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By easyissy - 15 Years Ago
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I installed the Ford 2x4 intake and a pair of Edelbrock 500cfm carbs on my '58 Fairlane with a 292. The throttle bellcrank no longer fits do I replace it with a throttle cable? If so, what about the trans kickdown on my Fordomatic? Can I replace the kickdown rod for a cable as well? Sorry if these sound like dumb questions by I'm a novice mechanic. All help is greatly appreciated.
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By Ted - 15 Years Ago
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If you’re talking about the T-Bird bellcrank that is bolted between the carbs, that shouldn’t be needed unless the carbs are being installed facing to the back. From the factory, the carbs faced forward on the cars and backwards on the Thunderbirds. I'm also assuming you've modified the valley pan for the Ford 2X4 intake as those fit lower than the stock intakes. If you’re talking about the bellcrank on the firewall or the kickdown linkage that bolts to the intake, then assuming the intake has the capability of bolting the kickdown linkage to it, fabricating a new carburetor rod from the kickdown linkage to the twin carb connecting link would be the simple fix. A simple progressive throttle rod connecting the two carbs on the drivers side should be adequate and then you can hook either the solid link from the kickdown linkage to that. If both carbs are working together, then hooking up the throttle linkage to the rear carb would also be an option but I would opt to have a longer link that would hook up somewhere in the center of the connecting carb link. Other site members have posted on how to hook up cable linkage for the automatics so perform a search for that.
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By easyissy - 15 Years Ago
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Thanks Ted. I was referring to the bellcrank that mounts to the manifold. Now that I have two carbs the bellcrank will no longer mount in the same position because it hits the rear carb. I tried moving it back to allow for extra room but it seems that I don't have enough travel. Here's what I plan to do, tell me if it'll work. I 'll purchase the universal bellcrank from Mr.Gasket that way I can still utilize the existing kickdown rod. Then I plan on replacing the gas pedal rod with a cable type system that would pull the Mr. Gasket bellcrank and thus move the kickdown at the same time. Will this work????
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By Rono - 15 Years Ago
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Easyissy; I also have a pair of Edlbrock 500 cfm(#1404) carbs on my '56 Customline. However, I'm running a manual transmission and an Edlebrock #257 dual Quad intake with "trans-dapt" adapter plates. I am assuming that you want to retain the original gas pedal, but if you dont, Lokar makes very nice cable pull gas pedals that are easy to set-up and automatic kick-down set-ups too for your automatic trans. Rono
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By easyissy - 15 Years Ago
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Thanks Rono for the ideas. Is this what you're using? (Lokar) Could you post pics of your set-up? Please It's kinda hard with that damn bellcrank in the way.
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By Rono - 15 Years Ago
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Yes, I'm using the cable pull type gas pedal set-up on my '56 Customline. This set-up uses a "bulkhead" type grommet to run the cable through the firewall from the pedal assembly. You get rid of the bell crank all together. With the Edlebrock carb throttle linkage on the left hand side it's easy to set up. I'm also running progressive linkage between the carbs. I don't have any close-up pictures on hand, but I'll take some tomorrow and (try to) post them. Rono
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By easyissy - 15 Years Ago
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Photos would help alot and any tuning tips you could give me on adjusting these carbs would be greatly appreciated. The only thing is with your manual transmission it does'nt really help me much with my kickdown problem. But I think that universal bellcrank from Mr.Gasket might be my solution. Thanks to all for your help.
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By easyissy - 15 Years Ago
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Did you have to change anything out? (jets, rods,springs) Which ones did you use?? Any info would be great.
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By Rono - 15 Years Ago
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Here are a couple of pics of my throttle linkage set-up. As far as tuning the dual quads goes, I had the engine dynoed and the car adjustments were done at that time. Th ey had to spend quite a bit of time changing the metering rods and jets, but I would recommend spending the money and having that done. It will save you alot of headaches. 
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By easyissy - 15 Years Ago
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Thanks Rono for all the info it's greatly appreciated. This is gonna save me a lot of time. About having it dynoed and adjusted, how much did somthing like that cost?? I'm on a budget but I'm willing to spend the money to avoid any headaches. Where did you take it?? A Speed Shop???
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By Rono - 15 Years Ago
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There are basically 2 general types of dyno testing; Engine Dyno and Chassis Dyno. Ted and others on this forum can provide you with alot more detail than I can. I had my motor engine dynoed when I was building the car in Boise, Idaho at Performance Solutions (on State Street). With the motor out of the car, the numbers you will get for HP and torque will be at the flywheel. With the engine out of the car, set-up time will take longer than with a chassis dyno, but I believe either can get your carbs and timing dialed in with maximum performance. Be prepared to pay a few hundred bucks, but it will save you many backbreaking hours bent over your fender trying to accomplish the same thing. Just my two cents worth Rono
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By easyissy - 15 Years Ago
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Here's an update on my dual quad throttle setup. I have to put a lot of pressure in order for the throttle to move. Not sure why? Seems to move freely by hand but when I hook it up to the carb and press down with my foot It's kinda hard to push. Could my cable be not lined up properly or is the s-curve in the cable making it bind. Did anyone else have a problem with binding??? Here's some pics. 
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By Rono - 15 Years Ago
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Sounds like there is binding somewhere. Disconnect the cable from the pedal assembly and make sure the pedal assembly moves freely. If it does, the binding is most likely in the cable. It may be too long. Rono
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By easyissy - 15 Years Ago
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Thanks Rono. The pedal moved fine and the cable moved fine but when I connect them its kinda hard. Now that I think of it the ferrule in the firewall could be angled. I'll start there.
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By charliemccraney - 15 Years Ago
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If it's fine with the cable disconnected from the carburetors, then I'd look elsewhere.
With the cable disconnected from the carbs, how does the carburetor linkage feel? Might the return spring simply be too strong?
The cable appears to be on an incline from the sheathing to the throttle lever. If that angle is sharp enough it will make it difficult to start opening the throttle because it gets to a point where you're trying to pull it through the pivot more than around the pivot.
Are the carburetor butterflies hitting the intake or spacer/adapter bores?
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By easyissy - 15 Years Ago
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Should the cable be in a straight line to the carb? I think it might be inclined as you suggest. Maybe I could rasie the bracket to align the carb linkage to the cable ferrule.
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By charliemccraney - 15 Years Ago
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I don't think it has to be perfectly straight. I haven't thought about this much before. I think you want the cable to be positioned in the bracket so that it is no higher than the hole in the throttle lever when it is wide open. If it is higher than that, the geometry of the system will prevent wide open throttle. If it's higher, then the cable will reach a point where it is perpendicular to a tangent of the arc (that is that the hole for the cable in the lever, and the throttle axle - the center of the arc - are directly in line with the cable), at which point the only way to open the throttle further is to change direction and push it. Does that make sense?
Simple answer, hold the throttle wide open and make sure that the cable is at least level, though a slight incline is probably better... I think.
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By easyissy - 15 Years Ago
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Thanks for all the suggestions. I still think it might be the angle of the ferrule in the firewall which is creating that 'bind'. I'm gonna try to straighten the angle out maybe with some shims or something and check the alignment at the carb as well. I'll keep you all posted.
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By Philo - 15 Years Ago
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It looks to me like you simply need more leverage at the pedal. Either shorten the rod above the fulcrum and move the fulcrum up, or lenghten the the pedal rod. I think that'll do it!
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By easyissy - 15 Years Ago
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The lever at the pedal has 3 holes to attach the throttle cable to. I used the top hole should I be using the hole closest to the fulcum to create more leverage???
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By charliemccraney - 15 Years Ago
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Make certain that nothing is binding. If everything seems ok, try another hole. Keep in mind that more leverage = more pedal travel so you may be limited.
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By easyissy - 15 Years Ago
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I checked everything and took some WD-40 to everything which helped a little. What I think is happening is the pedal feels like it takes more pressure than before because of the size of the new pedal. The original pedal was the floor mount type in which you put your whole foot on it to press down. Now I have that spoon type which only uses the ball of your foot. Could the minimal contact pressure create that feeling of being harder to push? It's the only thing I can think of. I might switch it out for the Lokar Eliminator pedal which is more like the original. What do you guys think??? Original ('58 Ford Fairlane) 
What I'm Currently Using (Spoon) 
Lokar Eliminator 
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By Ol'ford nut - 15 Years Ago
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Have you tried a different return spring arrangement? In your picture it looks like you have two springs. Problem could be spring rate.
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By easyissy - 15 Years Ago
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The reason for the 2 springs is because of my progressive set-up. 1 spring per carb.
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By charliemccraney - 15 Years Ago
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If you've made certain that nothing is binding and tried all of the positions for the cable with that pedal, then a pedal which provides more leverage is the answer. It doesn't matter what style as long as you get more leverage.
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