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By MikeLongIsland - 16 Years Ago
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Hi again guys, Well today I was going to get to the bottom of my engine problems, first i did a compression test, it went as follows 1- 120, 2- 120, 3- 90, 4, 115 5- 115, 6- 120, 7- 90, 8- 115 ok, so I found this acceptable. I then decided to cure my excessive blue smoke (from one side) I was going to replace the guide seals. I removed the valve covers and found the right side not getting oil to the rockers.Removed the rocker shaft and cranked it, nothing.Is it common on a Y?? Possibly a poor oil pump? Ordered a pump and oil pan gasket, figured i would change the pump and check out the lower end while i was down there. Hopefully since the right head is the furthest from the pump this will cure the problem? ps: Where can I get valve cover grommets to go under the retaining nuts?
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By oldcarmark - 16 Years Ago
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Hello Mike! Apparently this is a common problem with the right side more than the left.Its possible that the oil passage from the cam bearing to the head is plugged.You can try putting some solvent like varsol down the passage,let it soak and apply air pressure to it.Another suggestion I was given is put a grease fitting in a piece of steel and bolt it over the hole and force grease down through to open the blockage.On mine oil to the right side is slower getting to the rockers by about 60-90 seconds over the left side.Apparently wear on the cam bearing can create a problem with oil feed to the head on the right side according to what John Mummert explained when I posted this problem with mine.Is there oil to the left side rocker shaft or is the shaft itself plugged like a lot of them are after years of no maintenance as far as oil and filter changes.Have you checked the oil pressure with a known good gauge?
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By crenwelge - 16 Years Ago
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The problem you describe is quite common. I have cleaned up several passages by first letting a good solvent for quite a while and then using vacuum to suck the crud out. I'm not sure it always works, but it sucks the crud out instead of pushing it down to the cam bearings.
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By MikeLongIsland - 16 Years Ago
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I am going to start soaking the journals this morning. That whole force grease through thing was just plain scarey sounding. Still wish Ford had a Y-Block Crate Motor
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By lowrider - 16 Years Ago
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My old man "invented" a metal block w/a grease fitting back in the day. Had a patent on it and everything. He never made any money on it. Dont be scared off using something like that. It works.
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By oldcarmark - 16 Years Ago
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That "grease"suggestion is from Ted Eaton.Basically its hydraulic pressure.
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By Ted - 16 Years Ago
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If using grease to clear the oil passageways, be sure to use white grease or a grease with a low melting point. Axle grease is not recommended as the melting point is considerably higher than plain white grease. If going the solvent route, then use a long wire to fish down into the oil hole as far as the wire will reach to help loosen up the ‘crud’. Putting air on the center oil gallery in the side of the block is also worth a try as that's the gallery closest to the center cam journal and the oil galleries leading back to the top of the engine. Be sure to put a rag over the top of the head if doing this with the rocker arms off as it could very well make a mess.
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By MikeLongIsland - 16 Years Ago
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THanks guys, I refuse to give into the darkside (and change engines). Do you fellas agree that with the compression #'s i gave the lower end is probably ok?
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By HoLun - 16 Years Ago
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Your compression numbers are NOT ok, 30PSI difference, thats 25% difference from the lowest to the highest reading, which is bad.
did you check valve lash before the compression test?
if the lash check to be ok, you should perform a leak down test to find out what is causing the low and uneven compression on some cylinders without tearing the engine apart.
you need an air compressor and the leak down tester can be had at harborfreight for under 40 dollars, 30 if onsale.
the uneven compression can be caused by something as simple as out of adjustment valve lash to something serious like burnt/stuck valve, stuck rings, broken or melted pistons or rings.
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By Glen Henderson - 16 Years Ago
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A bore brush for a M16 rifle is an excellant tool for cleaning the passage, you might pick up one for a 22 cal rifle that will work also. Solvent followed by wire brush followed by Ted's white grease should open it up.
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By oldcarmark - 16 Years Ago
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You can try squirting some oil in the low ones and see if it improves compression reading-big increase means rings bad.No significant increase-valves
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By HoLun - 16 Years Ago
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oldcarmark (9/21/2009)
You can try squirting some oil in the low ones and see if it improves compression reading-big increase means rings bad.No significant increase-valves
thats not fool proof, I did that to one of my other car, oil didn't change reading much on it, turns out the piston was melted on the top ringland.
won't give a good indication if you have broken piston or rings.
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By MikeLongIsland - 16 Years Ago
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I did try the lower ones wet and there was no change
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By MikeLongIsland - 16 Years Ago
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Once in awhile even I get Lucky ! Carb Cleaner, a piece of wire, and a blow gun, and the oil feed is clear ! Dropped the pan tonight and all looks well from the bottom too. New oil pump arrives tomorrow, i can button up the bottm, install new valve guide seals up top and I believe I will be good to go . Thanks again for your help guys ! Mike
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By oldcarmark - 16 Years Ago
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Good to hear it Mike!
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By MikeLongIsland - 16 Years Ago
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Now I just need to win lotto so I can Have it Painted
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By MikeLongIsland - 16 Years Ago
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Sighhhhh New Oil Pump, blew air all the way through the oil feed for the right side. Started it up a ton of oil on the left side, none on the right, yet the blue smoke is still comming out heavy on the left side exhaust. Head Gasket? Can't be guide seals if there is no oil up top? helpppppppppppppppppppp
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By PF Arcand - 16 Years Ago
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Mike: Do you know if the engine was apart in the recent past? There can be issues with cross drilled cams vs grooved ones. And as I understand it, there was more than one type of cam bearing used in the valve train feed position. Possibly you have a bearing that is installed incorrectly or does not match your cam application. Unfortunately, only a disassemble would determine that, if other solutions fail.
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By MikeLongIsland - 16 Years Ago
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well all other solutions certainly are failing, I am going to make calls today and try and find a knowledgable y rebuilder in this area, and just have the engine done. I still don't understand how the right bank is smoking so much and still not getting oil up top?
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By Ted - 16 Years Ago
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Mike. How do the spark plugs look? Is there one that looks like it’s using more oil or has more color than the rest? Your compression readings are too varied which points to the rings being at least part of the problem as far as the smoke goes. As a trouble shoot for the lack of oil on the right side, you can put a restrictor in the left side so that more oil can be forced up to the other bank. With the passages cleared, there is a good chance that the oil is taking the path of least resistance and just not making it to the right bank due to the left bank getting it all.
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By MikeLongIsland - 16 Years Ago
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The Plugs are pretty even in look, the threads are wet with oil, but i have read here that is normal. Today I have done alot of research and in many threads, people have mentioned that their vehicles with y's that sat a long time had stuck rings and smoked bad, like mine. The furthest I have driven was about 6 miles, maybe it needs a good long ride, as they say to loosen up the rings and thanks ted , I will give that a try this weekend, i reved it to about 4k last night and the left side made a mess, and there was nothing noticable on the right side.
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By oldcarmark - 16 Years Ago
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Mike! When you check for oil on right side I assume you have the rocker shaft off and are cranking to see if oil comes out the hole in the head?Is this correct?Or are you running the engine and seeing no oil from the rockers?
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By MikeLongIsland - 16 Years Ago
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I tried both, first with no shafts, then we put them on and still nothing
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By oldcarmark - 16 Years Ago
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Mike!John Mummert explained to me on my topic that loss of oil to the right side is a common complaint.Apparently the centre cam bearing can lose the oil groove on the right side which cuts off oil feed.Thats how I understood it anyway.Solution is to tear engine down and replace the bearing(s).
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By aussiebill - 16 Years Ago
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Mike, looks like you definitley have no oil feed to one side and other than rebuild which i dont think you want to face, theres the old oil line adaption from oil gallery in block near oil switch to valve cover to feed that side, its unsightly. But if you have some basic ability theres a fix that i have used over the years that works. Remove intake and valley pan, identify the rounded casting shape on center cylinders that feeds oil up from cam to deck, look a few times and you should work it out, then i cover everything with rags and carefully and slowly drill small hole into this casting into oil hole, tap it out to 1/8" nfpt? and screw in brass fittings with 3/16"or 1/4" 
brass pipe joining them, it just transfers oil from the good feed side to the non oil side, obviously theres no 100 percent garantee of metal contamination but by drilling hole slowly and then covering drill in thick grease for the final breakthrough, covering thread tap in same grease should take care of most of it, its worked for me with no resulting problems. regards bill.
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By Hoosier Hurricane - 16 Years Ago
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Mike: I've never seen Bill's solution, neat idea, invisible. Another possible band aid would not require disassembly of the top of the engine. It is an adaptation of kits that were once available to oil the top end of Ys. Use a tee at the oil pressure sender or take out one of the plugs along the left side of the engine. Use the necessary adaptors to hook some 1/8" copper tubing to the fitting, run the tubing as required, around the back of the block for better appearance (most of the people who installed kits back in the day seemed to all run them haphazardly across the top of the engine). Remove the rocker assembly and drill or punch a 1/8" hole in the plug at the back of the shaft. Stick about 6" of tubing into the shaft, install the assembly, and bend the tubing down to the rocker cover rail. Cut a small notch in the gasket (and the flange on the cover if necessary, put some RTV in the notch and press the tube into the notch and put the cover on. You will only need to do this on the side that is not oiling. As the second sentence says, this is a band aid, but it will oil the rockers.
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By aussiebill - 16 Years Ago
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Yes john your method sure sounds tidier than some of the plumbing jobs weve seen on these engines over the years, that might suit mike better, best regards bill.
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By bird55 - 16 Years Ago
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I still occasionally see the "kit" they used to sell for this setup on EBAY once in awhile.
It was a J.C Whitney mainstay product and something a lot of guys still downgrade the yblock for and claim "they all have oiling problems" not true.
As John said it is a good band aid till you get around to saving it properly.
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By MikeLongIsland - 16 Years Ago
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I tell you , I do now understand why people replace the engines in these trucks. Trying to find a qualified rebuilder that doesn't want a million dollars is next to impossible. I think I may just have to try to rebuild it myself, but I sure will install the equalization line under the valley cover, love that idea. Now to source parts for the rebuild, sheeesh Thanks for the advice again guys ! Mike
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