And definitely do some research on the camshaft.  Blower cams like a wider lobe centerline.  Chuck (MoonShadow) is currently working his way through this with his own blown application.

     Further to what Ted said. Try to keep the static compression ratio around 8.5 to 1. You might want to go find a set of 471 heads. Y blocks seem to like more exhaust duration and lift with a blower, so work on the exhaust side.

    You can use a smaller carb if you blow thru it, but that creates it's own problems as Ted mentioned. Maybe consider finding one of the old spread bore Holleys, that would give you small primaries for some semblence of throttle response and enough airflow when you get serious.

                                           Frank

Ever look at one of those WEIAND "Pro Street" roots blower set-ups? The blower has the carb mount machined into the top for a direct bolt on. The intake manifold has to be a simple open plenum and the nose shaft is extended out over the front of the engine to accomodate the belt drive. As designed, it actually has hood clearance on some vehicles - like a pickup. A "box" adapter might fit one onto a gutted "Y" 4 barrel manifold - but hood clearance will evaporate. The box could also be the aftercooler housing however. You always wanted a cowl induction set-up right? May have to find another hood to cut on ........................

What sort of inlet air temperatures occur on the "blow through" outfits that Hoosier and Frank are running? They don't have any aftercooling provision in their arrangements.   

       Never measured it, but you can feel the heat from the blower in the ducting. Hoosier's car will be cooler, he's running a cowl induction, sort of, using the cold air plenum in front of the windshield. I have to run the original air cleaner, underhood. The cars do like cooler temperatures.

                                                                       Frank

First, I want to congratulate you on your grasping of the engine workings.  When you first started to post, and you were first learning, your questions were of the very basics of engine operation and repair.  Now you are thinking supercharged, and have a grasp of the little things that will be required to make it streetable.  ATTABOY!!!!

Now for the vacuum advance.  Just leave it unhooked and work out a suitable mechanical advance curve for it.  I know you have changed the distributor springs, so it may be as simple as changing to an initial advance setting that will give you about 34-36 degrees total advance.

John

That's exactly how I have my street driven blower cars set up.  I set the total timing at 30 degrees with the vacuum advance unhooked.  Gives me over 40 with the vacuum hooked up, 30 with boost.  Keep in mind that my VR blowers make no boost at cruise, if your blower makes boost at cruise, you will have no vacuum advance.

John

 I have some thought in the past, to that idea, nice size ones , are the ones that come on the old tbird super coupes  , and mustangs of the mid 80's 

        Dave  

We'll see how that works... Or how it won't

I sent a RHD ( Right Hand Drive ) Aussie manifold ( drivers side  ) to a guy in Texas who was going to twin turbo a Y block. By using the Aussie  crossover manifold ,it matches the US  drivers side crossover . That way ,you have a pair of stock forward facing manifolds .They would look real trick if you had them HPC coated ??? What sort of HP are you aiming for ? There is a 67 Mustang driving  on the street here in Brisbane with a twin turboed 302 W .It has been dynoed @837 HP and 940 ft lbs of torque .I spoke to the guy who owns the car about doing a Y block .He seems the think 600 to 700HP would be possible .???

Regards Lon

I don't think I have any left ,but I will find you one .The crossover set up  is the same as USA ,but in reverse ? When looking at the motor from the front , it comes from the left side ( our drivers side ) and joins the right side ( passenger side ) If that makes sense ??? I,m sure I can get  you one for free . You can pay the postage . I may take a week or so to find one .Send me a PM with your e-mail.

Lon

http://apps.esg.aeroquip.com/productserver/catalog/aeroquipmain.asp?FAM=m_rfa

Take a look at the "low pressure" stuff.....

Is the item you are looking for an adapter to fit a female, straight thread, O-ring port? It may take some looking but just about every kind of junction can be made in the industrial world. I'll try to think of some other sources.....this is the first one I thought of. Most of the industrial flare fittings are 45° - not the 37° of the AN world - but there are many O-ring, pipe and tube fittings around too.

This is another source of just about everything you can imagine.................

http://www.mcmaster.com/

Good luck!

When you have a part number, a call your local Aeroquip hose dealer....that should do the trick.

http://www.aeroquip.com/pages/product_overview.html

Hit "catalog" under the "Product overview" heading and lool at the adapter fittings and connectors.