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By ronsplace - 15 Years Ago
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Hi: I have a 1956 Fairlane Club Sedan and I very much like the looks of my stock instruments (grey with brushed aluminum centers), but I dislike the idiot lights (Oil/Gen) and the non-numerical temp gauge. So here's the question: has anyone figured out a way to convert the Oil/Gen/Temp gauges to specific-read gauges while maintaining the grey color and brushed aluminum centers? I have an extra set of gauges, so I'm able to experiment. On the other hand, I'm sure that this has been done successfully before by someone on this great forum who would hopefully share the technique with me. Any and all suggestions will be welcomed and appreciated. Many thanks, Ron.
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By rgrove - 15 Years Ago
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I found a tach that was the right sizw (2-1/8"?) And put tbhat there. I then wired oil/temp/volt gauges on a panel under the dash that retracts/flips up at shows so no one can see it. Also have the facplate for an alpine stereo on same cluster.
As for the look, the tach I found id black w/ white markings and a chrome trim ring. Not an exact match, but after 4 years of shows nobody has ever noticed it, including guys w tbirds and fairlanes, etc....fwiw
I allso have seen some cos on web that will do custom gauge faces, but I've never contacted them about a tach etc
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By charliemccraney - 15 Years Ago
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You'll probably be the first to do something like that on here. There are companies who can convert them. Classic Instruments is one, but plan on spending $2500 or so.
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By crenwelge - 15 Years Ago
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I drove a 56 Ford 400,000 miles when it was just an old car, not a classic. I put a manual oil gauge where the clock goes. The temp gauge is normally at 12 o'clock and I didn't really care what the exact temp was and if the generator isn't charging, the lights will go dim in a hurry. I had a Sun tach mounted in a bullet shaped bezel on top of the dash next to the radio speaker. I didn't think it looked all that bad.
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By ronsplace - 15 Years Ago
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That sounds like a nice set-up. I was going to replace the clock to make room for the oil pressure gauge, also. As to the tach, I've been thinking of a mount on the steering column. Probably have to fabricate something out of aluminum stock to position it correctly, but shouldn't be too difficult (famous last words). Unlike you, I'm a little paranoid about my engine temperature. My gauge always runs past straight-up, usually settling in about 2/3s of the way to the right. If it's a really hot day and I'm trying to inch my way out of a car show in a slow-moving line, it'll start inching over to the right some more and that's when I'd really like to monitor it more closely, something I just can't do with the stock gauge. Ron
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By slumlord444 - 15 Years Ago
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Had a '56 Victoria a long time back. Was actualy my first wifes car that she had when we got married. Come to think about it, the car was the best thing about her. Installed a '57 T-Bird tach drive distributor and put the T-Bird tach where the clock had been. Looked neat and worked great. Only problem was it only goes to 5,000 rpm. Had 292 with '57 312 4 barrel intake and carb. Had '56 heads on it but still ran prety good. Had 3 on the floor and '60 T-Bird bucket seats. Wish I had that car back today in the shape it was in when I sold it in '68 or '69. Don't want the ex wife back though!
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By ronsplace - 15 Years Ago
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I had no idea there were tachs out there that would fit in the clock hole. Now, how to find a vintage T-bird tach, and will 5k be tall enough? Ron
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By slumlord444 - 15 Years Ago
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Need to find one out of '57 T-Bird. Not going to be cheap. Prices were a lot cheaper in 1967-68.
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By crenwelge - 15 Years Ago
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I always had an oil gauge in the clock hole, but I had always thought of putting a water temp gauge in the the hole that has the idiot lights and then putting the idiot lights under the speedo to kind of match the turn indicators above the speedo. Back when I accepted challenges on country road quarter miles, I preferred to have the tach on the top of the dash. Mounting one on the steering column requires the driver to take his eyes off the road to look at the tach. And I still think the bullet shaped cups for Sun tachs look pretty cool on top of the dash. I see them on eBay all the time, but they ain't cheap.
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By kcblueoval - 15 Years Ago
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I have a '56 Ford Vicky and have been studying this issue for awhile now. I have been looking at the Auto Meter Gauges (American Muscle) and the Classic Instrument (All American series) gauges. They are both very similar. I like the 5" speedo/tach combo and then use the 2-1/16 oil, temp, fuel, & Volt gauges. They are not exactly like the stock gauges but are close. I like the 5" speedo/tach combo. The Auto Meter speedo goes to 120 MPH and the Classic goes to 140 MPH. I think the 120 is plenty fast enough. Plus it will let the 60 MPH range be in the middle of the sweep range. Closer to what is stock and realistic... The sets are not cheap but they are cheaper than having your stock set rebuilt. Is it a Street Rod or a Concours d'elgance classic? I voted Street Rod for my ride. It is my ride after all... Good luck in your search. 
KC Blue Oval
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By Ol'ford nut - 15 Years Ago
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I took all the stock gauges out of my 56 Fairlane and replaced them with Stewart Warner oil, temp, fuel and volt gauges. I used the stock chrome ring that is around the stock gauges on the SW. Along with modern sending units I think it looks great and they are trustworthy. Hooked the light right up like the stock ones so the dim right along with the rest of the dash.
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By MoonShadow - 15 Years Ago
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I've actually done both. Using the chrome rings from the stock gauges provides a base for regular gauges (I used Stewart Warner). I've set up another dash with the Autometer gauges. They have a larger base circle and required the gauge holes to be cut larger. I had this done by a machine shop to make sure they were even. I'm still using the stock speedometer though. Either way gives you modern gauges without much modification. And looks good. Chuck in NH
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By YellowWing - 15 Years Ago
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kcblueoval (7/7/2010)
I have a '56 Ford Vicky and have been studying this issue for awhile now. I have been looking at the Auto Meter Gauges (American Muscle) and the Classic Instrument (All American series) gauges. They are both very similar. I like the 5" speedo/tach combo and then use the 2-1/16 oil, temp, fuel, & Volt gauges. They are not exactly like the stock gauges but are close. I like the 5" speedo/tach combo. The Auto Meter speedo goes to 120 MPH and the Classic goes to 140 MPH. I think the 120 is plenty fast enough. Plus it will let the 60 MPH range be in the middle of the sweep range. Closer to what is stock and realistic... The sets are not cheap but they are cheaper than having your stock set rebuilt. Is it a Street Rod or a Concours d'elgance classic? I voted Street Rod for my ride. It is my ride after all... Good luck in your search. KC Blue Oval I am doing this conversion right now. It is not complete but I will post photos tomorrow. Mike
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By ronsplace - 15 Years Ago
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Mine's a street rod, also. If you've done the gauge swap, any chance of getting a picture of the results? Thanks, Ron
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By YellowWing - 15 Years Ago
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Here is a picture of my new dash. Still needs paint etc but looks pretty good already. Gauges are Classic Instruments. Mike 
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By kcblueoval - 15 Years Ago
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Your gauges and dash look great. Did you used the 2-1/8" gauges with the original chrome rings? It's hard to see if you used the original chrome rings. The stock openings are almost 2-5/8" in diameter without the chrome rings. I said almost, not big enough for the 2-5/8" gauges to slide in. Like an earlier post to this chain someone else I think used the 2-5/8" gauges. What diameter is the speedometer 4-5/8 or 5"?
Great job. Please, give us more info.
kcblueoval
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By Y block Billy - 15 Years Ago
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Just a note, I have heard of people with guages ruin motors because they weren't paying attention to them. When an idiot light comes on it gets your attention and has saved me a motor before. I would always keep the idiot lights but if you want guages install them separately.
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By charliemccraney - 15 Years Ago
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The lights definitely have their benefits. Something a light doesn't do is let you know if you can get home or if you need to call the tow truck.
I would like to make some kind of controller that works in conjunction with my gauges that sets off a buzzer if any one of them gets into a pre determined "danger zone." That will get my attention so I can check the gauges and see what's going on. Lights don't always work for me on a bright day.
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By YellowWing - 15 Years Ago
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The gauges are all new Classic Instruments, 5" speedo and 21/8" for the rest. Here is a link http://www.classicinstruments.com/gaugeselector.aspx?ProductCode=AT54SLC&SeriesCode=AT Panel has now been painted and I should have gauges installed by next week. Will post pictures when done. Mike
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By kcblueoval - 15 Years Ago
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I know that Classic Instruments uses different fuel gauges depending on the Ohm reading from your fuel tank sending unit. Did you specify what Ohm range you wanted or did you get a new sending unit? Which gauge (model number) did you order and does it work correctly with your stock sending unit?
Thanks,
kcblueoval
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By YellowWing - 15 Years Ago
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I got a complete set of gauges which were supposed to be for Ford however. Temp sender was a 3/8 pipe and the Y uses a 1/4. Gauge sets include a new fuel sender but the hole pattern is different than the old ford pattern. This was solved by getting a adapter from Classic. The good thing about the new sender is it's the same ohm and pattern as all marine senders and most auto as well. Since I work at a boat shop replacements if ever needed will be easy. Mike
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