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By Kahuna - 15 Years Ago
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Hi Gents I'm looking for any information that someone might have re power valves in the 1956 Ford teapots. The carbs I'm using have a #28 on them, but that number is totally meaningess to me. I also have a carb with a 50's something power valve. Again, no idea what that refers to. Anyone have any info? The carbs I'm using are list 1161 Thanks Jim
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By Ted - 15 Years Ago
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The 55-57 Ford parts catalogue only lists one power valve diaphram part number for the single quad Teapot Holleys. Remain cognizant that the power valve on the model 4000 Holley carbs attaches to the underside of main body top cover with the two secondary jets and one screw. This is not to be confused with the anti-spark valve that looks like the newer style of Holley power valves and screws into the outside of the carb body on the passenger side. The anti-spark valve is part of a vacuum circuit and helps to control the amount of venturi vacuum signal that ultimately goes to the distributor.
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By Kahuna - 15 Years Ago
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Hi Ted Yes, I'm aware of the power valve actuator, but wondered if the valve that is actually moved below that (opens and closes) and lets fuel thru had different values? Make sense? Thanks Jim PS If only one is listed, then that'll have to do
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By Hoosier Hurricane - 15 Years Ago
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Jim: On your other post, you stated that the engine runs great with the teapots. What does it matter what number is on the PV?
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By marvh - 15 Years Ago
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Hi:
Power valves on a teapot are very different looking from the later Holley power valves, do not have a diaphragm, are solid brass instead of the large nut with an exposed diaphragm as later Holleys. The valve is operated by the economizer diaphragm assembly which is that long spring thingy that attaches to the top cover with one screw and two tubes. It is very important to have a leak proof seal on the top cover under the air cleaner bolt in or a vacuum leak will occur and the economizer spring will push the power valve open causing a rich condition as well very poor fuel economy.
The number 28 on the power valve means the diameter of the drilled orifice on the power valve as 0.028". This drilled orifice is on the side of the power valve between the threads and base. The #28's have one drilled hole in the side, larger power valves usually have two holes. I guess they measure the cross sectional area to get the size needed such as the #43 used in the 55 Power pack engines with teapot.
The #28 power valve is correct for a 56 Ford with 292 or 312 engine. The larger the number on the valve the larger the orifice and more area for fuel to flow through.
Power valves are (now most likely were) available in various values. I have seen as small as #21's to as large as #46's.
marv
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By charliemccraney - 15 Years Ago
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marvh (10/1/2010)
It is very important to have a leak proof seal on the top cover under the air cleaner bolt in or a vacuum leak will occur and the economizer spring will push the power valve open causing a rich condition as well very poor fuel economy.
Informative video:
http://www.youtube.com/user/charliemccraney#p/u/4/ZtsxDAnmXX8
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By marvh - 15 Years Ago
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Interesting video. Many people do not know that problem with the vacuum leak. Very knowledgeable person there. Thanks Charlie.
here is some other links on this forum to discussions on tea pot problems.
http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic21001-6-1.aspx
http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic25447-3-1.aspx#bm25461
marv
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By Kahuna - 15 Years Ago
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Hoosier, as I mentioned, the engine does run great, but has only been run in in the chassis. I was just looking for more info to utilize later for tuning when the vehicle is on the road. Jim
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By Kahuna - 15 Years Ago
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Marvh Yes, that's the info I was after. Thanks. I don't think the valves are readily available these days, but it gives me an idea of what to look for later on, Jim
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By MG Cook - 15 Years Ago
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To get in on your post without starting another thread about the Model#4000, I'm having problems with mine dying when I come to a stop, I have searched the forums and I know a lot of guys are having problems with the 4000. Has anyone successfully changed the 4000 for another model carb, I've heard the Holly 600 can be adapted to the yblock. I checked with Pony and they want near $550,00 for a carb and if it's eventually going to have the same problems I can't see dropping that kind of money and still have problems later on when the carb gets some wear on it. I would appreciate anyones input on this.
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By Ted - 15 Years Ago
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Jim. Thanks for clarifying which part of the carb you were actually looking at. Most people just think of the diaphram or actuator as the power valve itself. I looked at some of the Teapot power valves sitting here and there was a #21, #32, and a #52 sitting loose. As you observed, the hole size in the smaller valves do indeed match up closely to the thousandts to the hole diameter in the side of the valve while the #52 had two holes essentially adding up to somewhere in the neighbor hood of two 0.026” diameter drills. Bigger the number, the more the fuel. Sounds like a good tuning tool if wanting to increase fuel mixture for acceleration purposes while trying to maintain the original jetting for economy purposes.
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By Ted - 15 Years Ago
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MG Cook (10/2/2010)
To get in on your post without starting another thread about the Model#4000, I'm having problems with mine dying when I come to a stop, I have searched the forums and I know a lot of guys are having problems with the 4000. Has anyone successfully changed the 4000 for another model carb, I've heard the Holly 600 can be adapted to the yblock. I checked with Pony and they want near $550,00 for a carb and if it's eventually going to have the same problems I can't see dropping that kind of money and still have problems later on when the carb gets some wear on it. I would appreciate anyones input on this. Using an appropriately sized later model carb to replace the Teapot by using an adapter on the “A” (Teapot) intakes works quite well as long as the distributor is upgraded to the later model distributor at the same time. Topend performance is compromised with the use of the adapter but normal driving around is not. Hooking up the newer model carb up to the original Load-O-Matic distributor typically has too much ignition advance at cruise while having no advance during hard acceleration. Drivability obviously suffers when not upgrading the distributor to match the carburetor.
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By suede57ford - 15 Years Ago
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If your car is dying after letting off the gas, add a dashpot like they used on the automatic trans carbs. I had to do this on my supercarged car. Once properly adjusted it works perfect and my car does not die after letting of the throttle quickly. I have to buy a fresh dashpot every so often to make sure they are working properly. I also reinforced the original style dashpot bracket as I could see it flex when I closed the throttle. I would like to try a larger number power valve for a in my car. I have it jetted rich to work well under boost, but my mileage has suffered. A larger valve may help me get it dialed in. If any one has a fairly large number teapot power valve they would sell, let me know.
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By marvh - 15 Years Ago
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I will look to see what power valves I have. What # are you using?
I have made my own larger number power valve by drilling the orifice hole larger or adding an additional hole like the higher numbered power valves have. I like to write the #size on the power valve with a scriber or etcher so one does not forget what it is now. I use a small numbered drill set to drill the holes.
marv
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By marvh - 15 Years Ago
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Pat:
I have #35, #37, #40 & #43 all are new
37 or 43's were used in the Lincoln ECU carbs.
#52 were used in the 52/53 Mercs
marv
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