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By texasmark1 - 16 Years Ago
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Spent Christmas early afternoon driving the 57 Fairlane around town with my 14 year old son who has helped me tremendously in bringing this thing back together. Still have doubts that I have it "dialed in" completly, and would appreciate some suggestions on a fix. Here's the dope: rebuilt 272; all back to stock... rebuilt 2 bbl carb... updated Petronix module and flame thrower... starts up real easy, good oil pressure (60-plus at idle and during driving, dropping to 40-60 when warmed up; temp stays a steady 150-180)... the concern: feels like its dragging a boat anchor; doesn't seem to want to accelerate; not a real "stumble" when accelerating, but just feels like it is "choked"; hits about 55 or so eventually, but won't do it at much more than a "gentle" pace... wondering if my timing is off, perhaps... perhaps my carb needs to have the jets adjusted... I know its not a race car, but it just ought to accelerate and run better... I'm sure of it... am I dreaming? am I deluded? any ideas?? its sounds great thru new duals and glasspacks... just needs some more "oomph"... know what I mean?? help! thanks,Mark
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By speedpro56 - 16 Years Ago
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Timing means ALOT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Set timing at or about 10 to 12 degrees btc with the vacuum advance unpluged. Then with the timing light watch the timing mark to see if it moves as the engine speed is brought up alittle, it dos'nt take much to see if it's working. If it's not moving then the weights may be stuck in the distributer and will need to be fixed. If it's working reconnect the vacuum line and see how it runs. If still not doing well then it will be in other tuning sections such as valve adjustments, points, condenser, carb, gas filter if it has one. My gut is sounds like the timing. Good Luck
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By Noob - 16 Years Ago
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Just wondering... what did you set your lash at? Brian
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By texasmark1 - 16 Years Ago
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thanks for the ideas... new, rebuilt damper purchased from J Mummert, so that should be good... believe I will try the "clockwise" adjust on the dist. appreciate it! Mark
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By Pete 55Tbird - 16 Years Ago
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Mark, I came in in the middle of this conversation so bear with me. If your car still has the dampner in the exhaust pipe that is used to speed the warm up and it has frozen shut with rust then you will have the condition that you discribe. If the valve in the exhaust pipe ( just after the right hand exhaust manifold ) is not free it can be replaced or removed. Pete
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By texasmark1 - 16 Years Ago
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damper mentioned refers to the harmonic balancer / crank pulley whereon are located the timing marks; the exhaust part you reference is MIA on mine and living in the Houston area, warm up is no problem, so I left it off when rebuilding the engine...
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By texasmark1 - 16 Years Ago
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ok... first loosened and moved the dist "clockwise"; this increased the idle speed a bit; drove it with no appreciable difference in performance... next, with timing light attached, there is no movement of the timing mark when the engine is speeded up... either with the vacuum line attached or unhooked... so, does this indicate that both the centrifugal and vacuum advance "systems" are not operating?? the best description of the way it accelerates is "sluggish", and it feels like a low vibration of sorts throughtout the car under acceleration...; not to the point of feeling like its "missing"... just not as smooth as it should be. can the above possible source of the problem (no advance) be attacked with the dist mounted on the engine?? can someone point me to a thread that could "walk" me thru the fix...?? thanks again, Mark
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By Pete 55Tbird - 16 Years Ago
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Mark The most cost effective way to FIX your distributor would be to buy a new one from Auto-Zone or Pep Boys. These sell for around $ 60 or so. Tell the parts guy its for a 1964 Ford truck with a 292 V8. When you replace it note the position of the rotor and a fixed position on the engine. As you remove the old distributor the rotor will move(rotate). When you put the new distributor in, it will move as the gears mesh. Do not turn the engine over UNTIL the rotor is pointed at the fixed position on the engine that the old rotor pointed at so the timing will be as before. If the new rotor is not pointed right, pull the distributor out and adjust as necessary and try again. Pete
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By texasmark1 - 16 Years Ago
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if I replace with the new one as Pete suggests, will my Petronix module still work with the new dist.?? Mark
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By texasmark1 - 16 Years Ago
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sounds like its gotta come out, so believe I'll try the fix first... thanks for the speedy responses, men! Happy New Year from Texas! Mark
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By mctim64 - 16 Years Ago
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As said before it is easy to just buy a new rebuilt one but I think you can free up the advance mech. in your existing dizzy they have a tendency to get a little rusty. I'll bet with a little clean up you will be back on the road with a noticeable improvement in performance today! 
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By GREENBIRD56 - 16 Years Ago
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Mark - There are two mechanical systems to work on within the distributor unit - (1) The centrifugal advance down in the base of the dizzy (I'm assuming the engine still has the '57 distributor) - you should be able (with the distributor cap popped off) to turn the rotor bug slightly with your hand against the internal springs. The advance direction is clockwise - as the engine rev's up the mechanical advance mechanism moves the rotor "ahead" of current firing position (the static set point when she's stopped). It won't look like much - but the electrical advance at the dizzy is doubled at the crank - so what looks like 10° of a turn will be 20° with the engine running. (2) The vacuum advance system advances the timing by moving the points and point plate clockwise - independant of the rotor advance discussed above. This allows it to "add" advance above and beyond the centrifugal when the engine can use it at cruise. With the distributor cap popped off - vacuum applied to the inlet port of the pot (I just use a clean piece of rubber vacuum hose and do it by mouth) - it should move the plate and points clockwise as the operator arm moves toward the pot. If you can't get the pot to hold vacuum - its the culprit. If it holdsd vacuum and can't move the plate and points - they may be rusted and stuck. On an old dizzy - both of these systems respond well to the application of WD40 and a throrough clean-up. The points on the '64 replacement distributor should be the same "curved base" as the ones in your '57 - so the Pertronix outfit should work with it as well - assuming you can't get the one you have to work.
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By texasmark1 - 16 Years Ago
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even more "thanks" for the ideas/suggestions... if the weather holds, I will try these today or tonight. Mark
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By texasmark1 - 16 Years Ago
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so, I'm ready to pull the dist., do some clean up as suggested above; guess I should mark its location (rotor) so that I can reinstall it in the correct position so the timing is not "thrown off"; anything else I should do? does #1 piston need to be at TDC? btw, Happy New Year to all! Don't forget your blackeyed peas and cabbage tomorrow!! thanks, Mark
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By speedpro56 - 16 Years Ago
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That's where I would put it too be on the safe side.
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By aussiebill - 16 Years Ago
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Mark, all the guys suggestions are great, i could only suggest to also just mark say fan or crank pulley to corrresponding point on block with chalk, just so you have easy engine reference point, just to refer to if you have to rock engine slightly to align oil pump drive and cam gear upon reinstallation, can be lucky 1st shot but generally have to rotate engine slightly to get distributor to plop in, do not bang down on dist if not falling in block. best regards bill.
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By texasmark1 - 15 Years Ago
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ok, ate my black eyed peas, cabbage and even mustard greens for lunch today, but good luck hasn't really kicked in yet on my dist. situation; got it out ok, but need some advice on what to do now... -vacuum advance mechanism: appears to work... at least I can suck on the vacuum line port and the arm moves a small amount... not sure if its moving enough or if it is requiring too much vacuum to work correct... may be too stiff from a dried out diaphram...?? -breaker plate removal: got the pertronix module removed (no points/condensor) but I cannot get the breaker plate off... it spins fairly freely, I can see the weights and springs thru a couple of small holes... they appear to be in place, so I squirted a bunch of WD40 on them and will let it sit overnight, but I can't seem to get the plate removed so I can actually see the entire weights and springs assembly... so I have no way to determine if they will move back/forth as they should... guess I'll stick it back together and try again tomorrow, then if no change, I guess my next step is to get a reman. unit and replace the whole dist... any more ideas at this point would be welcomed!! thanks,Mark
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By marvh - 15 Years Ago
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texasmark1 (1/1/2010)
but I cannot get the breaker plate off... it spins fairly freely, I can see the weights and springs thru a couple of small holes... they appear to be in place, so I squirted a bunch of WD40 on them and will let it sit overnight, but I can't seem to get the plate removed so I can actually see the entire weights and springs assembly... so I have no way to determine if they will move back/forth as they should...
thanks,Mark
Mark:
It sounds like you have the early 57 distributor that has the breaker plate mounted in a ball-bearing race.
To remove the breaker plate you have to remove the screws from the clips that hold the distributor cap in place. Inside the distributor there are 2 spring nuts on these screws that also hold the breaker plate in place and stop the bearing race from rotating with distributor plate. When you get the screws out and save the 2 spring nuts place something that you can hook through the hole that you use with the screwdriver to adjust the points and pull outwards. You may have to rotate the breaker plate so the plate come upward straight not cocked as it is a snug fit.
marv
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By texasmark1 - 15 Years Ago
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nope... not quite; the only screws are the ones that the ground wire hooks up to and one on the opposite side and I have both of these and their "L"-shaped clip/nuts that appear to ride on the edge of the breaker plate removed... if this thing doesn't start playing right with me, a trip to my local advance auto may be next... they show a "Cardone" reman unit for $40.99 with a $10 core charge... let's see... $40 versus $259 for an MSD dist... hum...?? nope, that extra $200 should go a long way toward getting the upholstery done! thanks, Mark
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By marvh - 15 Years Ago
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I thought you had the early distributor when you mentioned the plate will go around and around.
Could you post a picture of the inside of the distributor.
marv
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By texasmark1 - 15 Years Ago
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stand by while I eat some more black eyed peas...!
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By texasmark1 - 15 Years Ago
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pics of the dist. not even sure this is "original" to the engine; it has a 57 block and 55 heads! how about that nasty burned area on the left hand!!! burned it on the exh manifold the other day hooking up the timing light!
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By rmk57 - 15 Years Ago
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I had the same sort of problem a while back in my 58 Villager wagon, turned out to be a fuel supply issue. Original gas tank ,gas lines, carb, etc.... I found the problem was a plugged outlet on the gas tank. I don't know if you've replaced the gas tank, pump and all but it could have something to do with running out of fuel, maybe even a float adjustment.
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By texasmark1 - 15 Years Ago
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new tank, cleane out line from front to back, new filter installed, no rubber hose in the fuel system... all steel lines; pretty sure my prob is the dist based on above comments on my symptoms...
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By rmk57 - 15 Years Ago
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Well, if all the fuel systems new and checked out then it sounds like distributor,timing,or something along that line. Good luck with it, Randy.
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By texasmark1 - 15 Years Ago
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thanks Randy; are there any pics of your black 57 that I could check out? the avatar showing it "at speed" looks cool! Mark
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By marvh - 15 Years Ago
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That is the early 57 distributor that has the breaker plate running in a ball bearing race.
To take the distributor plate off to get at the weights and springs you have to
Remove the Pertronics unit and vacuum advance.
Where the ground wire attaches to the distributor remove the screw and the spring nut,
the spring nuts hold the bearing plate in place.
~180 degrees opposite this screw is another screw with a spring nut, remove screw and spring nut.
hook something in the large hole and pull upwards, if will not move add a bit of heat if you have a heat gun or propane torch, also under the distributor there is a small hole about 1/8" diameter. Use a long pin punch or welding rod to tap under the bearing plate. When inserting the pin punch or welding rod you will have to rotate the distributor to clear the weights etc to allow contact with the distributor plate or you could mangle something.
To get at the weights after you have removed the bearing plate inside the distributor cam is a spring clip with 2 tits sticking upward, use a needle nose to remove the clip them the cam will lift off.
marv
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By GREENBIRD56 - 15 Years Ago
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Mark - Don't give up too quick on your dizzy - they can be doctored with patience - and it won't be the first time. Just work your way through and clean it all up. Determine if it can work and go from there. $49.99 is $49.99 and you can probably get more than the $10 core value for the cleaned up dizzy at a swap meet anyway..... This photo shows the later points style dizzy - and notice it has a braided "ground strap" from the pivot plate to one of the base screws. Without that strap it can be difficult for the Pertronix modules ("electronic points") to consistently ground the coil and make it charge - especially when the vacuum advance system is turning the movable plate. If it should make current jump - like a spark - while trying to maintain the ground to the case, it can damage or disable the Pertronix module. 
Installing a separate ground wire out to the block is a positive cure for this.
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By texasmark1 - 15 Years Ago
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ok, hammer and nail and the breaker plate is out... now that I cen see the weights, which are dirty but not completly "awful", how can I "test" them by hand to see if they indeed can function as intended? should they be moveable with finger pressure on them in an "in and out" manner? if they don't budge at all, do I consider it "shot"? also, if the weights are functional, do I just press the breaker plate back in place, after a good clean up, till it hits "home"? and when I say press in, I mean can it be done by hand? thanks, Mark
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By marvh - 15 Years Ago
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Mark:
That distributor is very expensive to rebuild as parts went obsolete a long time ago.
I have only seen a few of these ball bearing breaker plates on ebay and the straight arm vacuum advance is getting hard to find.
If you go the route of a MSD set up it is much more expensive also it does not stop at the distributor as when you start sending higher voltages through the wires you will have to replace the wires with the MSD 8.5 mm as the stock 7 mm and 7.5 mm ones will leak all over the place and cross firing and missing will be very pronounced. To match the MSD setup properly you will have to add a coil so total cost for MSD will be about $480.00 vs $45.00 for a rebuilt later 57 distributor. The original distributors run very well if tuned for max.
My suggestion is to get a rebuilt distributor and look up some of Steve's (AZ28) or Teds posts on tuning it and advance curve. They have a very well explained method.
marv
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By texasmark1 - 15 Years Ago
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Marv, no argument from me on the costs of things; MSD is beyond my budget and interest and needs! If the weights are not "frozen" (see my last post) and can be freed up, then I may put it all back together and try it. Otherwise, its a rebuilt/reman unit for me and work out the "finer points" from there. thanks,Mark
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By marvh - 15 Years Ago
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Mark:
The weights can be unfrozen, remove the wick then pull the clip in the center of the cam to remove the cam, then remove the springs and note which side they came from as there should be 2 different strengths. The weights may have to soaked in some penetrating oil if really stuck, they should just lift off.
Take 400 grit emery cloth and clean the shaft where the cam rotates on and clean inside the holes of the weights. Check to see that where the springs hook they have not worn nearly through, lubricate with some oil and assemble. The cam should rotate freely the limit amount of the slots and weights should move freely within their limited amounts after overcoming the springs.
To check the vacuum advance see previous posts
marv
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By speedpro56 - 15 Years Ago
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Make sure the springs are in good shape. When checking to see if the timing was working with the light and found the marks did not move when engine speed was increased, problem was both springs were broke connecting to the weights. Installed new springs after cleaning and behold the timing started advancing and I was on the road again. Did have to put a new vacuum advance on as the one on the distributer was shot as well, BUT WHAT a difference it made on the way the 57 business sedan ran
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By texasmark1 - 15 Years Ago
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believe I'm almost there; tried to get that dang little clip out of the top of the shaft so the cam would come off, but I can't seem to get a good grip on it with my needle nose pliers; any secret to this besides the right combination of "magic words"!!??
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By texasmark1 - 15 Years Ago
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wait... the upright "legs" on that little clip should be spread apart, not brought together... like squeezing them with pliers... to release it and then it will come out??!!
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By aussiebill - 15 Years Ago
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marvh (1/2/2010)
Mark:
That distributor is very expensive to rebuild as parts went obsolete a long time ago.
I have only seen a few of these ball bearing breaker plates on ebay and the straight arm vacuum advance is getting hard to find.
Marve, i thought i could shed some light on those ball bearing breaker plates distributors, you are 100 % right on hard to get straight arm vacuum unit and the plates were obsolete yrs back, my point is we had the loadamatic and supprisingly Only had the ball bearing type breaker plate distributors here in the yblocks. Nearly all the US origin engines i have come across have the curved arm vac unit and floppy breaker plate. You are fortunate to have access to remanufactured distributors. regards bill.
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By marvh - 15 Years Ago
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texasmark1 (1/2/2010)
wait... the upright "legs" on that little clip should be spread apart, not brought together... like squeezing them with pliers... to release it and then it will come out??!!
Yes you are right. spreading is the word.
I have sometimes seen the area above the clip like riveted slightly from the clip running around and making a sharp edge which is larger than the shaft clearance.
I have used a puller like a battery post puller to hook on the cam and with the small puller rod being able to go down inside the cam I have pulled them off.
Trying to run from memory
marv
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By marvh - 15 Years Ago
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Bill:
The only place I have seen those distributors with the ball bearing plate were on the very early 57's and some of the 58 trucks with 292's all others had the curved vacuum arms
marv
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By texasmark1 - 15 Years Ago
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dang, I just realized that I have an "audience" for this problem... will continue trying to get the clip out and then the cam; wondering if the cam engages the shaft so that it turns with the shaft at all times... and also if there's any way to check the function of the weights without removing the cam... in case I can't get that dang little clip out! hope to conclude this ordeal soon... I'd much rather post success stories than whine about some problem! but thanks to all who have offer advice! Mark
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By marvh - 15 Years Ago
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You can check the weight movement by clamping the distributor in a vice. Clamp between the gear and the housing so you don't scar the machined surface below the gear which acts as a bearing surface in the block.
While clamped in the vice grab the two weights and try to pull outward to make the cam slide in the two slots. The cam should move in a rotational direction at the same as the weights slide in the slot The weights are a centrifugal device so when engine rpm increases they will move farther away from their idle position.
To remove the clip I usually use a flat screwdriver about the width between the two tangs. Slide the screwdriver downwards to spread the tangs and at the same time hook on one of the tangs with a needle nose and pull upwards. You may need a helper to hold the screwdriver in place.
Give us another picture to see what position the weights are at so we can give more advice.
marv
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By texasmark1 - 15 Years Ago
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success! with the help of my 14 yr old son (my #1 mechanic!), got the clip out, put the vice grips on the shaft, wiggled and shook, and finally have the weights broken loose! they move simultaneously, right? filled the body of the dist up with WD40 and will let it sit overnight and mop it out tomorrow. no "wick" in the top of the shaft above the C clip... surprise, surprise; guess I'll make a "replacement" out of some kind of material for that. Also, the dist. body has an oil input on the outside with a spring-loaded lid on it; looks like it would be for putting lube in about half way down the shaft;I tried putting some oil in there but am pretty sure its clogged after so many years... guess I can shoot some WD40 down that till it gets cleared up... reckon there is a "wick" in that as well? will post more pics when I get the thing fully cleaned up. thanks again to all who have cheered me on in this little drama. With no advance at all, this thing started up and ran... with a more fully functioning timing system, I'm looking forward to some real driving!! stay warm! Mark
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By texasmark1 - 15 Years Ago
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well, if I wasn't a Texan, your suggestion about "whippin' a cowboy and stealing his hat..." might be do- able, but, alas, as a true Texan, I can't go there... ...guess I'll just have to get my wife to go to the local craft store and buy me some felt... cause as a "real" Texan, I can't go in a craft store... unless they are selling saddles.
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By Bobwanna - 15 Years Ago
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well, if I wasn't a Texan, your suggestion about "whippin' a cowboy and stealing his hat..." might be do- able, but, alas, as a true Texan, I can't go there... ...guess I'll just have to get my wife to go to the local craft store and buy me some felt... cause as a "real" Texan, I can't go in a craft store... unless they are selling saddles. Not only is this site great information but you guys are too funny -Bob
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By Unibodyguy - 15 Years Ago
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Mark if you need some hat felt, I can send you some no problem!! Thats what I do all day at work.( I work at Boot Barn in Vegas) In fact if I would of known that this Saturday I could of sent you about a 1/4 of a lb!! I cut down 5 hats on Saturday and had a bunch. Just let me know I can mail it out to you. I Love this thread on this very informational.
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By texasmark1 - 15 Years Ago
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thanks for the offer, pard! I'll graciously accept your gracious offer: Mark Smith 602 Tudor Ct Deer Park, TX 77536 I promise to post a pic of your felt! hopefully in my rebuilt and operational distributor!
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By texasmark1 - 15 Years Ago
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ok, got the weights freed up and operating... took the plunge and ordered a new vacuum advance unit from my local O'Reilly's ($18) based on their online product description showing a unit for a 57 Ford, 272 c.i. engine. that unit lists 5# / mercury as a specification... one possible problem may be the shape of the arm that connects to the breaker plate... mine is straight; all the units I have been able to research show the arm to be in a slight "L" shape... still looks like it will attach to the tab on the breaker plate in spite of this shape difference... does it relly matter?? I wonder... anybody got an answer to this? thanks again to all who have chimed in along the way on this little adventure. Mark
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By marvh - 15 Years Ago
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The curved arm advance will not fit a distributor needing the straight arm. The curved arm is longer as well the attaching pin on the straight arm advance in more in towards the centre of the distributor plate than the curved arm vacuum advance. When you get the curved arm advance take your straight arm advance along and it will show. The only way it could work is if you could straighten the crook out the curved advance without breaking it and drilling a new hole.
marv
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By GREENBIRD56 - 15 Years Ago
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Mark - Is the vacuum pot you've got ruined? As in leaking - or stuck solid? The hex nose of the later ones can usually be removed and the spring loading system of the diaphragm cleaned up. 
This one has the dogleg - so I'm not sure the guts are the same... 
The fiber tube at right sets the total length of travel - and the shims fit under the screw-on cap to set the preload on the spring (which fits over the fiber tube).
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By marvh - 15 Years Ago
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 Here is a picture of the two distributor with the curved arm and straight arm. The points are also 180 deg different in the placement on the breaker plate marv
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By texasmark1 - 15 Years Ago
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Marv, responded to your PM before checking for the latest remarks to this thread; my response per the PM is still as written, although that may change when I try the new vacuum advance unit I just purchased tonight at O Reilly's... will advise as soon as I get the new one and try it out... should be available in a couple of days according to the counter help at the store. thanks, Mark
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By texasmark1 - 15 Years Ago
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got the last of the clean up done this p.m. and pieces back together... thank goodness for digital cameras... that is, when you remember to take pictures during the "tear down"...! just need to get some ring terminals so I can hook this bad boy back up; decided to put the old vacuum advance unit back on... I did disassemble it, looked pretty good inside the vacuum input end... where the spring and "spacer" goes, so I just put it back together and back on the dist. hope to put it back on the engine and try it out tomorrow... also hoping to post success and perhaps a couple more pics of the unit back together and installed. again, thanks to all who have contributed ideas, suggestions and cow hide!! thats felt to you pilgrim! thanks,Mark
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By GREENBIRD56 - 15 Years Ago
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A buddy of mine did a welding job down at Longview - and when he got back to Wyoming, he was sporting a new hat - which I referred to as felt.....and he told me it was made of "pressed Beaver"............ Glad you're getting the outfit back together - maybe the next drive you take will be a bit better than the first.
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By texasmark1 - 15 Years Ago
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Pressed beaver... hum... are you sure he was in Longview, TEXAS!!??
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By bloodyknucklehill - 15 Years Ago
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texasmark1 (1/3/2010)
...guess I'll just have to get my wife to go to the local craft store and buy me some felt... cause as a "real" Texan, I can't go in a craft store thanks mark.. now i have something to tell my girlfriend next time she tries to drag me into a craft store
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By texasmark1 - 15 Years Ago
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-dist back together after clean up -reinstalled on engine, along with fancy-pants chrome cover for coil (good for extra 5 hp, right??) -engine STARTED! -got on the road -actual "acceleration" -fairly smooth up to speed -MADE IT BACK HOME! -timing light on... actually have advance now as witnessed by moving timing mark as engine is revved up!! Now the serious "tuning"!! oh yeah, and application of warming blanket in preperation for our "big chill" of temps in the low 20's tonight! ... Houston, TX, remember... our weather is usually hot, hotter, hurricane(s), one week of 50 degrees in January, then back to hot! thanks to all who have brought something to the table on this one; I appreciate it! Mark
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By Unibodyguy - 15 Years Ago
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Okay Mark, sorry about the delay, the Beaver is in transit!! Should have it in a few days. If anyone else want some just drop me a line be more than happy to send it out to fellow Yblockers. Sorry I couldn't get it to you sooner, I had saved up somemore but it was accidently thrown out at work before I got it.
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By texasmark1 - 15 Years Ago
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cool! I ended up using some "craft store" felt (Ford Red, of course) for the time being, but will yank that as soon as the "real thang" gets here... still uncertain that all my bugs are out of this thing... broke down and bought a new vac advance unit from NAPA this week and will try it out in a few days... thanks again for your interest and support! Mark
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By Hoosier Hurricane - 16 Years Ago
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Mark: I don't remember details of your damper, but if it is original the ring with the tiiming marks may have slipped, giving you a wrong timing mark. Your description sounds like the timing is retarded. You can dial it in by driving. Loosen the distributor clamp just enough that you can turn the distributor with a little effort. Turn the distrubutor a little bit counterclockwise, then test drive to see if it's better. Try a little more advance, drive it again, etc. During the test drives, give it half throttle or more in 3rd gear and listen for ping. When you get ping, back up the distributor until the ping is gone. That's about optimum timing. You can check it with a light and if the damper ring has slipped the marks will not be in the correct place. You can re-mark the ring for future reference, but if it slips again your new marks won't be right either.
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By Hoosier Hurricane - 16 Years Ago
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Mark: OOOOPPPSS! I should have said turn the distributor CLOCKWISE until you get a ping, then back off. Sorry.
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By Hoosier Hurricane - 16 Years Ago
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Mark: Nothing wrong with Gary's method. Personally, I turn the engine until the rotor points straight toward the firewall. The key to any method is to be sure to NOT turn the engine while the distributor is out, or you will have to start from square one.
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By Hoosier Hurricane - 15 Years Ago
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Mark: A little heat from a propane torch or a heat gun around the distributor housiung will usually release the point plate. On the vacuum advance, suck on the fitting then put your tongue over the hole. Hold it a few seconds, then remove your tongue to see if the diaphragm is able to maintain vacuum. If not, the diaphragm is bad.
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By Hoosier Hurricane - 15 Years Ago
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Mark: Don't give up now, you're almost there. The cam may be stuck to the distributor shaft. Have you put penetrant in there? Grip the distributor shaft in a vise (grip it above the gear so as to not scar the bottom of the shaft below the gear), and try to rock the cam back and forth, maybe with a pair of pliers where the rotor sits. Any scars there are no big deal, can be filed out. Once you get it moving back and forth, try to find a screwdriver blade that will fit between the vertical legs of the clip and spread it apart, while holding upward pressure on the cam assy. You will eventually use the right word and combination of pressure and screwdriver work and the clip will release and you can get the cam off. I'd be surprised if the weights are frozen, it's usually the cam. Good luck.
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By Hoosier Hurricane - 15 Years Ago
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Mark: The wicks are made of a pretty loose felt. The one on top is the diameter of the hole and about 1/4" tall. The lower one is the same material, don't know the dimensions. You may have to whip a cowboy, steal his hat, and cut it up to make wicks. Actually, I think hat felt is a little denser than the original.
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By Hoosier Hurricane - 15 Years Ago
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Mark: As long as the arm can move freely, and the points open when the rotor is pointing to a terminal in the cap, it should be OK.
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By Ted - 16 Years Ago
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Double check that the mechanical advance in the distributor is working. This is easily done with a timing light hooked up and speeding up the engine (in neutral or park) while watching the timing marks at the damper for movement. Be sure to unplug the vacuum advance when checking the mechanical advance portion of the distributor. Once it’s been verified that the mechanical advance is working, then hook up the vacuum advance and check it similarly for additional movement of the marks on the damper as the engine is being speeded up.
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By Ted - 16 Years Ago
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texasmark1 (12/27/2009)
....next, with timing light attached, there is no movement of the timing mark when the engine is speeded up... either with the vacuum line attached or unhooked... so, does this indicate that both the centrifugal and vacuum advance "systems" are not operating?? ....can the above possible source of the problem (no advance) be attacked with the dist mounted on the engine?? can someone point me to a thread that could "walk" me thru the fix...?? Sounds like both the mechanical and vacuum portions of your distributor are non-functional. Although both problems could be tackled with the distributor in the vehicle, it’s definitely easier with it pulled out. With the distributor removed from the engine and on a bench, the breaker plate assembly needs to be removed so you can get to the weights below it and then work on getting the rotor mount so it’s working free or independently of the lower shaft. Removing the ‘wick’ under the rotor that’s located inside the shaft will allow some oil to be directly added to the inner workings of the shaft and help to free it up. Be sure to replace the wick when the distributor goes back together with a little bit of oil on the wick.The vacuum advance chamber needs a vacuum check to insure the diaphragm is okay. But fixing the mechanical portion of the distributor will fix most of the drivability issues while correcting the vacuum advance portion will help the initial bottom end response and the fuel economy. The Pertronix unit can be transferred to another '57 and up distributor if it comes to this.
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