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By 59flatbedford - 16 Years Ago
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hello there im fairly new here but i really like y blocks. i am in the middle of building a 59 ford f100 and plan on putting a warmed up 292 in it.
Plans for it
-machined and bored block
-milled heads to level everything out and up compression
-rebuilt heads with hard seats, maybe new valve train
-refurbished rods 292 rods
-alum 4 barrel intake
-better cam
-everything else rebuilt or new
-a few dress up parts
-headers and dual exhaust
-would love a turned down 312 crank but doubt that happens
some questions i have for you guys are what would you guys suggest for this motor. its going in a 59 ford f100 that i converted to 4wd with the hopes of it being a daily driver.
Question i have for you guys
-Any suggestion on a good cam? I want a pretty good lope but dont want to lose all my low end
- Any intakes other than the blue thunder coming out anytime soon?
-what would be some good mods to the heads? im guessing port and pollish, what about valve train up grades? stainless valves? would love roller rockers just so i could tell people about them but they would really serve me no good, would they?
-anything else you guys could suggest to make this motor better, im not looking to build a race car but would still like a pretty strong motor
-One final random thought. I was thinking about maybe adding a air induction system of some sort, nothing insane but i was thinking that a nice looking hood scoop would look pretty cool but if im gunna go through the trouble of building one into my hood it better be hooked up to something on the other end. also i was thinking i could build an induction tube that went from the opening in the front of the hood back to the carb. I was thinking building some sort of airbox above the carb that the hood scoop and induction tube ran into just for the fun of it. I had some concerns about this tho, im sure this would work fine while driving down the road, but would this restrict the air flow to much and choke it out at stoplights and such. And yes i realize this would be kinda pointless on a street truck but i figured i ask just to see what you guys said. Sorry about the extremely long post and thanks in advance for any suggestions you give me
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By Hollow Head - 16 Years Ago
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Welcome to this site! Great forum, great people. Insane too  .My 50 cents go to '69 Ford Torino Cobra style scoop on '59 hood. Not too high, but has nice shapes... 
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By 55Birdman - 16 Years Ago
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Contact John Mummert and look at his website. He is a Y-block guru and is always happy to help.He has everything you need. Calling him is best. www.ford-y-block.com I have brand new never installed 312 crank if interested. Forged.
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By charliemccraney - 16 Years Ago
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59flatbedford (10/14/2009)
And yes i realize this would be kinda pointless on a street truck but i figured i ask just to see what you guys said.
I don't think it is pointless. In fact, it is quite fun!
A lot of guys like the Isky E4 for street use. To avoid loosing all of your bottom end, I'd keep it below about 225ish degrees at .050".
John Mummert's new intake is available.
Any idea which heads you have? I'd look for some G or 113 heads for a naturally aspirated 292. They are two of the highest compression heads. With these on a .050 over 292, you will not be above 9:1; closer to 8.75. I'd at least install new stainless valves and hard exhaust seats. A port and polish can be expensive. Determine your goal before you spend money on that. If it's not necessary, it's a big waste of money. Roller rockers can help. I think I'm going to mess this explaination up but here it goes. They will open the valve faster, and farther. Even if your heads and intake can't flow any more at the maximum lift, they will be able to maximize the flow at lower lifts and better fill the cylinder. And, I think you pick up a little duration. But here again, rollers may not be worth the expense.
Install dual exhaust with headers or rams horn manifolds. When you're building the engine, take the time to set the proper clearance between the engine and the head. It varies slightly from builder to builder but you want around .045" clearance. This will maximize compression and reduce the engine's tendency to knock.
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By 59flatbedford - 16 Years Ago
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thanks for the replies and i am always looking at Mummert's site and he has some really slick stuff. i would love to have one of his stroker kits but im a college kid so dont think so. I have not seen his new intake listed over there yet am i just missing it or could someone tell me where i might be able to find it.
-when you say set the correct distance from the engine to the head. What exactly do you mean like the head gasket thickness or what?
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By charliemccraney - 16 Years Ago
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I don't think John has them on his site yet. I'm sure he'll be around later.
It's the clearance between the top of the piston at top dead center and the flat surface of the head. The head gasket thickness does play a part. You will need to pre-assemble the engine, set the piston to top dead center... you know what, here are some links. It will be explained in these links better than I can do it.
http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic2929-3-1.aspx?
http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic8010-3-1.aspx?
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By speedpro56 - 16 Years Ago
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What tranny will you be using and what rear end ratio? That can determine the cam to be used with your combo. The 225 @ .050 is pretty correct if using an automatic and not going with a stall on the converter. If going with a stick shift then you can up the cam in the neighborhood of .032 too .035 @ .050 and still have a decent bottom end and still carry the rpms too something close to 5500 rpms with the right gearing. If using a stick w/overdrive then you have more room to play with.
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By 59flatbedford - 16 Years Ago
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im planning on running a dodge nv4500 5speed stick. so yea it will have overdrive, and im not sure on the rear yet. it has 3.92? right now but that might go to like a 3.73 or so but im not sure.
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By Oldmics - 16 Years Ago
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Camshaft suggestion if interested http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic31665-7-1.aspx The E2 is 226 degrees when measured at .050.On the money as per charlies suggestion. Hawkin my stuff-But it is GOOD STUFF Oldmics
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By 59flatbedford - 16 Years Ago
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ok doing all this searching about cams is got me asking questions. so could some what explain to me what the specs mean, i mean i realize the valve lift and stuff but just a good run down would be good and also what effects that changing these different specs have on a engine. thanks and sorry bout the dumb questions.
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By 55Birdman - 16 Years Ago
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No such thing as a "dumb" question.
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By speedpro56 - 16 Years Ago
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Some examples I've done with a mild 312 is as follows> 224 @ .050 270 running duration was ok. That suggestion was given to me from barns & reese racing. Later I swapped it out for a 235 @ .050 270 running duration and the engine ran alot better which showed me these cars were under cammed for any real performance. But I have had some real good performing yblocks from the factory (1957 ford 300) 272? that run like a bat out a if it had wings it would fly.Don't know the cam specs it had but my guess would be the one with a running duration of 252 ????? I've also run the 232 @ .050 ma259 with great results as well. Sooooooo as you can see choosing a cam is not always easy . My pretty well stock 56 sunliner 292 yblock has a 220 @ .050 264 with a fordomatic tranny and I wish I had gone to at least a 224 @ .050 with a running duration of 270 when I changed it several years ago. Some of the other gurus on this site can break down these numbers for you and tell you what they mean such as the larger the # at .050 the hotter or more radical the cam and the more the valve is opened. Go too much and you lose your bottom end. These numbers I'm showing you here are what I call mild to mild + meaning street to mild street and strip.
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By John Mummert - 16 Years Ago
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It can be a little difficult to get a lopey idle and not lose low end power. The lope is caused by inefficiency at idle which usually extends up the rpm range to some extent. A narrow lobe center such 108 degrees will help the sound and can help low end. This type of cam usually works best with headers. You don't want too much overlap (when both valves are open) with exhaust manifolds. Manifolds don't scavenge exhaust so best to use 110 degree with manifolds. So, an Isky E4 will work well with headers but due to very short duration it will give up before 5000rpm. I'm not familiar with the E2 that oldmics now has. The RPM300 has 112 lobe centers and should be avoided for low rpm power. We have 224 @ .050" on 110 degree that would work with manifolds. Our 270 is 224 on 108 and would work well with headers. These cams will work to 5300 or so. Your engine should have 5750-471 heads, which flow well but are very low compression. The ECZ-G or 5752-113 mentioned earlier would raise compression. Deck height is the distance that the piston is down the cylinder when it is as high in the cylinder as it will go. Factory spec was approx .025". Replacement pistons net approx .040". Most head gaskets are around .045. .040" + .045" = .085". To run the best you want the piston to come about .045" from the bottom of the cylinderhead. Bottom line: you need to remove material from the top of the block to get the best results.
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By 59flatbedford - 16 Years Ago
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ok so do you think either the 270 or 284 grind from Mummert would be good choices. the 284 might be kinda rough for my application but i will be running a nv4500 5 speed so i will have a fairly low first gear and ill have relatively low rear end gears so i should still have plenty of torque.
So i will probably want to have the blocked milled untill the pistons are like 5 thousandths below the deck. and yes im assumeing i have the normal truck heads so maybe have them milled slightly to level them out and raise compression a little more. what about if i ran a set of dome top pistons would this raise compression to much to be streetable? would i need to adjust the deck height differently? im sure these are all simple question to you experienced builders but im only 18 and this will be my first motor build altho ive been around my whole life.
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By Ted - 16 Years Ago
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59flatbedford (10/14/2009)
.....what about if i ran a set of dome top pistons would this raise compression to much to be streetable? would i need to adjust the deck height differently? 10cc domed pistons work quite well with the 471 heads. As an example, a 0.060” over 292 with 471 heads and with the original pistons 0.005” in the hole will have a 7.6:1CR. Same engine but with a 10cc domed piston raises the compression ratio to 8.4:1. Don’t confuse the ‘471’ heads with the C1TE heads though as you are dealing with two different sized combustion chambers.
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By 59flatbedford - 16 Years Ago
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so any one have any thoughts or ideal on my air intake system ideal
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By 55Birdman - 16 Years Ago
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390 CFM carb with K&N filter
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By DANIEL TINDER - 16 Years Ago
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[quote][b]John Mummert (10/14/2009)
To run the best you want the piston to come about .045" from the bottom of the cylinderhead.
JOHN;
Scenario: "G" heads cut .006", new seats level with the original chamber floor, stock length valves, older repro B-2 rockers & longer tubular pushrods with optimized geometry, and E-4 cam installed straight-up.
If piston-to-head clearance is at least .045", is clay testing necessary?
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By charliemccraney - 16 Years Ago
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Only if valve lift is about .500" or greater.
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By DANIEL TINDER - 16 Years Ago
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According to Ted, even if adjuster screw is set at the top of it's travel (maximum lift) when geometry is optimized, then 1.56:1 (resulting rocker ratio) X .424" (E-4 cam lift with zero lash) = .441". Enough less than .500" to allow a safe margin of error, so no clay test likely needed (?).
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By DANIEL TINDER - 16 Years Ago
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Oops! E-4 cam lift is .283".
.425" (read the wrong line while typing) is VALVE lift with 1.5:1 ratio. Sorry about that.
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