Problem with ARP HD oil pump drive shaft


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By oldcarmark - 15 Years Ago
I bought an ARP HD oil pump shaft.I assume the washer that stops the shaft from pulling out when the distributor is removed goes at the top of the shaft where the block narrows down.With the washer at the lowest it will go against the thicker part of the shaft the oil pump will NOT bolt up to the block.In other words its still not in far enough by about 1-2 inches and the washer cant be moved any further.On the original shaft is the washer at the top under the distributor or at the bottom near the oil pump?The washer on the original is bigger than the ARP one and will NOT enter the block at the bottom because there is a slight shoulder about 2-3 inches in.It will go in enough to bolt up the oil pump and not pull out at the top.Has anyone else had a problem with the replacement ARP shafts?
By marvh - 15 Years Ago
I have found on some Canadian blocks the hole for the oil pump drive has not been drilled clean through and a ridge has been left behind from casting at the lower edge of the block where the pump drive shaft passes through the block.



I have had to drill that ridge out that was left behind for clearance of the HD oil pump drives.



That is likely stopping the retainer from passing through.



You do have the distributor out? If not the hex may not be lining up with the distributor

marv
By charliemccraney - 15 Years Ago
ARP installs the washers on the wrong end for some reason. Put it on the other side of the shaft. The washer goes on the oil pump end of the shaft so that the shaft doesn't pull out when the distributor is removed.
By joey - 15 Years Ago
Charley is right. The oil drive shaft nominally goes in from the bottom. The clip is on the bottom part so that the shaft is kept from coming out with the dizzy if and when you pull it. The clip isn't necessary to the actual working of the drive shaft though.
By oldcarmark - 15 Years Ago
This is a US motor.I figured out the washer(clip) should be on the other end however the washer is too small and passes right through the ridge.If it was used on the top end of shaft it would work fine as the opening for the distributor is smaller than the opening in the bottom where the washer should go.Using the original washer which is bigger solves that problem.Where should that washer be positioned?Against the thick part of the shaft or how do I figure out where to position it?The original and replacement shaft are identical length so the distributor should automatically engage the oil pump drive shaft as much as the original setup-correct? I am reassembling this motor on a stand so there is no problem as far as seeing how the shaft engages at both ends.Am I correct that there appears to be  a slight difference in  size between the 2 ends of the shaft? Marvh I took your advice and had the oil groove in the cam deepened  to .032.I appreciate the input from everyone.
By joey - 15 Years Ago
oldcarmark (3/13/2010)
Where should that washer be positioned?

On the drive shaft that I have (aftermarket -  Mallory), you can see little ridges at the position where the washer is supposed to be pressed on. To answer your question-- I know the clip is nearer the bottom than the top, but I don't know the exact location off the top of my head. I may have a spare shaft somewhere in my workshop. I will look for it and see if I can measure at which point the washer was positioned.

The original and replacement shaft are identical length so the distributor should automatically engage the oil pump drive shaft as much as the original setup-correct?

In theory, yes. But in reality one should be careful. For instance, with my Mallory distributor + shaft, the shaft wasn't exactly right and if it all wasn't carefully put together you could easily get some slippage. I called the vendor and he said this was a problem they were having at that time with a batch of Mallorys.

Am I correct that there appears to be  a slight difference in  size between the 2 ends of the shaft?

Gee, I've never come across one that wasn't virtually the same dimension all the way down...but then again I have never used ARP HD, so I guess it's possible. Do you have a micrometer? How much difference is there?

By oldcarmark - 15 Years Ago
 I may have a spare shaft somewhere in my workshop. I will look for it and see if I can measure at which point the washer was positioned.

Thanks.I cant check my old shaft because the clip has been moved around.

By joey - 15 Years Ago
Found it--that was reasonably easy. The shaft itself measures 8 inches in length. The clip washer is exactly 1-3/8 inches from one end.

Hope this helps.  Smile

By oldcarmark - 15 Years Ago
Thank you Joey!
By Ted - 15 Years Ago

 I’ll summarize what I know on the ARP oil drive shafts.  The washer being installed at the top of the shaft is on the incorrect end and the washer being used by ARP is too small in diameter to be effective.  This particular washer arrangement is fine for the SBF, BBF, and FE engines but not correct for the Y engines.  I’ve sent a snailmail note to ARP in the past but I’m sure I was dismissed as just someone not knowing what they were doing as I received no response back and the washers continue to be installed on the wrong end and still too small to be effective.

 

I simply remove the ARP washer and install a larger tight fitting washer at the bottom end of the shaft so that the pointed end of the drive still faces to the top.  Reusing the original larger washer from an original oil drive works just fine if the washer is removed without damaging it.

By oldcarmark - 15 Years Ago
Thanks Ted! Joey measured and the washer should be 1 3/8 from the end of shaft(bottom).The ARP shaft will only allow washer to be 1 inch from end because the shaft gets thicker at that point.I will install washer at 1 inch and go with that.Very disappointed in this product.$25.00 and its not made right and apparently as Ted says-THEY DON"T CARE!Maybe there is a better alternative for someone else to buy if they need a better shaft than stock-anyone know what it is?Thanks again for all the input!
By joey - 15 Years Ago
oldcarmark, let me know if you want me to send you this shaft here. It is in perfect shape.
By Bob's 55 - 15 Years Ago
When I bought my ARP shaft years ago from JM he told me at the time that it was on the wrong end and wrong size. He said they did it that way "because that is how it is on the FE's".

I wrote to ARP about this ~5-6 years ago, as I'm sure John has. Sad that they are still selling them this way and won't listen to the "Experts" (I'm not including myself in that list).
By Hoosier Hurricane - 15 Years Ago
What's wrong with the original shafts??
By oldcarmark - 15 Years Ago
Hello John.I am putting in a new oil pump as part of my rebuild.The old shaft has some wear on both ends and i was going to buy a new shaft anyway.I was this one as HD hardened and bought it. Wouldnt have bothered if I knew it wasn't as correct as I would have expected.Now anyone who reads this post will know what I know now.
By DANIEL TINDER - 15 Years Ago
Hoosier Hurricane (3/14/2010)
What's wrong with the original shafts??




According to Ted: more harmonics/spark scatter with points distributors.
By marvh - 15 Years Ago
I use this shaft from Precision. I don't know if they are better than the ARP however I have over 35K on one engine using this shaft with no problems. It is machined longer on the lower hex for the retainer clip.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FORD-272-292-312-BILLET-OIL-PUMP-DRIVE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem51912b00d4QQitemZ350327865556QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

marv
By MoonShadow - 15 Years Ago
I've also used the precision shafts. Fit right and work great. It's unfortunate that a company like ARP would continously missrepresent a product they know to be wrong! Their reputation is way better than that. Chuck in NH
By oldcarmark - 15 Years Ago
As far as ARP misrepresenting the quality of the product-I agree that you are not dealing with a third world company and its disappointing that the product is not up to expectations.The precision ones sound like the ones to buy for sure.
By Ted - 15 Years Ago
Hoosier Hurricane (3/14/2010)
What's wrong with the original shafts??
In defense of the ARP or other aftermarket heavy duty shafts, they are heavier and as such, can dampen some of the oil pump harmonics that can be transferred to the distributor.  But for those of us using the gerotor oil pumps or just have daily drivers, the stock oil pump drives are more than adequate.
By mctim64 - 15 Years Ago
Ted (3/14/2010)
I simply remove the ARP washer and install a larger tight fitting washer at the bottom end of the shaft so that the pointed end of the drive still faces to the top.  Reusing the original larger washer from an original oil drive works just fine if the washer is removed without damaging it.

 

Just did the same thing to the FED engine and the Brick engine, you would think ARP would get a clue.  Oh well, it's not that hard to fix, I just feel for the guy who gets one and doesn't have this forum to correct the problem for him.w00t

By Rono - 15 Years Ago
Just my luck! I bought one of the new ARP HD oil pump drive shafts for my new motor project and pitched the old, worn shaft and retainer out. I hate it when this stuff happens.

Rono

By oldcarmark - 15 Years Ago
I can send you an old worn out shaft if you need one but I had to use the retainer on MY new ARP shaft!(LOL)
By Rono - 15 Years Ago
Thanks anyway, but I just bought one of those $6.99 oil pump shafts with the retainer off Ebay. Then I'll just switc
By charliemccraney - 15 Years Ago
I didn't realize the washer with the ARP drive is too small. I remember, when I discovered the same problem, that that washer would not go through the hole at the upper end of the block. So it seems like it would be adequate unless that hole is a larger diameter down toward the oil pump. I didn't think to check it at the bottom. In any case, I've had the distributor in and out quite a few times without the drive pulling out.
By John Mummert - 15 Years Ago
I guess I'm to blame to some extent. When I sent ARP a drawing of the shaft dimensions years ago I neglected to put the washer on the drawing. When they sent the first batch with the waher in the wrong location I let them know. They removed all their stock from the packaging and discovered they didn't have enough washer to re-assemble them. By the time they got them back in stock they forgot why they took them apart and put the new washers back in the wrong position, plus we couldn't get any while they were waiting.

Yes the washer is at the wrong end and it is too small to be effective.

By oldcarmark - 15 Years Ago
Hello John! Still doesn't explain WHY they ignore the problem today.They have been told and still don't change it.charliemccraney  mentions he knew the washer was on the wrong end but didn't know until know that they are also too small.Lucky the shaft didn't pull out of the oil pump.I didn't think I would get this much response and views when I posted this topic.I was looking for someone to say they had the same problem and here's what they  did to fix it. 
By Y block Billy - 15 Years Ago
Is the washer totally necessary? How many times will you be pulling the distributor? as long as the distributor ends are clean and lubed it shouldn't stick in there.
By aussiebill - 15 Years Ago
Y block Billy (3/16/2010)
Is the washer totally necessary? How many times will you be pulling the distributor? as long as the distributor ends are clean and lubed it shouldn't stick in there.

Billy, good question, i,ve seen more without the washer, i,ve also seen the shaft glued into dist end.