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By Outlaw56 - 16 Years Ago
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I have a generic question regarding broken manifold bolt at rear of head. Unable to access the area without removing the manifold and possibly the head. I have heard of guys using DOTCO 90 right angle drills at a low rpm to get into those otherwise unreachable places. At 600-1000, rpm, drill a series of three holes, each getting bigger, until you can insert an ez out and back out the broken bolt. If this does not work, remove the manifold and possibly the heads. Has anyone ever tried this? The cost of a used DOTCO 90 is anywhere from $100 to $300. Used, they are between $500 and $700, depending on the model and rpm.
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By 55Birdman - 16 Years Ago
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Seems like removing manifold and heads would be easier. I have never had to do that before but I would opt for removal.
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By 56 big window - 16 Years Ago
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I have had to drill out broken bolts in the past with parts on vehicles and i can say for certain it would be way easier to remove the head and drill as birdman has pointed out . If you stop and think about it , you could buy all the gaskets you need for less than the cost of the tool and you'll be working comfortably on a bench rather than laying over a fender . Good luck
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By paul2748 - 16 Years Ago
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Is the bolt even with the top of the manifold? If so, weld a washer to the bolt and then weld another bolt to the washer. This gives you a bolt to turn with a wrench.
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By Outlaw56 - 16 Years Ago
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Unfortunately, this is not an issue with one of 56 Ford F-100's. Its a fuel injected 2000 Chevy 6.0. Its more than I do myself, or at least than I am comfortable with. I assume the cost do have a mechanic do it would be $600-$1000 bucks.
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By crenwelge - 16 Years Ago
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Back when Kelly AFB was still in operation in San Antonio, Dotco right angle drills appeared in pawn shops all the time. I have several of them. They are handy at times, but drilling out a hard to get to manifold bolts was not one of the handy times. They are very handy for drilling aluminum rivets on our trailers in awkward spots and I think they were probably designed for aluminum air frames. I have gotten studs out by carefully burning a hole in the middle of them with a torch and splashing water on them. I left thread eze out removed them quite easily then. I would only recommend that on an old jalopy that I had spare parts for.
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By PF Arcand - 16 Years Ago
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I would think that if Paul 2748's solution is workable in this case, it would not cost anywhere near $600 and up. On the other had if that engine is one with a plastic intake, all bets are off..
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By lowrider - 16 Years Ago
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We run into broken exhaust manifold bolts on 5.4 & 6.8 F-Series pick-ups all the time. We usually pull the plastic inner fender and have a straight shot at drilling the broken bolt. We also replace the exhaust manifold because its usually warped.
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By Outlaw56 - 16 Years Ago
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The manifold bolt is broken off between the head and the manifold. It appears to be flush with the surface of the head. Its the rear manifold bolt on the driver side, which access is restricted by the firewall. I have found a guy on ebay who has used low RPM Dotco drills before to remove manifold bolts in similar locations with sucess. I think this is a long shot, but I will fab a bushing with a small hole in the center to center the drill bit and press it into the empty hole in the manifold. This should increase my chance of getting a bit up against the broken surface of the bolt and start a hole in the center without damaging the threads in the head. I found a used drill that includes bits and ezeout for $250.00. I am skeptical it will work, but willing to take the risk. If it dosen't work, I can always unload the drill on ebay for close to what I paid for it. I believe the clearance necessary to to use this drill is just a little over two inches. Thanks everyone for your suggestions and I will let everyone know how this worked.
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By Ron - 16 Years Ago
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Hey Outlaw,
There are tap extracting services available, they "burn" out the bolt using an EDM machine. I had a broken bolt in my trans tailhousing and I broke an ez out in it. I took it to one of these services and it cost me 36 dollars and was done the next day. He burned the ez out out too. The only thing is you gotta remove the head so they can set it up on the machine, you can leave the rocker arms and valves in too. I don't know where you live, but if you live in so cal I can refer you to this guy. Just an alternative to spending a bunch of money and still may not be able to get it out.
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By Outlaw56 - 16 Years Ago
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I have already committed to $250 Dotco Drill, Bits, and a good selection of easy outs from snap on. If it dont work, it will cost me 1250 instead of 1000. I was willing too take the risk hoping it would work and willing to have the close clearance drill for other projects if it didn't. Sometime in the next 30 days, I will have more information. My hope was to avoid the cost assiciated with having a mechanic take out the head to do this on the bench. Newer engines, this is very costly and involves replacing additional parts. Thanks everyone for your input!
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By Ron - 16 Years Ago
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A grand? That's a lot to pay, just for one broken bolt. You could get it apart in a day. After you remove the manifold, head, distributor, and exhaust manifold/header, all you would need to replace is some coolant and gaskets. You would just need to have the engine at TDC before removing the distributor, so it can be put back in correctly. Then set the valve lash after you put it back together. If you have more time than money this would be a cheaper alternative, provided you did it yourself. If this is your daily driver then you gotta do what you gotta do to save time. Good luck though, at least you have the tools now for later use.
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By 56 big window - 16 Years Ago
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Im with you Ron , Its only nuts and bolts! Frank
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By PF Arcand - 16 Years Ago
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Another thought. Remove the other manifold bolts & the manifold. With any luck there may be a bit of the stud showing. Using an alloy electrode or welding wire, weld a washer to the stud. Allow to cool some. Weld a nut to the washer. Let cool completely & use a wrench to remove the stud. Worth a try & costs very little.
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By crenwelge - 16 Years Ago
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Even if they are broken flush with the head, I have plug welded a washer to a broken bolt. I then plug weld a nut with a hole bigger than the nut to the washer. After all that they usually turn easily. I have gotten bearing cups out of tight spots by welding to them. Welding seems to break frozen things apart.
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