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By montego_gto - 15 Years Ago
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Hi all, I did some searching and found some info on my y-block distributor. It is the early style I learned. One of the springs disintegrated at some point in the past due to rust. I want to replace them. I also figured out that not all springs are the same when looking at them from the length perspective. My MSD's springs are quite a bit shorter than what the Y's distributor uses. My later 60's Merc's distributor has shorter springs as well. Or is this spring thing just my imagination and they are all pretty close to the same? Does someone sell a kit for distributor springs for these early distributors? I want to do some experimenting with lighter and heavier spring combos like what I did with my 69's MSD distributor. Thanks everyone! Nick in WI The "slot" style upper rotor shaft (Autolite distributor) has a pair of openings that engage the flyweight pins - 
The slots in this one were arranged to provide 20° at the distributor and 40° at the crank. Stiff springs are the norm. 
The later arrangement (Motorcraft Distributor) has two notch openings that can be switched to alter the travel stops. The stamped "13L" and "18L" markings are indicative of the distirbutor degrees they allow. There are more than a few variants. I've got a "10L" and "15L" before too. 
This one has a 13° and an 18° - with the notch opening sizes shown. A 10L opening could be enlarged if you wanted - just takes a file.
 Steve Metzger Tucson, Arizona
Edited: Sunday, November 08, 2009 7:18 AM by AZ28 |
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By Ted - 15 Years Ago
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Mr. Gasket #925D springs are listed for the Ford distributors but I believe they are specific to the later model distributors. Someone correct me on this if I’m incorrect. As inexpensive as the Mr. Gasket spring kits are, then some of the other spring kits for other distributors might expand some of the options for tailoring the spring rates (ie. #925B and #928G).
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By Hoosier Hurricane - 15 Years Ago
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Nick: Reading your post, I got a feeling you are talking about the '54-'56 loadomatic distributor when you said "early". Does the distributor you are working on have centrifugal weights, or is it vacuum advance only?
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By montego_gto - 15 Years Ago
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 It has weights and a vacuum advance. It was installed on the 292 in my 1962 F100. I have no idea how original it is to the truck though. While searching sites for info on the springs, I came across the "early" reference numerous times when someone was describing this style distributor- the style with the slot upper rotor shaft. Nick
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By oldcarmark - 15 Years Ago
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Heres a question for you to consider.You can buy a rebuilt "late" distributor for $50.00 OR less.Application to ask for is 64F100 with 292.(last year used in N.America).Gives you fresh bushings,breaker plate,springs,points,condensor,primary wire, and a new adjustable vacuum advance to fine tune your timing curve..Much easier to "play" with these than the early style and you can use your existing cap and wires.Anyone on this site that has upgraded carbs from original has had to purchase a late style distributor(myself included).Just an idea to consider.
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By charliemccraney - 15 Years Ago
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What he has could be called the early version of the late distributor. More specifically, he has an Autolite, rather than a Motorcraft.
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By Talkwrench - 15 Years Ago
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Mark where do I find a reco dissy for $50 ! You have a link...?
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By oldcarmark - 15 Years Ago
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Autozone online shows price as $38.00 +$15.00 core.Napa much higher for exact same item from same supplier.Cardone #30-2808.I bought mine here in Canada and it was $100.00 with core.Who else has found a good price on these and where?
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By Talkwrench - 15 Years Ago
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I would need to buy one outright as it has to be shipped all the way to Oz. Bit hard doing the post both ways...
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By oldcarmark - 15 Years Ago
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Maybe one of the frequent flyers from Oz would pick one up for you.
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By charliemccraney - 15 Years Ago
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That would be interesting to get through airport security. TSA: "That looks like some sort of triggering device."
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By 'GB'ird - 15 Years Ago
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oldcarmark (11/16/2010)
Autozone online shows price as $38.00 +$15.00 core.Napa much higher for exact same item from same supplier.Cardone #30-2808.I bought mine here in Canada and it was $100.00 with core.Who else has found a good price on these and where?Bought mine from Rockauto (Cardone #302808) for $80 including $30 core. Shipping to the UK wasn't too pricey either if I remember, but didn't go for the core refund. Richard
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By ecode ragtop - 15 Years Ago
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I JUST GOT ONE FROM ADVANCE AUTO PARTS $43.00 PLUS $10.00 CORE CHARGE. IT WOULD TAKE ME LONGER TO DIG A CORE OUT OF THE SHED, THAN TO PAY THE $10.00 CORE CHARGE.. HOPE THIS HELPS TOM
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By Talkwrench - 15 Years Ago
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Bugger! Tom, they dont ship internationaly...
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By oldcarmark - 15 Years Ago
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Try Autozone.com
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By montego_gto - 15 Years Ago
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Hi everyone, Wow, I don't check back for a few days and there are two full pages of posts! Thanks for all the advice. I decided to just order one. I got one shipped from Rockauto along with a bunch of other parts. I still think I'm going to buy a spring kit and play with the advance once the engine is up and running. Thanks again, Nick
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By oldcarmark - 15 Years Ago
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Before you install it put the spring kit in.Its a little more tricky working the rear distributor in the car.Small parts can disappear pretty easily.The vacuum can you adjust on the car.I think you will be surprised at how much better it runs with a little fine tuning.There are several topics on this subject if you do a search or maybe someone will post the topics.
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By Talkwrench - 15 Years Ago
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Guys if I get one of these reco dissys I take it that the timing slots are hit and miss as to what you get? Mark did you use all the springs in the kit or did you mix and match old & new? Will it make any difference if I use the Petronix kit as to points to how the springs work or will it be close?
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By oldcarmark - 15 Years Ago
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The slots in the advance cam always come with 2 choices.Mine came with 13L and 18L(seems to be most common) which I used the 13L slot giving 26 degrees at the crank.If you dial in about 10 initial timing and set the vacuum can for 6-8 you end up with between 42-44 total advance which is about max timing you want.I used the 2 replacement springs together however you can always mix with one old one or even carefully bend the anchor posts through the breaker plate to custom setup the advance curve.The best way to setup the distributor is with one of the old Sun distributor machines if you can find an old tyme shop that still has one..Steve(Greenbird56) is a real wizard at setting up timing improvements and really understands the theory of what changes to make.There are also several good articles on the internet all about timing mods and theory.I never realized until recently that the vacuum advance comes back in when you reach cruising speed and engine vacuum is high again.Improving engine performance is NOT all cams and carbs and even a stock motor like mine benefitted from working on the distributor.One other thought.You should have ALL your total advance in by the time you get to your maximum operating RPM.Not much good if its not in until 3500 RPM and the most you run to is 3000 RPM.You should reallistically aim for all in by 2800 RPM or so.
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By tarheel - 15 Years Ago
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I bought one of the Cardon remanufctured distributors and a Mr Gasket advance spring kit. When I tore the distributor down to put in the springs, I found that the rebuilders had put in a mismatched set of springs. One looked correct but the other was much bigger in wire size and so long that the advance plate could only retract about half way. The shaft also had too much end play in the bushings (about 80/1,000s) so I put in a shim to bring it down to 30/1,000s. I'd suggest that anyone buying one of their distributors should check it closely before installation, but at $52 including shipping from Autozone, the price can't be beat.
Larry
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By oldcarmark - 15 Years Ago
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I had the same problem with endplay on mine.The timing would actually change as the shaft rode up and down.There is a shim kit to correct this as you mentioned.I believe the specs are 026-.050.The closer you get to minimum the more accurate the timing.There have been a couple of poor rebuilds reported with worn cams and endplay so you do need to have a look before you install it.The other thing to check is the distance from the shoulder on the body that sits against the block and the driving gear.It should be VERY close to the original measurement with all vertical freeplay at specs and compressed to remove ALL freeplay before measuring.Like everything else manufactured these days-theres always 1-2 defective ones.
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