters.  I’ve just tested the set you sent me on an engine on the dyno and likewise, they work as advertised.

Here’s the link to the crossover chart on the R.E.A.M. site that may help in sparkplug selection when switching from 18mm to 14mm.  Be sure to use anti-seize on both sets of threads though.

http://reamproducts.com/images/plug3big.gif

      Are you sure about the "Never Seize" ? I understand that as it deteriorates it becomes a heat barrier. It will make the plug act as though it's hotter than intended and could act as spot for preignition. Honda used to tell us NOT to use the stuff on motorcycles just for that reason. They didn't mention how we were supposed to get the plugs out after someone left them in an aluminum head for ten years. We all got pretty good at helicoil installations.

Frank.  For the R.E.A.M. spark plug adapters, the instructions say to use anti-seize and that sounded logical to me and especially after considering the appearance of the metal that the adapters are manufactured from although I was using them in iron heads.  Likewise, I’ve been using the high heat anti-seize for 40+ years in those instances where spark plugs are being installed in aluminum heads, motorcycles included.

I haven’t given much thought to the anti-seize being a heat barrier as I use it sparingly and if properly tightening down the spark plugs, the threads will still essentially be a metal to metal contact in the thread area.  And no problems with spark plug readings being normal with the appropriate heat ranges being used for a given application.  Until just recently, I had never even heard any concerns about anti-seize being a heat barrier but then again I do use "high heat" anti-seize for all applications needing some form of anti-seize so maybe that’s an issue that simply missed me because I use the high heat variety.  Gut feel says anti-seize would actually help in a small degree to transmit heat rather than act as a barrier anyhow but the key is to use the stuff sparingly as you don’t want it pushed into the combustion chamber area or on to the end of the sparkplug where it will prevent a proper reading.  If it was lathered on, then I can see where that would not bode well.