If you wish to retain this style of operation - is there a Pertronixs four cylinder system? I haven't looked.....but a four lobed magnetic "cam cover" and two detectors located 45° apart could function in the same manner.

Any idea what the total "dwell" angle of the two sets of points is? Should be able to check it out with both points set acurately and a dwell tachometer. The ordinary Pertronix "Ignitor" has a fairly short fixed dwell angle and has to have a minimum 1.5 OHMs primary resistance in the single coil/ballast resistor. This protects the power transistor it uses to ground the circuit from having to carry too many amps.

The later edition Pertronix "Flamethrower II (?) has more capacity and will work with a coil that has lower primary resistance. It either has a bigger transistor, a variable dwell control - or both.

Check the primary resistance of the two coils - and are they wired in series or parallel? As long as you stay within the confines of the electrical capacity of the Pertronix control unit, it should be able to be made to work. 

No evidence that a second coil was ever in place...My uncle owned the car since '57, and the original owner was his friend, so nothing has really been screwed around with other than original mod's to the car...

From all indications, it looks like it should be an easy conversion, I just want to make sure I do it right the 1st time...

As mentioned before all the dual point ones I saw had 4 point lobes.

This would appear to be a '57-style single vaccuum diaphragm tach-drive distributor, right? Maybe I just need to pick up a Y-block Pertronix kit and be done with it...

Can anyone tell me what the O.D. of a '56 versus a '57 distributor measures?

'56 is 3 1/2", '57 is 3.680.

I suppose the next question to be answered is what is the distance across the flats of the cam - and does it differ from '56 to '57. That would maybe be a difference in the Pertronix magnets. 

Am I missing something here?

The overlap gives the system extra "dwell".....say one set of points is 25° dwell (coil charge time) and the second adds another 10°-12°. 

For Todd to get the spark performance available from the old dual point - he'll need somethig like the later Ignitor units to get his "dwell" back....

The Duraspark outfits I fool with all of the time have a fixed dwell of about 25°-26° in the factory style contollers - this is not performance stuff. Todd's dual point could easily out-perform this type of electronic controller.......but reliability/servicability are the other issues and thats where the electronics kick butt. The basic Ignitor (first generations) had low fixed dwell and wouldn't handle much current either - only the later versions would be capable of performance that would equal or rival the dual point.

My Uncle scattered (copmpletely) the edelbrock engine, and had another more mild 312 long-block built, salvaging only the headers, intake, and distributor. Has a mild cam, but otherwise stock.

I plan to replace the cap/points/condensor, etc. but ultimately would prefer a pertronix set-up based on many recommendations. However, I would really like to keep the W&H distributor for appearance & history...but the dual-point set-up seems to be a PITA compared to a pertronix.

And Billy, upon closer inspection, the points are slightly offset to create a double spark as you and others mentioned, so I was incorrect in saying that they were both in sync...

I am planning to talk to tech support at pertronix to see what they can do for me, and appreciate all the constructive information that you guys have given.

Thanks,

Todd

The hubcaps are standard "poverty" caps for '56 fords. '55 had an identical cap, other than the white areas being painted red. These were the caps used underneath the accessory wire hubcaps...

I like the dog-dish style with (aftermarket) beauty rings...they just seem more sporty and lend themselves to this car's hot rod heritage...I also have a set of full hubcaps, and the conti-kit has a full cap, but that's only until I can pick up another dog-dish cap and beauty ring to match the others...

While I respect the guys that do concours-type restorations, this car will continue to be a period hot rod under the hood while remaining true to the original class & character of the single-seat birds...It will also remain in its original color scheme as it is now...

Well, I called Pertronix and they don't have an application for my W&H Du-point...but they will make one for $300+/- for me...I guess for now I will just focus on other things I need to do (like the rebuild of the 3 94's) and stick with what I have since it still works okay...

I do have one question though...all indications show standard points set-ups to have a point gap of .014-.016". I have no specs on what my point gaps should be on my Du-Point. Can anyone help, based on there experiences with similar applications?

Todd

The ignitor modules simply attach to the point plate in the original screw holes for the points - so if you know (or can find out) the original application.....this shouldn't be impossible to figure out. The little plastic magnetic ring that fits over the 8 lobe cam can be adapted too.

The Ignitor II kits sell for what.....$100 ? Kind of hard to justify $200 worth of "help" from Pertronix.....chances are its going to be a standard part.

"Illegitemas Non-Carborundrum"

Not quite sure what your question is here Daniel...I have aftermarket beauty rings with standard poverty caps for a '56 Ford, just a matter of taste for me...the accessory wire hubcaps with integral beauty ring were installed over these same poverty caps.

I am far from a T-bird expert and can't make an informed comment about the correctness of the K-H style wire wheels, or the 40's cars you mentioned...

Todd

The ignitor modules simply attach to the point plate in the original screw holes for the points - so if you know (or can find out) the original application.....this shouldn't be impossible to figure out. The little plastic magnetic ring that fits over the 8 lobe cam can be adapted too.[quote]

The dizzy uses 2 sets of standard replacement points for a '56 T-bird.

Pertronix tech guy wasn't real clear about how the plate mounts in the distributor. Does anyone have a picture of the Pertronix set-up in their '56 or '57 Bird?

Todd

The original can only switch for a 1.5 OHM load or higher - otherwise the amps get too high for the switching transistor.

The way I see it, the module would be put in the position of the "last" set of points in the dual point grounding scheme. That would keep it "timed" to the rotor.......other ideas anyone? In your photo it would be the set at the bottom (for counterclockwise operation). 

I appreciate it Steve, pictures of a dizzy for comparison would be very helpful...I am thinking of going with the ignitor II when the time comes...

Still looking for my parts box with the tach drive dizzy unit for my heap - my wife seems to have "re-apportioned" the attic...........  

The point cam measures 1.275 across the flats......