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By DANIEL TINDER - 15 Years Ago
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Just wondering:
Is there any significant advantage to having the special FoMoCo tool (#T52L-6059-AAE), or will the dampner assembly usually slip on (without hammering/binding) far enough to properly center the seal/cover and allow room to snug the bolts?
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By oldcarmark - 15 Years Ago
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There is an advantage in using the correct tool but most people dont have access to it and simply "eyeball" it.I would say its much more difficult with the motor in the car obviously.To reinstall the damper I got hold of a longer bolt and used it to "pull" the damper on far enough to use the standard bolt.
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By Glen Henderson - 15 Years Ago
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If you have an old junk damper, you can make a tool to center the timing cover by honing the old damper a little so it slips easily on to the crank shout. After tighting the cover slid it off and install your good damper. A longer bolt and big washer is also a good idea for getting the damper started rather than driving it on with a hammer.
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By MoonShadow - 15 Years Ago
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The marine engines have a spacer behind the damper. I saved one and use it for setting the front cover. Also ground two flat spots on it so I can use it as a tool to turn the crankshaft. Chuck in NH
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By Hoosier Hurricane - 15 Years Ago
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The original tool centers on the casting itself, not the seal. The seal is too soft to actually center the cover. The softness of the seal is our savior, though. It will conform to the damper even if the cover is off center a little. I've never used one of those tools, front seal leaks have never been a problem for me.
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By lowrider - 15 Years Ago
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I'm with you John.
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By Ted - 15 Years Ago
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Ditto on what John says on seal pliability. Unless the engine is standing on its bellhousing end, the timing cover weight will keep you from accurately centering the seal with a sleeve tool or damper in place. I’ll just suggest that the pan rail is level at both the block and timing cover and simply tighten the timing cover down.
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By DANIEL TINDER - 15 Years Ago
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Thanks. Good to know (I have a special Y-Block engine stand attachment that DOES allow vertical positioning). Might also be worth the effort to rig an oversized homemade centering tool to compress the seal (unless the Ford tool can be located), and use a non-tacky gasket sealer. Since my original front seal IS leaking now, a little extra care will at least provide some peace-of-mind.
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By oldcarmark - 15 Years Ago
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Maybe your damper has a wear groove in it.There is a seal kit available with a sleeve to fit over damper snout.
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By mctim64 - 15 Years Ago
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Ted (2/15/2010)
I’ll just suggest that the pan rail is level at both the block and timing cover and simply tighten the timing cover down. That's the way I've always done it, although I've thought of making a tool since a friend of mine showed me the one he has for FEs.
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By DANIEL TINDER - 15 Years Ago
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oldcarmark (2/15/2010)
Maybe your damper has a wear groove in it.There is a seal kit available with a sleeve to fit over damper snout.
Damper is recent replacement. Ancient rubber is more likely culprit. Have always wondered though, if your damper is old/worn enough to warrant a sleeve repair, it should probably just be professionally rebuilt. Why go to all that trouble, only to have the balance ring then come loose and break the crank?
P.S. Another minor point of curiosity: Seal installation instructions often are merely to drive it flush with the inside, yet my cover recess measures deeper than the seal thickness. Thus some people rig a tool to drive it all the way against the shoulder (to insure it's installed square?). Or, maybe to provide additional sealing surface to prevent bypass leaking?
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By Ol'ford nut - 15 Years Ago
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Or position the seal to seal against another part of the sleeve if showing any wear groove.
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By DANIEL TINDER - 15 Years Ago
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[quote][b]Ted (2/15/2010) I’ll just suggest that the pan rail is level at both the block and timing cover and simply tighten the timing cover down.
As it turns out, measurement reveals there is not enough slop in the bolt holes (aluminum cover) to allow perfect crank/seal centering anyway, so having the special Ford tool would be moot. When the cover is positioned max up & toward the Rt., crank is STILL .004" off center, which is likely not enough misalignment to warrant enlarging all the holes.
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