1957 Distributor


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By Nat Santamaria - 15 Years Ago
Hi gents. I have the 57 T Bird with a Fordomatic that had hesitation and very sluggish performance. As suggested I advanced the timing and it has made a huge difference. The issue now is the hard turn over condition which suggests the timing is too far advanced. If I retard the the timing just a hair it reverts back to the sluggish performance. I am sure running the car in this advanced timing is likely to harm the engine. I have read some other posts regarding vacuum advance, distributor weights etc., and I have some questions. Does the distributor have to be off the car to remove the breaker plate? I would like to check the weights to see if they are stuck or worn. I have tested the vacuum diaphragm with all the internal parts out with my shop vac. It holds a tight seal. With the diaphragm back on the distributor If I advance the breaker plate by hand and then put my thumb over the inlet of the vacuum advance canister it should hold the air in correct? My does not. It releases the air. Inside the Vacuum advance the parts a spring, a tube and the large hex nut. Is there any parts to create an air tight seal in the diaphragm. Are there any parts I am missing? Anything else I should know. I should probably have a mechanic look at it, but this what the hobby is all about. Thanks in advance (no pun intended)
By Speedbump - 15 Years Ago
The breaker plate will come off with the distributor in the car, but it's MUCH easier with it on the bench.  Loosing one of the many little screws while leaning over the fender and trying to install them can cause lots of frustration.  If you're going to play with the weights and springs, you should really take it out.  Using lighter springs could allow you to keep the initial advance small for easier starts but pick up centrfugal advance quickly when the engine starts.  You can check a vac advance, usually, by finding a vacuum source while the engine is idling and pluging your vac advance into it.  If it's working, the idle will almost always go up.  I use manifold vacuum on some street rod engines to achieve a better idle without having to advance the timing like you are talking about.  A little tricky with auto trans though.  Putting it in drive causes some loss of vacuum and rpm.  You can still buy replacement vac advances pretty cheap although if it has to look stock(with the nut you discribe) it will be almost impossible.  They work the same but don't have the nut style hose connection.
By Hoosier Hurricane - 15 Years Ago
Nat;

The hex nut originally had a copper gasket on it.  Is it still there.

On your previous post, you mentioned the engine pinging when you advanced the timing.  What fuel are you using?  I believe the '57 was considered a premium fuel engine when it was new.

By Philo - 15 Years Ago
Did you use a timing light at about 500 RPM with the vacuum line disconnected? 

At what deg. mark did it run better? I think initial timing spec. is 6 deg. BTDC for that car.

Rev the engine to about 3K and watch the timing mark/pointer. The mark should move 'bout

1 1/4" or so.

I suspect your centrifical advance mechanism is sticky or stuck. Can you turn the rotor at all by hand with the cap off? It should turn ccw a bit and return when released.

The centrifical adv. mechanism needs to be lubricated as part of routine maintenance. At least once a year.

I would use WD40 with the straw on the nozzle and spray through the large hole in the breaker plate. (nozzle tip under the plate about 1/4") Work the rotor back and forth some and follow up with some 20 wt oil or 3 in 1 oil being careful not to get any on the point contacts. You may be able to free it up without taking it apart.

By Philo - 15 Years Ago
Nat,

Forgot to say; Put 2 or 3 drops of 20 wt on the felt wick in the center of the breaker cam when the rotor is off.