|
By f-fun2 - 15 Years Ago
|
|
Hey guys, back again with another issue, this time it's the carb. I have a 272 with the Holley-built 2 barrel. My old carb was leaking from where the throttle linkage went into the carburetor(or so it appeared), so instead of messing around with a rebuild kit, I found another one on Ebay(rebuilt). It bolted right on and started right up, but today when I went to start it again, I noticed it leaking in what appeared to be the exact same place! I though to myself " you've got to be kidding". I know there are some idle fuel mixture screws on the back and after adjusting these(they were all the way out) and adusting the idle screw it seemed to stop(for now). Could it be it is getting too much fuel and over running the float? I have the stock mechanical fuel pump, but I did install an aftermarket glass inline fuel filter. Seems to me this wouldn't affect anything though. Any help would be appreciated, I'm tired of tinkering and want to start driving!
|
|
By Rono - 15 Years Ago
|
|
F-Fun2; I also had a '56 F-100 with the stock 2bbl. holley. Never could get the original carb to perform right. Bought a new, 500 CFM 2 bbl Holley from Summit racing http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-0-4412S/ and never had any more problems. That new carb made a huge difference in performance, although Iam not a big fan of the holley power valves. Could be that the "rebuilt"carb you bought on Ebay was having the same issues for it's owner as you had. Just my 2 cents worth Rono
|
|
By oldcarmark - 15 Years Ago
|
|
Before you give up on this one you might want to check the float level first.The add ons you made should not affect the carb.Did you replace the fuel pump?Sometimes excessive fuel pump pressure will overwhelm the needle and seat.I dont know if the Holley 2 bbls are like the Holley 4bbl but the 4bbl dont like too much pressure.5-6 pounds is good.If you turn the mixture screws in slowly at idle does the motor quit?It should if its working right.
|
|
By f-fun2 - 15 Years Ago
|
|
Thanks, do you think it could be a power valve problem?
|
|
By f-fun2 - 15 Years Ago
|
|
Will the Holley 2300 bolt right on or do I need an adapter as I have the 3 bolt manifold configuration.
|
|
By oldcarmark - 15 Years Ago
|
|
To test for power valve leeking turn the idle mix screws in.If it keeps running you may have a power valve proble.Should quit when screws are turned in.
|
|
By Grizzly - 15 Years Ago
|
|
f-fun2, I'd check the float level. If the mixture screws were'nt near spec who knows what else was checked. Float level should be checked and adjusted each time needle and seat are replaced. A good way to check float levels is with a drill bit of the required dia. Float hieght is measured between the float and carb body. Sorry I can't remember the spec. Using the later two barrel carb with four bolts best use a later 57 and up manifold they are cheap ($20) and relatively easy to get. Then you can use a 350-500 holley. You will have to do some linkage modifications and use a later dizzy. 
|
|
By f-fun2 - 15 Years Ago
|
|
I think the first thing I will do is replace the fuel pump. This truck sat for a long time and from what I've read, fuel pumps can actually pump too much or too little fuel when the start to go bad. I need to mention that it also died on me when doing a test drive. After coasting to a stop I saw no fuel in clear filter at all, however, it did start back up after closing choke all the way, and I was able to limp it back home. When I started it later, I noticed the leaking problem. I know the fuel pump has to be worn(like everything else!).
|
|
By oldcarmark - 15 Years Ago
|
|
There is a clue right there.If the truck has sat for a long time there is probably a lot of crud in the fuel tank and line.Is the fuel fresh?Probably what is happening is the needle and seat are getting stuck open and flooding the carb.You need to go through the tank and lines and clean it out.Putting a new pump on is a good idea also.
|
|
By mctim64 - 15 Years Ago
|
f-fun2 Where are you located? If you would like to go with the later style manifold (and dizzy) I'd be happy to give you one, the manifold that is. Got a stack of them, just pay the shipping. 
|
|
By f-fun2 - 15 Years Ago
|
|
Tim, that's a generous offer. I am in Florida zip 34237. If you could do it that would be great. I would want to give you something more than shipping for your trouble though. Let me know a figure and we can go from there.
|
|
By f-fun2 - 15 Years Ago
|
|
I am seeing some black crud in the filter, I guess the best thing is to drain the fuel tank and clean it out. What is the best way to clean these tanks?
|
|
By Rono - 15 Years Ago
|
|
To really clean the tank, what I've done in the past is to drain it the best you can and then pull it out of the truck. Take it to a radiator shop for cleaning. There are some companies that make a fuel tank coating if you or the shop think it needs it. I think the Eastwood Company and POR-15 both make fuel tank sealing kits. If the tank is badly rusted, you may want to consider replacing that too. Rono.
|
|
By oldcarmark - 15 Years Ago
|
|
The fact that you are seeing crud in the filter is again likely the reason why the carb is acting up.Crud gets into the inlet needle and it cant control fuel bowl level.You may also need to replace the steel line from tank to carb as it may be corroded inside.By the way ifyou do drain and remove tank please be careful.An empty tank is worse than a full one as the fumes are extremley flammable.
|
|
By f-fun2 - 15 Years Ago
|
|
Well, in doing some checking, I was able to find a new fuel tank from LMC for about 200.00, and a new fuel pump for 50.00. The fuel tank cleaning and sealing kit would end up costing at least 75.00 itself, plus all the mess and hassle of doing the job. I've even seen videos of people putting rocks in the tank and chains to loosen up the crud. Does not look fun. I'm getting too old for that crap, so I'm going with the new tank and pump.
|
|
By oldcarmark - 15 Years Ago
|
|
Sounds like a plan.Good way to go.
|
|
By f-fun2 - 15 Years Ago
|
|
Well, I got the new fuel tank installed and fuel pump installed, blew out old fuel line with compressed air, installed new fuel filter, put gas in tank and it started up and seemed to run fine until today when I tried going up the street and it stalled out on me. Looked under the hood and gas was again pouring from the carb. Waited a little while and it started back up, got it back to the house and let it run awhile with no flooding. Took it down the road again a couple of times and ran fine. Could it be I still have crud floating in the carb bowl or is it a float problem? I'm not looking forward to taking the carb apart, is there any way to clean without disassembly? The carb has been rebuilt, but my biggest mistake was running it with that 50 year old fuel tank I guess.
|
|
By Ol'ford nut - 15 Years Ago
|
|
Sorry, no. You have to pull it apart to clean out float bowl and blow air through. If it was a fresh rebuild you should be able to reuse all the parts.
|
|
By oldcarmark - 15 Years Ago
|
|
You could have crud inside the float bowl which is floating around jamming up the needle and seat.Also a good opportunity to check the float level.
|
|
By f-fun2 - 15 Years Ago
|
|
Well, I ran it yesterday around the nieghborhood and no problems. Today I went a little further(still staying on the backroads, though) and actually stopped at the gas station, put gas in and left, drove around a little further and seems to be running fine. Of course, when I get back I check to make sure nothing is leaking. Maybe soon I will have the courage to actually get in trafffic and stop at a (gasp) red light! I know you guys have probably all been there too, thanks for the help.
|
|
By oldcarmark - 15 Years Ago
|
|
Been there!Done that! The more you drive it the better it should run!Many times leaks are from overtightening fittings etc.
|