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By Rods - 16 Years Ago
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I did a search but did not see or missed this topic. 2 questions....
Just today, the car (57' bird with 312 Weber 4bbl) started to sputter a bit when I pressed down on gas. Idles smooth, get above 40mph and seems to run fine. Acts like it is missing a bit at about 1500 on the tach and 35mph. Nothing serious like backfiring..{previous problem which turned out to be bent push rods} but the car does lunge a bit.
Tank flushed, fuel filter clean, starts right up. Points at .015. Any ideas what might be causing this? Has to be something simple... Like the 2 cent washer in my last post
One other question if you don't mind...
The mechanic who put the Weber carb with with electric choke on may have hooked it up wrong. He has the wire to the choke running to the blue wire running off the resistor heading to the coil. I was told by a couple of people that it should be connected to the ignition wire coming to the resistor instead. Make sense what I am saying?
Appreciate your thoughts as the gremlins continue to baffle me.
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By oldcarmark - 16 Years Ago
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The best way to wire the electric choke is with a dedicated hotwire from the ignition switch terminal that is "hot" with the key in the "run" position.Should not be powered with the key in the äccessories position.Also should have an inline fuse just before the choke just in case there is problem and can also be pulled if you are working on the car with the key in the run position.If you power it from the wire feeding the risistor you will not get full voltage to the ignition.You might try unhooking the power wire at the choke cap now and make sure its not causing a problem with the ignition which is causing your other breakdown to happen.
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By charliemccraney - 16 Years Ago
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Edelbrock carburetors have the Weber name on them.
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By GREENBIRD56 - 16 Years Ago
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This manual ought to help figure out the choke ...... http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_new/mc/carbs_acc/pdf/carb_owners_manual.pdf .......and yes a whole lot of carburetor designs are licensed from Weber.
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By LON - 16 Years Ago
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Rods, Just a thought , but why not run your power wire( for the electric choke )from the hot side of your coil ???? Saves running a wire all the way back to your ignition switch .It will only operate when you turn the key on . You can still put a inline fuse in if you wish .Just a thought ??????????? Lon
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By Rods - 16 Years Ago
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 Yea a Weber... I know not an original Holley but it sure is easier to adjust and more dependable (probably just started a holley war here..get it??? ) OK...I was thinking of hooking the wire up to the supply side. Should be the same amt of juice. On the stuttering portion.. I noticed it got progressivly worse throughout the day...
Rod
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By Rods - 16 Years Ago
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Thanks for the link. I will review and see if that answers my 2nd question. Should have thought to go there first....
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By Ted - 16 Years Ago
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Rods (6/28/2009)
...The mechanic who put the Weber carb with with electric choke on may have hooked it up wrong. He has the wire to the choke running to the blue wire running off the resistor heading to the coil. I was told by a couple of people that it should be connected to the ignition wire coming to the resistor instead. Make sense what I am saying?The hot wire for the choke coil does need to be routed to a different source rather than being piggy backed on top of the ignition circuit. Hooking the choke wiring to anywhere on the ignition circuit whether it’s at the resistor or the coil makes for a voltage drop to the coil and in turn creates the potential for the sputtering you mention. As Mark mentions, simply unhook the choke wire temporarily while repositioning the choke coil so the choke is open all the time and see if this fixes the problem.
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By Rods - 16 Years Ago
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Ted, It has been hooked up this way for some time without a problem but did short the wire when it touched the manifold some time back. Replaced the wire and never thought anything else about it. I guess it the coil etc. are getting old this could have an impact couldn't it?
Rod
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By GREENBIRD56 - 16 Years Ago
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Its been forever since I looked it up - is .015" OK for a single point gap? On a v8, that can't be a heck of a lot of dwell (time) to charge the coil. A low charge time and less than "stiff" electrical feed to the coil would make for a pretty anemic spark.
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By Rods - 16 Years Ago
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Book calls for .014- .016 Always have used .015. Funny thing is last week drove it all weekend and did not have a problem. Started it Sunday, to go to church, and it started acting up.
You think a wider gap would be in store?
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By Rods - 16 Years Ago
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HERE IS AN UPDATE...
Disconnected the electric choke wire, just to be sure.
Car fired right up and ran fine.
Let it warm up for a few minutes then backed out and headed around the block.
Put in D1 (low) and pressed lightly on the gas.
Car sputtered and ran real rough.
Pressed further downward it smoothed out a bit.
Put into D2 and smoothed out.
Pressed on gas and it began to sputter and lunge a bit.
Let off gas and pressed again slowly and it was fine.
Drove up the street and began to speed up.
It started to sputter again so I pressed harder, it continued to sputter only more aggressively.
Backed off gas and it smoothed right out.
Pressed down slowly and it seemed to be OK.
Pulled back into garage and put into park.
Stepped on gas and it sputtered again.
Let off and it idled just fine....
Checked fuel filter and it still is clean. Does this help anyone pinpoint a direction I might head?
Appreciate your help as always.
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By oldcarmark - 16 Years Ago
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Just a suggestion.Do you have a known good coil to try and the same with the fuel pump?I believe there was a similar problem with someone elses car back a few posts and turned out to be the condensor in the distributor.I would not touch the point gap if its at .015.Have you checked the point gap?
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By aussiebill - 16 Years Ago
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Hi, not sure what carb youre running but have you checked if accelerator pump is working correctly? worth checking among other things. Good luck. best regards bill.
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By aussie-y - 16 Years Ago
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rods just a thought a mate of mine had nothing but trouble with his 52 cussy couldn,t find out what was wrong with it in the end discovered that the engine mounts were to old and were moving causing the bolt coming out of the dizzy with the wire to the coil touching the fire wall and shorting the engine out making it miss every time that you started to drive faster
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By aussie-y - 16 Years Ago
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in my last post it should have been 56 cussy not a 52 cussy not looking at the keyboard does this to you not old a bit...........
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By Rods - 16 Years Ago
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oldcarmark (6/29/2009)
Just a suggestion.Do you have a known good coil to try and the same with the fuel pump?I believe there was a similar problem with someone elses car back a few posts and turned out to be the condensor in the distributor.I would not touch the point gap if its at .015.Have you checked the point gap?
Now that you mention it, I remember the condenser post as well. I have an extra one, may as well try it out when I recheck the point gap... I checked the pump with the last round of problems and it was working fine (mechanical) Do not have another coil but might see about replacing it anyway.... Thanks
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By Rods - 16 Years Ago
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aussiebill (6/30/2009)
Hi, not sure what carb youre running but have you checked if accelerator pump is working correctly? worth checking among other things. Good luck. best regards bill.
The carb was completely rebuilt in May so it should not be it but it never hurts to check.!
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By Rods - 16 Years Ago
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aussie-y (6/30/2009)
rods just a thought a mate of mine had nothing but trouble with his 52 cussy couldn,t find out what was wrong with it in the end discovered that the engine mounts were to old and were moving causing the bolt coming out of the dizzy with the wire to the coil touching the fire wall and shorting the engine out making it miss every time that you started to drive faster
Since I have had such crazy and weird things go wrong (like a 2 cent washer) I will trace all the wires back and make sure all sound...
I WILL CONQUER THIS GREMLIN!
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By Ted - 16 Years Ago
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Rods. Did you disconnect the choke wire and rule that out? Your description of the problem still sounds like its ignition related and voltage to the coil can still be the source of what you’re looking for. It’s not unusual for an ignition system to slowly degrade until the weak link in the system creates problems. Most of the time, reducing the spark plug gap and seeing an improvement in performance will point to a degrading or not up to snuff ignition system.
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By Apache - 16 Years Ago
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I have the same problem in my 71' demon. Taken it to two mechanics and they have NO clue what teh prob is.. All my stuff is Eddy BTW. I tried new plugs,carb(holley) etc. (even though there was less than 1000 miles on the rebuild)...after it passes a cetain threshold she's fine, but off idel til about 2400-2700 she sputters and sometimes will backfire thru carb or stall????
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By Hoosier Hurricane - 16 Years Ago
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Crazy thought, but have you tried changing brands of gasoline? Refiners are now blending summer grades, maybe something is different in the blend between refiners.
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