After cranking her over a little with the coil disconnected to check valves and check signs of oil flow.  I connected the coil and it only took a half a can of starting fluid and half-dozens tries and half-starts, then finally.........

SHE RAN AND IDLED ALL BY HERSELF!!!

It was sooooo cool!  Just purred away.  I let her run until she warmed up.. no leaks, fuel pump must be working it seemed to be sucking fuel from the fuel can just fine.  I shifted into gear and rear axle turned (on jack stands) too cool!!

So...here is the results of the "running" test.

1) I have oil flowing from driver's side over-flow tube..but not passgner side, what does this mean?

2) if I tried to give the car any gas she would immediately kill...instantly. I couldn't get the engine to come off idle at all...seems carb is providing good fuel flow only in the idle circuit??  Now what?

3) oil pressure light never illuminated when I had the key in run before the engine started.  The generator light came on (and went off when the engine was running) but what should I look into for the oil light?  Likely the bulb or sender?

What carb do you have?  May be gummed up main circuit, although it seems that the idle would be plugged too.  Anyway you are on the road to some good times.

On another thread I've figured out I have a Holley 94 carb.  I tried to rebuild a carb once when I was 17 and the engine never ran again But these are supposed to be pretty simple so maybe I should try.  I also heard you can buy rebuilt 94s at the parts stores for $100?? 

It was really frustrating lat night, I really wanted to hear her rev up a little, the valvetrain sounds like a bunch of chipmunks tap-dancing...I wanted to see those babies dance!  But each time I touched the throttle, the engine would instantly bog down and die.

I can't wait to go listen to it run again!! It was so cool!

On the carb - have you checked to make sure that when you WOT a time or two that you are getting a steady stream of gas/air mix shooting in the bores? Make sure the fuel bowl is filled and then give it a couple of squirts...odds are that nothing is coming through the jets. I would suggest removing the air horn assembly (top of carb - 5 or 6 screws I believe) and checking the fuel bowl. After having a looksee there and after making sure that the small accelerator pump is not all dried up/cracked you will have some more info to go on. These carbs are very EASY to rebuild and reassemble. Just make sure that your power valve is ok when you rebuild.

Glad to hear about the success

Tim is not available by computer today.  He wanted me to mention to you that a real important thing to do for best performance at all engine speeds is to change to a 57 or later distributor.  There is talk that a remanufactured unit is available at AutoZone (you may have a different name in your territory) for around $100.  This is a common swap for most everyone.  He said he would PM you later tonight regarding the carb and a possible replacement for you.

Sounds like you are having a blast.  I know grandpa will be proud.  Good luck with the project.............. 

I'll check it out.  I think I can squeeze permission to spend another $100 out of the wife...

What makes the new one so much better (technically)?

I just had a great time re-reading all the posts from last fall...reading all of your advice is almost as fun as working on my car!

I went to the garage this past weekend just to see how everything survived the winter and I felt like a kid in Toys-R-US trying to decide how to spend my allowance!  I'm really excited to get this car moving.  The budget has gotten even smaller, but if I can just finish the carb business, re-do the brakes and put some tires on this thing.....oh yeah!

It is hard for me to imagine what it feels like to shift a 3-on-the-tree.  I learned to drive on a stick but haven't driven one in years, and shifting on the column in an old 50's car sounds too cool! my clutch foot is eager.

I'm hoping to get into the carb this weekend...but the odds are looking dim.  My mother's basement flooded and you know who has to carry all that crap out up those basement stairs.  And when I say "all that crap" I'm thinking 8+ hour job..especially if my mom is watching over my shoulder.

I'll keep you all posted!

N

finally got it back together enough to drive and get registered here in TX late last year!  That first kid is now a senior in HS!!  So, never give up... keep spending time with it, even if you don't actually get any "progress"... it's now a "labor of love"... and yes, shifting a "three on the tree" is ALL THAT plus a bag of chips!! I grew up learing to drive this way and its like riding a bike... you never forget!

once you get that Y sound in your blood, nothing will ever come close... with the possible exception of a tube guitar amp...  if you are a guitar player!

Mark

Mark,

Oh yeah, my best buddy was obsessed with 50-60's music (he is getting his PhD in History) and we roomed together during/after college. with his first Navy pay check after finishing ROTC he picked up a limited edition John Lenon Epiphone Casino and a Fender Deluxe tube amp.  The sound is burned into my head pretty good  I can thank him for any knowledge I have of music at all, and all my knowledge is pre 1970

So will the y-block sound good even with the single exhaust I've got on there...or do I need to start budgeting for an upgraded amplification system??

A Fender Deluxe is / was a smaller tube amp, but its immortal, as it can be heard on most any "classic rock" song... Neal Young is said to own many vintage Deluxe's!

my local muffler shop installed my Auto Zone-purchased Cherry Bombs... whole set up for approx $250...

Mark