|
By SteveF100239 - 15 Years Ago
|
|
Can anyone tell me why the intake manifold on my '55 239 looks like it is overheating in the middle ports on both sides? when I found the truck 4 years ago the original manifold had a hole about the size of a dime on the middle port of one side. After rebuilding the engine and installing a new (used, but new to me) intake, this one is discoloring really bad and has cooked the paint off both sides but only on the middle sections.
|
|
By Hoosier Hurricane - 15 Years Ago
|
|
That area typically burns paint, however if the exhaust heat riser valve, located between the manifold and crossover pipe, is stuck closed, the manifold will heat excessively.
|
|
By SteveF100239 - 15 Years Ago
|
|
Thanks, I was hoping it would be something simple (or normal). I plan to swap the cross-over pipe soon with a set of ram's horns so I can let the engine breathe easier. I will wait and repaint the intake then.
|
|
By MoonShadow - 15 Years Ago
|
|
Unless you drive your truck in extreme cold weather you can block the runner while the manifold is off. It's a simple matter of placing a piece of tin over the hole in the gaskets. That will block the heat from the intake center runner and keep the paint from burning. Its purpose is to provide heat at the base of the carb for cold weather operation. Chuck in NH
|
|
By charliemccraney - 15 Years Ago
|
|
The gaskets which restrict the passage should solve the problem. I wouldn't block it completely. Even here in Atlanta it can get cold enough to cause winter driveability issues.
|
|
By SteveF100239 - 15 Years Ago
|
|
She is VERY cold natured. I live in SC and if it is below 50 I have to her her warm up for a good 10 minutes before she wants to go anywhere. I see the spaces in the gaskets but did not know what they were for. This is the first Y that I've owned and have had it on the road for about three years now with no problems.
|
|
By charliemccraney - 15 Years Ago
|
A good aftermarket ignition goes a long way in the cold but it's not so easy on a '55. Mine's ready to go in no more than 5 minutes even in the 20s. I don't even use the choke. That is one of the most significant changes I noticed with the ignition upgrade. I try to keep it under 3000rpm until it's fully warmed up.
If you play with the tune, you may get it to be less cold natured.
|
|
By SteveF100239 - 15 Years Ago
|
|
I need to get me a tach so I can see what rpms I'm turning. On the highway she sounds like she is screaming. It's mostly original with the 239 having been bored .030 on the rebuild. The glove box states that the rearend is 3.92 but I haven't checked it out to make sure. I am the third owner and it supposedly had never been out of SC before I got it.
|
|
By PF Arcand - 15 Years Ago
|
|
A 3.92 will run the rev's up pretty good on the highway. Its truck gearing.
|
|
By SteveF100239 - 15 Years Ago
|
|
any info on what gears would be good for the highway and where they can be purchased would be greatly appreciated.
|
|
By MoonShadow - 15 Years Ago
|
|
Does your trannsmission have the "granny" low gear? You probably have a low geared truck tranny in there along with the rear end. Made to pull stumps! Do you want to stay stock or? A later trans and 9" rear end would make it normally driveable. Chuck in NH
|
|
By SteveF100239 - 15 Years Ago
|
|
not sure about the granny low, it is the stock three speed tranny it came with. I have had the truck loaded full with firewood and pulling a trailer full of firewood at the same time and it had no problems pulling off from a dead stop. first gear does grind a little when going into gear though, it may be close to needing some attention. As far as sticking to originality, don't hate me but I was at one time thinking of pulling the 302 and AOD out of my '89 ford and putting in my '55 but I couldn't bring myself to do it. I have been thinking along the lines of a T-5 but the least expensive route to lower rpms is the best right now.
|
|
By MoonShadow - 15 Years Ago
|
|
At least its a Ford! I would look around the local yards for a 9" rear end with a 3:20 or so ratio. If you have a choice get a posi unit. The pick up guys here should be able to tell you which vehicles are the easiest swap. Other than possible drive shaft mods it should be a bolt up. Chuck in NH
|
|
By SteveF100239 - 15 Years Ago
|
|
thanks for the info Chuck, I will post the question and see what I can find out. I hate to put too much strain on the engine at the higher rpms, but it is becoming my daily driver and I need it to run with the traffic on the interstate with ease.
|
|
By charliemccraney - 15 Years Ago
|
|
With stock gearing you're probably turning in the neighborhood of 3500-4000rpm at about 70mph. Do you plan to haul more wood and pull more trailers? If so, then I advise against changing the rear gears and biting the bullet to upgrade to an overdrive transmission or even tracking down an overdrive unit for your transmission..
|
|
By PF Arcand - 15 Years Ago
|
|
Steve: In the meantime, to reduce gear grinding, from neutral try putting it in 2nd then back into low. That often reduces the problem..
|
|
By SteveF100239 - 15 Years Ago
|
I only haul wood about twice a year as that gives me enough to last our family through the winter. I could use my 89 for that though (it just doesn't look as cool going down the road  ). I tried the second-to-first trick this morning on the way to work and it does make a difference. I am going to start with the rearend and see what kind of decrease in rpms that gives me and then look at the transmission after that. Not a whole lot to chose from here locally in SC that I have found.
|
|
By MoonShadow - 15 Years Ago
|
|
Check these sites: http://www.ford-trucks.com/article/idx/9/051/article/1953__1956_F100_Rear_End_Selection_and_Rear_Suspension_Lowering_.html http://www.kevinstang.com/Ninecase.htm http://www.mustangsandmore.com/ubb/FordRearDimensions.html I also just read on a search that 56-72 F100 rear ends are the same width. Check that out too. Once you determine the width you need check the local yards. Also look localy on EBAY and Graigslist. They are out there! Chuck in NH
|
|
By Hoosier Hurricane - 15 Years Ago
|
|
You need to keep an eye on wheel bolt patterns, or you end up with two different kinds of wheels, or have to redrill axles and drums. I know passenger rears for the most part have a smaller bolt circle than your older truck.
|
|
By SteveF100239 - 15 Years Ago
|
|
Thanks! I checked out those sites this afternoon and there is a lot of good info listed there. I know some of those models are in some of the salvage yards nearby and I can probably get them at a reasonable price for picking the parts myself. I will pay attention to the bolt patterns and make sure I can find 5 x 5.5. It would be nice to keep my rear and just change the gear. What rpm range is considered "normal" at 70mph? also, any words of wisdom for hooking up a tach to my truck? It was 6V but I have switched to a 12v generator out of an newer (64) ford truck. no alterantor (yet)
|