Master cylinder???


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By JDavis216 - 16 Years Ago
Does anyone know of a dual master cylinder to replacethe original for a 54 Ford passenger car

Thanks

John

By JDavis216 - 16 Years Ago
Ok, I searched and found the thread about the master cylinder, it sounds about the same as mine  all my brake parts are new, I have drums all around and my brake pedal is very hard but only seems to get that way after driving a bit.  Does anyone know for sure what dual master cylinder will work?

  John

By Eddie Paskey - 16 Years Ago
John

  Just my 2 cents, but the shaft that pushes the master cylinder may be too tight causing the fluid to get hot, which causes the hard pedal!!!   John--Charlie-- Steve--etc,,etc  what do you guys think??   Maybe something to check.

                                     God Bless     Eddie

By MoonShadow - 16 Years Ago
Thats for sure! My shaft is a little long and it does the same thing. Sometimes I pull up on the brake pedal with my toes and it loosens up. I'll swap for the shorter (original) shaft and see what happens. Chuck in NH
By MoonShadow - 16 Years Ago
Yup I did that. The rod with the later dual master cylinder was a bit longer so It takes away some of the play. I think the old rod will work but need a "round to it" to get going. Chuck in NH
By ejstith - 16 Years Ago
Can't you use the old push rod with the new master cylinder?
By MoonShadow - 16 Years Ago
I believe you can. Thats my next plan anyway. Chuck in NH
By oldcarmark - 16 Years Ago
Regarding a dual master cylinder replacement.Item # 330337845761 on Epay is a power booster-master combo.I have just phoned the seller to order 2 of these for my 56 and my buddies 55.I asked a couple of previous buyers and got good response about the product and the seller.If you contact him by phone at 575-544-4729(Dave) and pay without using Paypal you may get a better price.I have had enough of the manual brakes.For now I will keep the drums and upgrade later to the discs on front.Why add a dual master and still have manual brakes when for not a whole lot more you could add power?Just my opinion!
By simplyconnected - 16 Years Ago
I can vouch for the seller AND his products.  I bought one combo set for my '55 and another for my '59.  They are MBM units (made in the USA) and they work VERY well.  I had the '59 Galaxie out tonight and made a few 55mph panic stops.  The brakes did great.

On two occassions I called Dave's number.  Dave was there both times to answer questions.  He knows his products and is very helpful.  I don't know how anyone can beat his prices as they have come down by nearly $100/combo in the past year.

Let me know if you want to see pics of my brake installation.  I used my original '59 spindles, and bought the spindle bracket (on eBay) that holds S-10 calipers around 11" Mustang rotors.  With Oldirishdave's booster and M/C, these brakes will put you through the windshield with no exageration. 

Another feature I like about his 7" two-stage boosters; they allow enough room for electric windshield wipers (from New Port Engineering) on the '59 Galaxie.  Both are next to each other in the engine bay.  His boosters also clear my 292 Y-Block exhaust manifold!

I haven't got the '55 on the road yet.  I bought that booster & M/C unit a year ago for $300 (from Dave).  On both cars, I discarded that stupid brake light pressure switch, and mounted a real spring-return switch at the brake pedal.  Now my brake lights come on immediately, as I touch the pedal.

By oldcarmark - 16 Years Ago
Can you post some info about the switch setup you mentioned?What application or part# is the switch you are using and how is it mounted?Thanks
By DANIEL TINDER - 16 Years Ago
CASCO sells the switch kit. Old style pressure switches tend to fail, and need more pedal force to activate.
By simplyconnected - 16 Years Ago
oldcarmark (6/25/2009)
Can you post some info about the switch setup you mentioned?What application or part# is the switch you are using and how is it mounted?Thanks

My switch is a regular toggle switch, but it is spring-return.  You know, you've seen these switches a million times; they're silver and look like a box with a toggle handle sticking out with a 1/2" mounting post with two nuts.  This one is 10-amp.  I think I paid three dollars for it a few years ago.

Anyway, there was an existing 1/2" hole in my brake pedal support right next to the bumper, so I used it.  I wired the switch using the normally closed contacts, so when the pedal returns, it pushes the toggle and the circuit opens.  When I depress the brake pedal, it comes off the switch and the brake lights shine.

I guess you can get real fancy with relays, hydraulic pressure switches, etc.  I like simplicity, allowing fewer things to go wrong.  Now, as soon as I touch the brake pedal, my brake lights shine.  My next job is to wire the proportional combination valve to a red flashing LED.  I really like having a dual master cylinder, especially on my 50-yr-old car.  With the new disks, when I give a good, crisp, 50-mph stop, my steering wheel never moves (with my hands off).  It is vastly improved from when I had drum front brakes.

By charliemccraney - 16 Years Ago
I've fitted a pedal actuated switch from a '75 F100. Haven't wired it yet but it's mounted. In addition to the instant brake light action, it will clean up the firewall just a little more.