|
By lrs30 - 15 Years Ago
|
Not sure if I need an intro but will do it here.. From Northern KY still here, own a 31 5 window and a newly purchased 64 F-100 short box.. This truck is real nice, was a body man resto.. Meaning that the body and fit and finish is super nice, but needs to have some TLC done in the running department.. When I got it it seemed to idle high, I backed it down some, but not where it seems like it needs to be by ear.Need to put my meter on it just have not had the time yet.. It seems to surge and sputter at idle.. Almost like an vacume leak, but have yet to detect any leaks.. It has new plug wires, and plugs, the cap seems new aswell. I put a timing light on it last night and with the dial set at zero it was showing between 10 to 15 on the balancer at what its idleing at now.. I know its damn near impossible to diagnose over the net but was hoping someone could shed some light on where would be a good place to start my tunning... Oh by the way this is my first Y block.. Been a SBC guy my whole life...sorry 
|
|
By Flying Jester - 15 Years Ago
|
We will forgive your detroit transgressions  I kid, my daily drivers are a 78 Nova, and a 2.8 GM V6 84 Jeep Cherokee.The idle should be around 600-700, and I have a 256 and built 292 that both sputter just a little at that speed...I think it might have something to with the fact that the engines are older than my grandfather, and that the newest aftermarket parts are usually older than I am. That is to say, it sputters a little bit all the time, and ticks (sounds like a valve is loose) just a little bit no matter what. Like my grandaddy used to say "If you sat in a field for ten years, you wouldn't look as good as that car!"
|
|
By lrs30 - 15 Years Ago
|
|
Shoot, I am 40 have had 4 back surgeries and have 6 screws and 2 rod's in my spine have had both shoulders re-done, one by a quack and the other by the Bengals football team dr., and my right elbow by the same quack that did my first shoulder surgery and I run like a well oiled machine... OK I walk and get sweaty doing just that..lol I am gonna try to start from the top and work my way down so to speak with this thing, I am curious about an air fuel mixture on the factory 2 barrel, to be honest I have not dug to deep other than the basic looking for the obvious, and sticking a timing light on it.... STUPId QUESTION here but my service manual has not shown up yet, what is the best way to adjust the lifters and the specs on them, or should Ileave well enough alone.. I guess what I am asking is what are the specs... Thanks Ryan
|
|
By Hoosier Hurricane - 15 Years Ago
|
|
We are going to assume it has the stock factory cam, in which case the clearance should be .019. Hot or cold doesn't make enough difference to matter. They are solid lifters, not hydraulic. If they are too tight, it affects smoothness of operation. Too loose, they are noisy.
|
|
By lrs30 - 15 Years Ago
|
|
As far as I know it is all stock still has the factory cross-over which has since developed a pin hole.... Guess i have to break out the welder untill I can find a decent set of headers for cheap..lol Like anything is cheap anymore...
|
|
By stuey - 15 Years Ago
|
|
hi there where is the pin hole? don't go welding the slip joint in the cross over tube its there to allow expansion/contraction and watch out for the darn thing i've burnt my arms on it a couple of times stuey
|
|
By lrs30 - 15 Years Ago
|
|
Its in the elbow on the left bank.. I put a S.S. hose clamp over it for now... WORKS..lol I did a little playing with it yesterday, I notice the bung in front of the carb, has a PCV valve screwed into it it was loose so I pulled the carb, tightened up the bung hung the carb adjusted the air/fuel mixture screws and was running great!, I went to pick up my son, and all the sudden the IDLE was sky rocketing I need to get back out there to see whats up probably something easy. But my damn back is killing me today so its gonna have to wait till MONDAY!
|
|
By lrs30 - 15 Years Ago
|
|
It was the accelerator pum rod was bent from pulling the carb, got that under control, but when I put the timing light back on it I knoticed that its at about 25 degreesadvanced at idle... Seems a little off to me atleast by ear anyway,, Atill waiting for a manual to come in the snail mail, what is a good base for timing this thing? I got it to idle still fluctuates a little I have not found any vacume leaks since I tightened the PCV bung... Any hel would be great Ryan
|
|
By Ted - 15 Years Ago
|
|
Those half a century old dampers are notorious for the damper rings slipping and in turn throwing the timing marks off. You’ll need to verify the damper timing marks before getting too involved with some serious tuning with a light. Here’s a past thread that gives some information on determing if you have a ‘slipped’ damper. http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic9059-3-1.aspx Performing a search on this site will bring up other past discussions on the topic.
|
|
By lrs30 - 15 Years Ago
|
|
TED, thanks for the info, I did do a search but never thought about the damper slippage issue.. This truck has been restored (not frame off mind you) and the motor was re-manufactured by a company cal FRED JONES out of OKlahoma, who was at the time a authorized FORD RE_MAN FACILITY or so the re-man tag says..lol It runs great no smoke, its a bit tempermental when coming to a stop she is wanting to stall, I'm thinging that the all my problems are steming from a faulty carb, it surges at idle, the idle will increase at times.. Just alot of carb issues... Or so I think...
|
|