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By Apache - 16 Years Ago
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Okay, So I'm having to rewire everything. I have upgraded to an alternator. I'm curious, do I need that voltage regulator that's by the radiator on the driver's side? I got an alternator for a 80' Malibu part # P7127M-3, with an INTERNAL REGULATOR...That's why I ask if it's even necessary to have the regulator. I mean, that's the only thing that the regulator will be regulating no?
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By Jim Rowe - 16 Years Ago
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The only regulator you need is in the alternator. Don't need the one by the radiator. Search for information on wiring a 3 wire alternator like you have. It is on this site. Jim
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By Apache - 16 Years Ago
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The one I saw still had it running thru the alternator. I'm also kind of curious, man i wish i knew how to post pics. BC whoever wired it b4 me did a crappy job, and there's some sort of ballast/resistor connected. have NO clue what it's for
The thing is right under the B flange of the regulator?
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By paul2748 - 16 Years Ago
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Apache (11/26/2009)
The one I saw still had it running thru the alternator. I'm also kind of curious, man i wish i knew how to post pics. BC whoever wired it b4 me did a crappy job, and there's some sort of ballast/resistor connected. have NO clue what it's for
Does the wire from the ballast/resistor go to the coil? There should be one there if you are running 12 volts.
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By Apache - 16 Years Ago
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No, I don't think they're is. But itsn't there a resistor (stock) between teh battery and the ignition switch? Or do I need to get one, if so, which kind?
http://s521.photobucket.com/albums/w337/Apache3359/?action=view¤t=IMG_9296-1.jpg
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By Speedbump - 16 Years Ago
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The only thing on the vehicle that doesn't want full battery voltage is the coil/distributor and that's only if you're running breaker points. (not counting the instrument cluster, which is a whole nother story) GM used a small resistor wire in the internal voltage regulator circuit (plug) to make the alternator charge. If you can take that alternator back, you could save yourself some headache by getting a 7127SE which is a one wire (the big charging one) alternator. The SE stands for self exciting and while that may sound erotic,  it just means the alternator knows when the internal regulator needs to work and charge the battery. I use them on my street rod builds because it simplifies the wiring and looks nicer with fewer wires under the hood.Warren
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By Apache - 16 Years Ago
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ok, so i'd be okay. so for wiring up the coil, if i remember correctly... It goes something like.. Battery to junction box(starter solenoid), (now from here you'll have the 4 prong solenoid, one goes to the starter.. The other two go as follows) One goes directly to the + of the coil, the other goes to the nuetral safety switch,which goes to the ignition switch, which goes to a resistor, which goes to the + of the coil...correct?
I'M JUST TRYIN TO TURN THE MOTOR OVER!!!
Im thinkin of getting the $230 Summit universal harness, so am just tryin to get the cam broken in, it hasn't been broken in yet (3 months) and i'm startin to get worried.
I just need power to the starter,ign.(coil/dist.), and alt.?
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By Speedbump - 16 Years Ago
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You're close. If you look closely at the st. switch, you should see an I and a S above the two small terminals. The S terminal goes to the neutral s sw. and then to the START terminal of the ignition sw.(spring loaded at key) The I goes to the + side of the ignition coil and is ONLY active when the starter switch is cranking. It's function on breaker point ignitions was to provide full 12v to the coil during cranking only, to counteract the large amount of electricity the starter uses. From the ON or RUN terminal of the ignition switch a wire should go to one side of an @ 1.5 ohm resistor. The other side of the resistor goes to the coil +. That means you have 2 wires on the coil +. The coil gets voltage while cranking from the starter switch and as soon as the engine starts and you release the key and it kicks back to the ON position, the coil voltage comes from the ignition switch through the resistor. The purpose of the resistor is to knock the running voltage down to about 9 volts so the breaker points will last a longer time. If you put an electronic conversion inside your distributor (I prefer Pertronix) you can eliminate the wire from the starter switch and the resistor itself as most electronics use full voltage all the time. It also retains the stock look, helps clean up the wiring and firewall and holds a tune up for a long time. Warren
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By texasmark1 - 16 Years Ago
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wow! those pictures take me back! my 57 has been about 18 years in restoration! some of the "before" pics could have been mine... well, I didn't have leaves in mine... hope you see it thru to completion. I have finally gotten mine streetable this year... interior still to be done... would appreciate seeing your progress! Mark
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By miker - 16 Years Ago
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Some of the early conversion kits from gen to alternator had instructions on how to "cross wire" the regulator so it stayed in place but did not function. I've also seen cars (not specifically '57's) that had a resistor somewhere to run the gauges on six volts. I think my '59 bird was that way. When I rewired my '55 (12 volt) I used a Centech kit, as the fuse panel had screw terminals, rather than the wires directly connected. Has not been a problem in 6 years, and they were very helpful as to what wires were included.
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