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By Skyliner - 16 Years Ago
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I removed the doors and hinges off my 56 during restoration and had the hinges rebuilt. Having put the doors back on I am having difficulty getting the doors and hinges lines up correctly. Anyone been through this who could give me some pointers? Thanks. 
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By 56 big window - 16 Years Ago
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do you remember what the gaps and lines looked like prior to restoration ? probably not perfect . sometimes not even close . its a painstaking process of trial and error . The only tip is to tape all potential contact areas so as not to chip the paint if it starts to rub . i actually ground and welded the door edges to create better gaps . sounds like its too late to do that . best of luck
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By paul2748 - 16 Years Ago
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Did you do a frame off? If you replaced the body mounts rather than use the old ones (with whatever shims that may have been in place) you may have to adjust the body with new shims. Convertibles and probably hardtops are worse as far as getting the doors in sync with the body because they twist more.
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By aussiebill - 16 Years Ago
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Having done this many times, you have to be adventureous! tape up the edges as suggested and trial fit the door and note the gap situation, as the door is heavy they want to hang down, so with a block of wood on a floor jack, take the weight in center of the door and nip up the bolts and close the door slowly noting the gaps. as it is a vic you have to start with the rear door edge gap as the quarter panel is the fixed point, and the front fender is the adjustable edge. Once you have some idea of which way to go, make small adjustments at one point only, either top or bottom hinge in door panel. Now if you have carefully tried all adjustments and cant seem to get door right, file or grind out the relative hinge holes to allow more adjustment. This is only a general guideline and carefull trial and error is only way to succed. best of luck, regards bill.
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By PF Arcand - 16 Years Ago
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As Bill says, you need to secure the weight of the door properly to avoid damage & be patient when adjusting. I had to adjust all the doors on my 4 Dr. Ht. to get them to close properly. In the case of my 57, some compromise was required, because the factory door fits were a long way from perfect.
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By Ol'ford nut - 16 Years Ago
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As all said, this is going to be fun! I started adjusting my doors with the front fenders off. Seemed to work best for me. I also waited to put the weather seal on after doors were adjusted. After the first door the next one will be easier, at least for me it was. Three days messing around on the first, one day for the next. And yes, I too had to enlarge a couple of holes in the hinges to get where I wanted.
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By bird55 - 16 Years Ago
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Here's something to consider BEFORE you remove the doors next time.
First, Line up all the doors and panels BEFORE disassembly.
Take a 1/16" (or close) size drill bit and drill thru the hinge or bracket casting into the underlying sheetmetal.
Then you'll have a guide when you reassemble, next time, by hanging the door with hinges and lining up by inserting the drill bit back in the guide hole. Then bolt up.
I also prefer to use the new weatherstrips, because that usually affects the way the door is going to fit anyway.
But please don't look at my car reference!
They also make a combination door holder and lift for getting one into postion if you're so inclined to spend the money on it.
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By Skyliner - 16 Years Ago
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Thanks for the suggestions and it looks like I just have to take a day(maybe more!) when I have a lot of patience and just work on the doors. I am working on my 56 Tbird and was just getting to the point of taking the doors off but was looking for a good way to mark the hinges. I hadn"t thought of drilling through them for alignment, it is a good suggestion.
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By crenwelge - 16 Years Ago
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Doors are time consuming to fit on any vehicle. That is why I tell people to repair a door if at all possible rather than replacing. With no front fenders, it's going to be difficult. I would be tempted to put the fenders on and then align the doors and the fenders at the same time.
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By Ol'ford nut - 16 Years Ago
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I found it easier to work on and keep from chipping paint to have fenders off. You have to align door to fixed rear quarter, rocker and vent wing. That is more than enough. Then you mount front fender and align it with front of door (checking hood width). When eating a elephant I have found it easier in bites. Of course, I work alone and don't have a garage full of jigs. Just the floor jack and a block of wood. PS. You have a great looking car there in the photo. Love the color!
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By uncleaud - 16 Years Ago
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I always let my door hang on the hinge with out support when I'm adjusting. Thats what they do in real life. I take the latch off the door or post so it doesn't move the door around and make a false fit. Then I adjust the front body line (this is on a 57 tbird and the front fenders are solid) maybe in your case it coould be the rear line. If the non adjustble line is straight and the other line is off then you will probably have to adjust the body. On the t-bird the back of the door is raised by removing shims at the radiator support or removing shims at the mount under the rear of the door. The rear line can be opened or closed by removal or adding shims to the rear body mount. When the door fits the hole free and clean then I put the latch back on and make sure it don't change my lines. Body shims on the old Ford make a big difference.
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By Skyliner - 16 Years Ago
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Good suggestion on removing the latch. I think I will try that approach.
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By Daniel Jessup - 16 Years Ago
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Skyliner - do you have the tool needed for the hardware that holds the striker plate to the door jamb? Where did you get yours? Dan
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By Skyliner - 16 Years Ago
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The striker plate is held on by phillips screws. I used a 3/8" socket with a large phillips head on the socket. craftsman part number 44373.
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By Daniel Jessup - 16 Years Ago
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somebody must have replaced mine. It has an oblong dog-bone shaped head on it (recessed of course like a screw head)
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By PWH42 - 16 Years Ago
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Daniel, That screw head you're describing is called a clutch head.The only place I've ever seen them used is on some John Deere farm equipment.They were used to hold the access panels on the cross auger of a combine head that I had 25 years ago.
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By Ol'ford nut - 16 Years Ago
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Skyliner- How did your door project end up? Success I hope!
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By Skyliner - 16 Years Ago
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Having had a day to try the doors as yet. I want a day where I have the focus.
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By BIGREDTODD - 16 Years Ago
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Others have noted very similar points, and I just hought I'd chime in with an opinion or two... I prefer to do my door alignment without any of the door weatherstrip installed. It allows you to close the door without applying pressure to compress new weatherstripping. Likewise, I like to start without the door (jamb) strike installed. By doing these two things, you can focus on that which is of primary importance...the gaps. Others coorectly state that you should adjust the rear door gap first. after this is done it makes adjusting the leading adge of the door to the cowl much more straightforward. After this is done, go back and put your strike on, and weatherstripping. The front clip has extensive room for adjustment...if you make it through the doors, getting the core support, hood, and fenders located correctly will be a cinch...
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By Skyliner - 16 Years Ago
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Todd, I agree about the weatherstripping. I put it on before mounting the doors and it is causing a challenge in aligning the doors because it is difficult to get the door compressed. However I am reluctant to take the weatherstripping off and redo. May come to that if it gets to difficult. Hope not.
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