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By DANIEL TINDER - 15 Years Ago
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Can't find in shop manual. Anybody know for sure?
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By Hoosier Hurricane - 15 Years Ago
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Never saw brass ones. The center one had a longer unthreaded grip area, similar to a clutch pressure plate bolt.
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By Ted - 15 Years Ago
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Starter bolts are typically standard grade 5/16”X18X 1.125” shouldered steel bolts. Nothing fancy. Anything more than grade five here would be overkill. 12-15 ft/lbs torque.
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By DANIEL TINDER - 15 Years Ago
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Hoosier Hurricane (4/11/2010)
Never saw brass ones. The center one had a longer unthreaded grip area, similar to a clutch pressure plate bolt.
Don't know where they came from. I'm guessing the guys I hired years ago to install the starter must not have liked the looks of the original bolts. I just couldn't maneuver it into position myself with a new rubber seal (it takes three hands to compress the seal and start the bolts).
My torque chart lists grade 5, 5/16" at 14 ft. lbs. Seems a bit low for a part under so much stress?
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By paul2748 - 15 Years Ago
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Don't know where they came from. I'm guessing the guys I hired years ago to install the starter must not have liked the looks of the original bolts. I just couldn't maneuver it into position myself with a new rubber seal (it takes three hands to compress the seal and start the bolts).
My torque chart lists grade 5, 5/16" at 14 ft. lbs. Seems a bit low for a part under so much stress?
Flatheads have two, 1/4 inch diameter. They do have a bracket that attaches to one and to a pan bolt. So the YBlocks have much more.
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By oldcarmark - 15 Years Ago
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14 lbs is what the shop manual lists for those bolts.I dont know if you tried this but that seal can be glued in place first.Makes it a little easier to install starter.
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By DANIEL TINDER - 15 Years Ago
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While gluing seal in place first likely a necessary step, still doesn't solve the problem. It takes a lot of force to position the starter against the new/oversized rubber, and still wiggle it enough to start the bolts. I'm surprised anyone who has a fair-weather car ever bothers to install the seal (Ford dealer mechanic that changed the starter back in the 70s sure didn't).
Also, should have checked the heads of the bolts. I have a tendency to call anything gold-colored, "brass". It's likely they are zinc-alloy plated grade 8?
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By aussiebill - 15 Years Ago
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Daniel, why make things so complicated? there would be more cars Not running the rubber seal at starter without detriment! To make life a little easier, cut the top bolt a little shorter, i have no problems using 3/8" drive socket and extension which fits nicely above starter and block, and as for brass bolts? what can i say! Just use bolts as Ted points out.
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By GREENBIRD56 - 15 Years Ago
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Daniel - the Grade 5 capscrews will do the job and have a bit of a factor of safety - but the "plain" head or "A 307's" (my guys call them butter bolts) are way too soft. The "factor of safety" - comparison of their internal stress to "proof load" would be close to "1.0" - meaning no margin for error.
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By DANIEL TINDER - 15 Years Ago
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Ah yes, it's a learning process. I assume the seal was originally designed to keep dirt/water out of the Bendix drive, as it has a tendency to collect oil from mainshaft/rear seal leaks. Since I drive about 8K a year in all weather (though I avoid snow), I just thought the seal might be needed. I see now that pulling the starter occasionally to clean the drive with kerosene would be a lot less trouble than installing the seal!
As for the bolts, if they ARE grade 8 (overkill or not), I don't see any advantage in replacing them. If grade 5 torque is used, threads in bellhousing wouldn't be compromised?
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By Ted - 15 Years Ago
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DANIEL TINDER (4/13/2010)
......As for the bolts, if they ARE grade 8 (overkill or not), I don't see any advantage in replacing them. If grade 5 torque is used, threads in bellhousing wouldn't be compromised?No.
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By PF Arcand - 15 Years Ago
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What appears to be Brass bolts are likely Cadmium plated. It has a gold look to it. Some high grade bolts made by a company like Fedalloy are Cad plated. In any case it's unlikely the bolts u have there are just brass. There is an outside chance they are silicon-bronze bolts, which are sometimes used in electrical work or where corrosion is a major problem. Anyway,they can be used just like a grade 5 bolt...
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